No Fuel = No Start Help Me Diagnose Please

Adam Dugger

Founding Member
Nov 15, 2000
584
1
18
Long Island, NY
Hi,
So I’m wondering if anyone can help me out with my 99GT. It’s a 4.6GT Auto with 58k miles. It’s all stock except for a MAC catback. It has been sitting in my garage for about 3 years… I know.. sad since it’s in excellent condition. Things happen in life… anyway.. I’m getting it ready to enjoy again.. last time it ran it had a miss and started leaking antifreeze in the front.. so I pulled the stock original 99 intake and replaced it with a FRPP M9424P46 intake with the alum crossover. The swap went quick and easy.. I put in a new thermostat, gasket, used the later alternator upper bracket, swapped new NGK plugs in, changed the oil, refilled the coolant and bought a new battery. Well, she didn’t start. The confirmed that the fuel pump is not priming and there is no pressure at the schrader valve. Key on I do get 12v at the fuel pump connector just behind the tank so I’m pretty sure the pump is bad. I ordered a stock 130lph fuel pump assembly and fuel filter to swap in.. that will be here by the end of the week.

So while I’m fairly sure the new pump will fix it, there is one weird thing that it’s doing. Now keep in mind that I checked continuity on every fuse both under the hood and under the dash. All are fine except one 20A fuse in position 6 listed as “Starter Motor Relay.” I replaced it and it made no difference but it has not blown again. Anyway, the digital odometer is blank when you first put the key on. Blank as in nothing. No dashes, the theft light is not flashing so I believe PATS is not an issue. Eventually the odometer will light back up.

Edit: I forgot to add that I ran codes with my scanner and none came up. I did spray carb and injector cleaner into the throttle body and it did start for a split second.

So does any of this sound familiar? Any ideas? Is the fuel pump to blame? Are these two different issues? Is the Earth round? Lol

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Adam
 
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+1 on above. Use a new fuel filler neck grommet when dropping the fuel tank. Gas vapors are hard on rubber parts.

The Odometer not coming on is a troubling symptom. It could mean there's a base power issue at the root of the problem. IF true then the non working fuel pump could be a symptom of the problem.

This could also be a bad ignition switch, disconnected ground or a bad CCRM. Or a problem in the cluster itself. Check the following thread regarding printed circuit (PC) foil trace repair.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/v6-tech/304608-my-odometer-goes-off.html#2657361

For a WAG, did you remove the battery during the work? There's a ground wire (black with white stripe) that goes around the battery. It's connected to a large round single pin connector. This is the CCRM and PCM ground. Check it to be certain it is solidly connected.

If still having a problem test for key on power to fuse F2.34, F2.2, and F2.8. (fuse panel F2 is in the driver's kick well). Use a KNOWN good ground. Where to test next depends upon which fuses have power or not. If there's power in all of the fuses this is useful information as it means the CCRM is supplying power to the PCM and the Motor's VPWR circuit.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271
 
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wmburns thank you for the help!!!

I went outside and turned the key on.. the cluster was working perfectly. I then removed the battery.. yes I had to replace the battery after the intake swap because the old one was stone dead.
I checked all of the connectors and ground wires.. all were okay. I put the battery back in and turned the key on and cluster was fine but no fuel pump.
I checked fuses 34, 2 and 8 and all had 12v. I really appreciate your input here.

What do you recommend that I do next? Fuel pump won't be here until Thursday.
Thank you,
Adam