proper way to delete ac and smog?

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Deleting smog won't gain you anything except cleaning up the engine bay a little bit. Unless you're just anal about the looks in your engine bay, you're really better off just leaving it in place - the smog pump doesn't draw diddly-squat to turn (MAYBE 1-2 horsepower?) and overall your car will generally run better if everything is left alone and kept in working order. If you simply MUST get rid of the smog pump, though, you're best off just running a shorter belt - don't bother with one of those silly smog pump delete pulleys unless you think you might want to swap the smog pump back on later and you don't want to buy a shorter belt.

As far as the A/C goes, the BEST way to delete it is to unbolt and disconnect the compressor, condensor, accumulator, and hoses, and then install a Ford Racing A/C delete bracket (less than $50), which moves your power steering pump approximately up to where the A/C compressor once sat. Then you just buy a stock belt for a non-A/C car (I wanna say it's an 87.5" 6-rib belt, but my memory sucks), and then go on with life happily ever after. This is essentially the same bracket that Ford threw on non-A/C cars, so it's a factory part.

Those other A/C delete kits that have you flip or relocate your tensioner are ridiculous-looking and put the belt up in the way of things (makes adjusting your timing while the thing's running a bit more "fun"), and those stupid A/C delete pulleys are teh suck - I have one on my '89 that I hate with a passion because the bearing in the pulley crapped out and wallowed-out the inside of the aluminum pulley, ruining it in less than 6 months (I'm now rocking a universal idler pulley on that bracket as a ghetto-rigged fix with a shorter belt until I can afford a proper Ford A/C delete bracket.
 
not really. just remove the smog and a/c, plug up any lines, and buy a shorter belt. easiest bang for your buck and almost free.:nice:

Not quite that simple. Running a shorter belt by simply removing the A/C compressor doesn't exactly work unless you have a proper A/C delete bracket to move the power steering pump upwards. Otherwise, the belt rubs upon itself as it passes over the water pump pulley, and you'll be going through belts frequently and constantly having that black rubber powder all over everything underhood. (Trust me, I know, this is how the prior owner tried to bypass the A/C on my '89 when I first got it.)
 
what are the yielded gains from a/c delete i cant see getting rif of my old r12 or whatevr system when it is colder than the r134 of today lol....my a.c works better in my 5.0 than any other car i have had. it blows strong and is icy asap...
 
what are the yielded gains from a/c delete i cant see getting rif of my old r12 or whatevr system when it is colder than the r134 of today lol....my a.c works better in my 5.0 than any other car i have had. it blows strong and is icy asap...

I only did it because my A/C did'nt work and i wanted to clean up under the hood. Other then that i would guess maybe 2-5 HP and about 10 pounds off the frt end if you remove everything. If your A/C still works i would'nt remove it.

I think someday in the future people restoring there mustangs are going to wanta put them back on. Far far in the future
 
Not having the A/C crap in the way makes a lot of other things easier to work on, and you'll shed about 20 lbs. of dead weight. But unless you're actually RUNNING the A/C compressor, it doesn't draw diddly-squat for horsepower at all - the disengaged compressor clutch just freewheels and pretty much acts like a big idler pulley. Take the belt off and spin it with your finger sometime and you'll see just how easy it turns. The smog pump doesn't take that much more to turn, either - a little more, but damned little, and not nearly as much as your water pump or power steering pump.

If your system is all intact, though, and it works, or if it would only take a minor repair to get it working again, I'd keep it. I would only ditch it if the whole system needs to be gone through (new compressor, condensor, etc.).
 
Remove the junk you don't need, buy the Ford Racing A/C Eliminator kit and ONLY that kit...it'll cost you about $50 plus the price of a new belt. Finished, period, dot, the end.

There is a theoretical HP gain because a shorter belt yields less drag, but you won't feel it aside from maybe a slightly more responsive rev. You might see a tenth or so in the quarter though.
 
If i could go back, i'd keep my A/C. I only removed it because I half-assed converted it to R134a and didn't do it right and got fed up.

On a weekend car, it might not be a huge deal. If it's 95 degrees and sweltering out, i just don't drive my Mustang.

But if it was a daily driven car, i'd give a hard look into keeping it. My car is black with black leather interior...and if i had to sit in traffic in it with no A/C in the summer...i'd die.
 
If i could go back, i'd keep my A/C. I only removed it because I half-assed converted it to R134a and didn't do it right and got fed up.

On a weekend car, it might not be a huge deal. If it's 95 degrees and sweltering out, i just don't drive my Mustang.

But if it was a daily driven car, i'd give a hard look into keeping it. My car is black with black leather interior...and if i had to sit in traffic in it with no A/C in the summer...i'd die.

Bah ... weakling! Try sitting in traffic in a black notch with a sunroof in 112* desert heat! :p
 
thanks for the replies

Well its less for the power gains cause i already know they are minimal. The smog is useless to me it has been disconnected for the past 6 months and i would rather just save the weight and aggravation since this motor is getting swapped into a 4cyl notch. The AC hasn't worked since i bought the car and im tired of my engine compartment being cluttered so when everything goes into the the notch i want it clean and simple all you need is windows down at 80 and it feels amazing