Progress Thread Project 302

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Parts have started to come in, block and heads should be off to the machine shop come Monday. Yes I went with a ford cam I know some of yall don't agree with that but it should be fine for my build. I have a buddy that runs that same cam in his mustang and all seems good to me.
 

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I need some help deciding whether or not to have a/c in my build (I live in Arizona). I understand without would increase power, but by how much? Is it worth the power loss to not bake in the summer time? Any replies would be greatly appreciated.
 
A/C is a must man. Like everyone before me said....no lost when off....and in AZ you will need it for sure.

I've ran MSD distributors for the last 15 years. Still have the first one I bought. ( I did have to replace the pick up in it but it works good as new ). The newer MSD distributors were bitten by the low quality TFI bug. Mine are both older models and the MSD modules are long gone....but the physical distributor is OK and looks a lot better than stock.
 
Parts have started to come in, block and heads should be off to the machine shop come Monday. Yes I went with a ford cam I know some of yall don't agree with that but it should be fine for my build. I have a buddy that runs that same cam in his mustang and all seems good to me.
There is no point in you changing out a camshaft, regardless if it's a " letter cam" if you're gonna end up hobbling the setup with a weak valve spring . A spring wears out over time. It loses its ability to do its job, which is a hell of a lot more than most people think. Read up on how many times a valve opens and closes at 5000 rpm. Put 30 + years of doing that, and Now add a higher lift cam into the mix. Springs are part of a cam swap, because they make or break the new cams ability to help the engine to make power at the advertised rpm.
Don't cheat yourself into thinking that you can "get by". If you're doing a total rebuild, why spend any extra money on something that is just as antiquated as the engine was before rebuilding it, just to turn around, and throw it away when you have to tear it apart because the engine isn't performing the way you thought/hoped it would? ( the b cam). At the very freaking least, if you're rebuilding the engine....rebuild the engine.
 
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There is no point in you changing out a camshaft, regardless if it's a " letter cam" if you're gonna end up hobbling the setup with a weak valve spring . A spring wears out over time. It loses its ability to do its job, which is a hell of a lot more than most people think. Read up on how many times a valve opens and closes at 5000 rpm. Put 30 + years of doing that, and Now add a higher lift cam into the mix. Springs are part of a cam swap, because they make or break the new cams ability to help the engine to make power at the advertised rpm.
Don't cheat yourself into thinking that you can "get by". If you're doing a total rebuild, why spend any extra money on something that is just as antiquated as the engine was before rebuilding it, just to turn around, and throw it away when you have to tear it apart because the engine isn't performing the way you thought/hoped it would? ( the b cam). At the very freaking least, if you're rebuilding the engine....rebuild the engine.
Well as said the heads are headed to the machine shop on Monday, I will have them check out the springs. I have nothing against replacing the springs just trying to hold off for a few.
 
Most cars shut off the AC compressor at WOT. Do our 5.0’s do that? If not, you might want to wire an interrupt switch for the clutch to do so. I would have the AC on most all the time in AZ.
I’m more concerned about old valve springs than a letter cam with an older patttern. If a spring breaks and lets the valve loose, the impact would be very bad. Even if they spec out, metal fatigue can surprise you. If they float over 4500 rpm, you will be changing them anyway. Changing them in the car stinks, as does pulling the heads or motor.
If you want a new, quality water pump, GMB is a good brand. If you want to save more money, I have used rebuilt ones from Cardone (M1Cardone) on other cars without issues for many miles and years.
https://vehiclemaintenanceandrepairs.com/gmb-water-pumps-review/
 
Alright it's a waiting game now, the block and heads are at the machine shop. Can't afford to buy any more parts until I know what is going on with those. I have decided to go with new springs by the way, was looking at the mileage on the donor (over 300,000mi) and thought yeah lets do new springs. Lol
 

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I personally like the lighter Ford Blue color, but it depends on what the rest of the colors you are planning on doing like valve covers, intake, accessories, etc...

Lighter colors also make it easier to see leaks as well
 
I personally like the lighter Ford Blue color, but it depends on what the rest of the colors you are planning on doing like valve covers, intake, accessories, etc...

Lighter colors also make it easier to see leaks as well
That is something that I was considering.
Just paint the block gray, goes with everything and you really don't see it anyway.
Grey sounds boring to me and true no one will really see it but I will know what it looks like and that's what matters. lol
 
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