Passenger window switch not working...

[specTAKular]

I found that my passenger window switch is not operating. Makes the clicking sound on both up and down, but no window movement. Lock/unlock switch operates fine and window goes up/down with no problems when using the driver side switch. I had this happen once before, but when i took the door panel off, the switch started working again with no problems. No such luck this time. All the connections going to the switch appear to be fine.

This sound like a problem with the switch? wiring?

Is there any voltage test I can check on the switch?

 

[RaceDvr50]

Sounds like a problem with the switch to me, if it was wiring then neither switch should work. Certainly be the first thing I would look at.

 

[specTAKular]

do you suggest I pop the switch out of the plastic frame and replace, or is there a simple way to test it?

 

[specTAKular]

alright, it's not the switch. took the switch assembly apart, cleaned all connections and switch relays, and still no movement. all wires seem to be unharmed throughout door.

friend said it may be the window actuator. any help on where this is and what to look for???

 

[GDawg]

I'm sure you probably already checked, but you sure the "child lockout" switch on the driver's side isn't enabled?

 

[four.six]

I'm sure you probably already checked, but you sure the "child lockout" switch on the driver's side isn't enabled?

i didnt know our cars had child safty locks..... hmmmm

 

[GDawg]

i didnt know our cars had child safty locks..... hmmmm

I'm sure your door panel is the same as my '98 (except I have two extra window switches cause I have a vert). From the front of the door back, there is the mirror switch, the door locks, the window switches and then a large switch that says lock. It's only on the driver's side and it is to lock up the switches on the passenger side so if you have kids they can't play with them.

 

[DTNODYA]

I'm sure your door panel is the same as my '98 (except I have two extra window switches cause I have a vert). From the front of the door back, there is the mirror switch, the door locks, the window switches and then a large switch that says lock. It's only on the driver's side and it is to lock up the switches on the passenger side so if you have kids they can't play with them.

Naa man, on my 98 GT I don't have a 'child safety' switch. I think that is only on drop tops for our years.

Mine is like this: Mirror control, door lock/unlock (horizontally) and driver/passenger window up/down (vertically). Strange ain't it?...


BTW, I am having the same problem. On mine, the window will roll up and down fine from the driver side. If you press the button on the driver side and then press the opposite button on the passenger side (i.e., window up, window down) the passenger side will stop the window from going up. *if that makes any sense* But basically my passenger side window switch won't roll the window up or down. Help us :SNSign:

 

[RaceDvr50]

Stopping your window with the other switch is normal since the switches are wired in series. The guy you talked to that says it might be the actuator obviously knows nothing, never listen to him again. The windows have switches and motors period. If the window goes up and down with one switch, the motor works, not rocket science. The switches are wired in series and many of them including mine have a lock button which disables all other window switches in the car but the drivers. Since the switches work in series each switch should be making two contacts for each direction you rock it. It might make one but not the other and there you have a problem. DTNODYA's problem is most likely that the switch is switching to open the one circuit which stops the window but doesn't close the circuit to supply power to the motor.

 

[specTAKular]

thanks racedvr...great info.

DTNODYA, your issue is absolutely identical to mine so please let me know if you solve the issue! i'm going to go back and mess with the window lock switch on the driver side (mine's a vert as well) and see if i can get any action on the passenger side, otherwise, it looks like it's some kind of connection problem at the motor.

 

[sjrtx]

edit. n/m. I didnt see where you said it worked with the driver side switch.

 

[ALEX2028]

I am having th same problem, but with my driver side door. When i put the driver side switch on the passenger it works perfect so i know its not the switch. I also ran direct current to the window motor and it goes up and down with no problem, checked the wireing and seems to be ok. When I press the switch to use the driver side window it just makes a ticking noise.

 

[RaceDvr50]

I guess I don't understand, are you saying that it's not the switch because it will put down the passenger window? Each switch in the driver side switch cluster has independant contacts so either of the two, or four switches in the cluster could stop working and the rest could still work fine. Unless I am misunderstanding your statement then disreguard that.

 

[DTNODYA]

I just went outside and looked at my switch (visual inspection) of the back and nothing is corroded and everything is connected. Like I said before, the driver side (passenger window switch) will roll up/down the passenger window. While it is going up or down, the passenger side switch will stop the window if pressed. It will not, however, roll it up or down. Does not make any clicking sound or anything.

