Pulling Codes Nightmare

[Drews93fox]

So i have 93 lx all original wiring but is a pain. The previous owner tried to clean up the wiring by cutting out things he didn't think that was needed. Now I am trying to pullcodes and he cut off the connector to pull codes. But I do have the connector and the single connector. I was told that they are normally on the drivers side firewall,but i have found 4 out of the 5 wires in the passenger finder. The wire colors I have on the connector are 2- blue with orange trace, 1- beigh with a green trace, 1- gray with red trace (I have not found this one) These are all on the big connector. The little connector is a white or tan with a purple trace. I have found this one. I still have a problem because how do i know for sure that these are the right ones?

I have found the gray with red trace but i havent found an end of it. It does go from the passenger side to the drivers and then into a connector.

Where are all the wires suppost to go? To the computer or under the drivers dash? Thanks for all the help

 

[jrichker]

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 91-93 model 5.0 Mustangs

How it is supposed to work:
The grey/red wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power
and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its
way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should
read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery
pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector grey/red wire gets jumpered to power
which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer.
That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60. Only an experienced electronics technician can open
the computer up & repair the trace if it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering
it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test
simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(grey/red wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the grey/red wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector : it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the
computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the grey/red wire goes. Almost every
sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info

If you feel like opening up the computer to attempt to repair the fried wire, see Computer issue? - Mustang Forums at StangNet and joel5.0's comments for more help on fixing the computer innards.

 

[Drews93fox]

OK I so i found he end of the gray/red wire it was in the group of wires that runs from one side to the other. The rest of the wires were cut off and shoved it the passenger fender. I was able to splice the connectors back in, i havent bought a tester but im sure that this will work. Is just on the passenger side of my car now lol Thanks for the input jrichker

 

[jrichker]

Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.