Question about upgrades...

T3AL

New Member
Oct 17, 2004
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I got a 93 NA2.3 with the duel plug system

planed mods

9LBS Flywheel
Cam gear Set
2.5L Crank
Crower 5.7 Rods
Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons for use with 5.7" rods. 9:1 CR, Standard Bore Size
Racing Cam Followers
2.3 Stage #3A Mech Roller Cam. Lift @ valve - .560". Dur @ .050" - 252
63mm Throttle Body
Header
MSD dis-2 ing system

Maybe 4.10 gears its got a t-5 and Iam looking for some cheap lightweight rims.

Also what are good lifters to go with this setup?


Stock 105HP TQ?
Iam guessing about 200 HP but that is prolly pushing it. and where can I get a MAF that will work with the system and who makes a good chip for the ecu?

If it is around 200 Where can I find a 100hp NOS system?(got a link?)
 
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You might wanna scratch the whole hypereutectic piston idea and run a forged slug with that 100 shot of nitrous you have planned. Pro-M makes probably one of the best MAS. Looks like you picked the racer walsh mech. roller cam. You will want at -least- the "B" valve springs and "A" solid lash adjusters. You might even check out some nice retainers as well to keep from dropping a valve into those nice pistons at 7K, which is where you will need to spin that motor to make the power that cam is capable of. Also you will need a very nice port job as well as a nice set of larger valves so that cam can be done justice. Since you have spent more than the cost of a 2.3T on just your valve train and cam, you might as well just visit >>>>>> www.turboford.org <<<<<< and see what's up with making real, usable, and wallet friendly horsepower.
 
Thanks for the info on Racer Walsh, but added up it will cost me about $3K.

Which what ppl tellme the NA 2.3s wernt made very well which dosent bother me at all cause I can take the extra parts and put them twards the Turbo motor iam gonna build....

So Thanks for the info...with what you think i should change what HP/TQ range do you think iam gonna end up with?

Ok I replaned what iam gonna do instead of stroking it iam just gonna bore it out .30 over which is gonna make things cheaper for me so heres what iam gonna do.

$279.99 flywheel steel 2.0/2.3 9lbs
$345.00 pistons STD9-1 5.7 2.3
$74.95 Type A 2.3L Solid Lifter Lash Adjusters
$127.95 2.3L Followers w/ Insert RWA1484
$35.25 retainer set 2.3 type a
$49.49 valve spring set 2.3 type a
$199.95 Cam Sprocket Round Tooth Conversion Kit
$169.98 cam #2 2.3 mech .450"/244
$163.95 1300 Street Series 4 cylinder header
$335.00 dis-2 ing system
$348.00 2.3L Crower Sportsman Connecting Rods 5.2" Nut & Bolt caps
$294.00 Wiesco Forged pistons for use with 5.2" rods. 9:1 CR, .030 Overbore Size.

do a port and polish on the intake, intake and exause sides of the head a cold air intake i should be happy till i get can afford a 100hp nos shot

I found a universal Borla system for 700something$ iam thinking iam gonna take some exause system off some rice reinder for the piping and make it work or cop a duel exause system from a V6 SN stang.

I figure without the exause - the header its gonna run me $2294.07 which i think is damn good cause it takes about $3K to make a honda crx 1.6 a 160hp jdm moster.
 
Don't forget what you need to tune that beast. Think about it 3K for 200hp (maybe) or 3K for one bad ass 300+ HP turbo motor. . . You can buy the SVO dual exhaust to bolt up (with some work) to the n/a or straight up to the turbo. . .
 
I already know I should turbo it but i cn afford to do a motor swap(but i can afford to build the motor i got), that goes to show how expencive it is to do a motor swap around here.

Know a site that sells cheap exause systems?
 
What? To build the motor you have you will have to take it out of the car, have a machine shop do all the work for you as far as boring and balancing, pay for all the new gaskets, the labor for this, then putting this motor back in. Or you could find a TC motor for next to nothing, maybe freshen up the gaskets, it already has forged slugs, and put it in your car. Sell your 2.3 complete with computer, and make back some money. Where are you located? Hell if you are confident in turning wrenches, you could rent a cherry picker and DIY. Patience and confidencs is all it takes for this swap. Well and you have great resources to help you figure out any bugs. . . .
 
yeah building the motor is cheaper than doing a swap cause there are no svos in nebraska and I have yet to see turbo coupes and all teh merkers are run to ****.

So there goes any base platform to start with the block of a turbo motor i do have has a hole in the block and pices of a crank around there, thats why iam not building a turbo motor I blow them to easy.
 
the two are almost the same, turbo blocks had a oil return hole in the block (not really needed) and forged pistons. If you find a merk, you'd be suprised how resiliant these motors can be, and how cheap. Even if it's missing the turbo and exhaust manifold you can find one in the clasifieds for next to nothing(or just go straight for the aftermarket) as well as an LA3 computer. I know there has to be some fox 2.3's from 90 and earlier that you can grab an engine harness from to facilitate the swap. Less than a $1000. I'm just letting you know that the n/a route is VERY expensive (I have a N/A 2V 4.6. . .) and you will be much happier with the power AND driveability. Just some FYI....
 
I know turbo is better but untill i get the money to build anSVO specivic motor this is what iam gonna do....so thanks for the info you guys have been a great help...
 
T3AL said:
I know turbo is better but untill i get the money to build anSVO specivic motor this is what iam gonna do....so thanks for the info you guys have been a great help...

I think Your missing the point. All they are saying is that its much cheaper to do the turbo swap. It will only cost maybe 1/3 of what you planning on spending right now, and you'll be making tons more Hp. And still be able to drive it on the street and pass inspection, not to mention use pump gas.
 
I did my turbo swap (with some upgrades aswell as new rings/bearings/seals) for about 1000$ , and on a bad day i would get better gas milage and more power than the setup you just presented. Point, turbo is easier in this application...unless you have your heart set on an over-priced less power build up, i would look into the turbo route. :nice:
 
I don't know why you think there are no turbo cars in Nebraska...I know of 4 different guys that buy them up there all the time...they are around, you just have to find them.

I agree that you will be dissapointed in the power (or lack thereof) when you complete your high dollar buildup. I'd say estimating 200hp is pretty lofter...I'd guess 180 at the flywheel which would be 150 or so at the wheels. It's still gonna be slower than the new minivans that are available.

On the other hand, I've got a total of 1800 bux wrapped up in my SVO (including purchase price, 17" wheels, aftermarket turbo, etc.) and it traps 103 mph in the 1/4 and hasn't even began to reach it's full potential yet...you should have seen the list of cars I destroyed at the track the last few weeks.