I am guessing that since pushing the button stops the window while it's going up or down means THAT circuit on the switch is fine? But maybe the circuit that rolls the window up and down is bad??? Some weird ****!

Does one have to buy a new switch (lock/unlock - windows up/down) for the passenger side?

 

[Mike97gt]

ok to clear this up the way the power window circuit works ..

there is no "stoping" the window motor, the polarity of the circuit changes depengin on witch way the switch is pushed..

here is a simple example

the window motor connector has 2 pins.. when you push the swithc inot the up pos pin 1 becomes 12v power and pin 2 is ground.. when the switch is in the down pos. pin 1 is ground and pin 2 is 12v

this is how the motor is able to reverse, they reverse the polarity of the circuit.

the first thing to do when checking this problem you guys are having is

1. if it's the passenger window see if it works from either switch, if not it could also be the motor itself

2. test the motor if it does not operate from either switch. you want to see if you have 12v and ground ( remember the polarity switches depending if the swithc is in the up or down pos.)

3. if you have no power to the motor, make sure you have power at the switch. it's common to have wiring breaks in the rubber boot going in between the door and the body. so if you can not find any other reason that you would not have power check inside the rubber boot.

 

[DTNODYA]

ok to clear this up the way the power window circuit works ..

there is no "stoping" the window motor, the polarity of the circuit changes depengin on witch way the switch is pushed..

here is a simple example

the window motor connector has 2 pins.. when you push the swithc inot the up pos pin 1 becomes 12v power and pin 2 is ground.. when the switch is in the down pos. pin 1 is ground and pin 2 is 12v

this is how the motor is able to reverse, they reverse the polarity of the circuit.

the first thing to do when checking this problem you guys are having is

1. if it's the passenger window see if it works from either switch, if not it could also be the motor itself

2. test the motor if it does not operate from either switch. you want to see if you have 12v and ground ( remember the polarity switches depending if the swithc is in the up or down pos.)

3. if you have no power to the motor, make sure you have power at the switch. it's common to have wiring breaks in the rubber boot going in between the door and the body. so if you can not find any other reason that you would not have power check inside the rubber boot.

My PASSENGER window goes up and down just fine when I use the button on the DRIVERS door. If I push the window button on the PASSENGER door it does nothing. If I push the up or down button on the DRIVER door and THEN someone else presses the switch on the PASSENGER door while the window is going up or down, it stops it. So the PASSENGER switch does something ... just doesn't roll the window up or down. That's my deal.

 

[n0v8or]

dtnodya,

To expand on svttech's explanation, I see only 2 possibilities for the set of symptoms you described:

(1) You are not getting +12V at the passenger door switch. On my '01 diagram, it is a pink wire. Not sure if that is true for your '98. The drivers door switch bypasses that 12V feed, which is why it can still operate the motor from your side. Note the hint in svttech's post that a broken wires is not unusual. That bundle of wires is flexed every time you open and close the door.

(2) You are getting 12V to the switch OK, but is has failed internally. You can prove this by sliding a jumper wire into the switch connector to operate the motor. Tell us the wire colors to the switch and we can tell you which pins to jump.

 

[Mike97gt]

My PASSENGER window goes up and down just fine when I use the button on the DRIVERS door. If I push the window button on the PASSENGER door it does nothing. If I push the up or down button on the DRIVER door and THEN someone else presses the switch on the PASSENGER door while the window is going up or down, it stops it. So the PASSENGER switch does something ... just doesn't roll the window up or down. That's my deal.

I would put the odds right now as 90 percent likely it's the passenger side switch and 10 percent of a wiring problem.

now I know the switch is doing somthing but that does not mean it's doing what it should. in the at rest pos. ( when you are not using the passenger side switch) the power and ground just travel thru the switch.. when you hit the switch it I bet it's screwing up either the power or ground.

 

[n0v8or]

I absolutely agree with your 90/10 probability assessment.
Over the years, I have replaced at least 30 bad electrical components in cars, but only once have traced a problem to a broken wire (and that one was intermittent, not completely severed).

 

[Mike97gt]

I absolutely agree with your 90/10 probability assessment.
Over the years, I have replaced at least 30 bad electrical components in cars, but only once have traced a problem to a broken wire (and that one was intermittent, not completely severed).

yes thats very true, and most of the time when I find broken wires it's in high flex areas like the boot that runs from the door to the body.