Electrical No turnover. 2004 GT manual

Having this issue since last year. Has been to the dealership twice since last year. Had the neutral safety switch replaced and did fine until march of 2018. Then it started again. Only at different intervals. Might crank, might not crank. Next day it cranks. Just got it back Tuesday and it's doing ok, but what can be causing this? I have a feeling I will be stranded again. It will not do this while at the shop. I went ahead and had the "defender" anti theft control completely removed. Plus I had some other issues not related, all fixed. But since they had to unhook the battery everything seems fine now. Do I have a computer issue? When it 1st happened. I could pop the clutch real hard to make it crank. But I think I have a relay issue? Thanks for any help with this.
 
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FWIIW, the Ford Factory PATS system does not disable the starter. So IMO you do not have a computer problem.

Do you have a Volt-Ohm meter (VOM)? Even better. A test light? Are you willing to use them?

There are multiple ways to trouble shoot the starter and neutral safety circuit. It's best to consider this a process. Since this car has been to the dealership let's assume that some of the "easy" items of the NSS circuit have been tested. So let's start by confirming the ignition switch.

If this were my car and I was dealing with an intermittent electrical problem I would set up a test rig to allow easy monitoring or testing. Consider a getting a "add a circuit" installed in fuse F2.6. This will give you an easy way to test for power. Likely I would rig up a test light powered via the add a fuse pig tail and position inside the car where it's out of the way but can be seen.

Fuse F2.6 should be hot in the "crank" position. With the test light installed this gives an easy way to CONFIRM that the starter circuit is being powered when the key is turned to crank. What to do next depends upon the test result.

1999-2004 MY fuse panel schedule:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/for...r-swap-wont-fire-please-help.html#post2669271
 
I will keep this option open if I need to use it. Right now I have no cranking issues. And also since the battery cable reconnect, I had some dash lights that were fading, I couldn't even see my AC Knob at night. Now it's all back to normal. Maybe the reboot of the system fixed itself? I will keep posting my progress. I do appreciate your help.. Thanks, Rebel
 
ok. Update. Starting issue is ok now. But I had the battery light came on, then after a few miles went off. But now service engine light is on. Plus I have a weird noise coming from the back of the engine. low pitch wooing. thanks for any help.
 
Start with a through review of the battery and charging system.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

Next post the DTC codes. There are 1000's and they each have a story to tell.

Almost all auto parts stores will read DTC codes for free. Better yet. Get your own ODB2 scanner. This one will be way better.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/forscan-odb2-scanner-w-elm327-usb.57/
 
Start with a through review of the battery and charging system.

Howto perform charging system voltage drop test
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...perform-charging-system-voltage-drop-test.56/

Next post the DTC codes. There are 1000's and they each have a story to tell.

Almost all auto parts stores will read DTC codes for free. Better yet. Get your own ODB2 scanner. This one will be way better.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/forscan-odb2-scanner-w-elm327-usb.57/
Another update. Service engine light was due to a faulty Alternator. I figured as much. New one installed and code was cleared. Running good and still no cranking issues so far.