Question: anyone successfully done stock front springs with the two piece external spring compressors?

JasonRP

JasonRP

5 Year Member
May 25, 2018
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Annapolis
#1
Hi folks,
I've been searching, and seen lots of recommendations. If I had more $$$, I'd use that fancy schmancy OTC 7045B, as shown nicely here: http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/tmp/OTC-spring-tool/thumb.html

But, I don't have that kinda bread for a 1 time tool.. This looks about right for my budget:
www.harborfreight.com

MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor Set

Amazing deals on this Macpherson Strut Spring Compressor Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

I have (and want to retain) stock length/type springs, but I'm replacing them (and the control arms).. Has anyone actually done similar with stock ride height springs, and used these external spring compressors? I do plan to use a safety chain- just would like to know if this will work, or will it not fit/work?
 

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#3
Yeah just use the jack to pump it up, unbolt your stuff, then let the jack out slowly and bam your spring is out, I still stood out of the way and was ready for mayhem!!
 
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#6
No Autozone or similar supply houses in your area which provide free loaner tools? My local one loans the single screw type compressor which goes in the middle of the spring. Makes the job much easier.
You do not need to buy the part from them to loan the tool. You pay for it up front and they reimburse you when you return it.
I replaced the springs and control arms in a 94 Mustang.
 
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#7
If I recall correctly, the MM states specifically on their site that the spring installation tool doesn't work with stock springs since they're too tall.

I've tried to use the external compressors in the past; however, there are just too many things in the way for them to work on a Fox. OTC tools makes a spring compressor that is the same as the factory-specified Rotunda spring compressor (part number 7045B), but it ain't cheap.

I've always gotten it done by using a very long pry bar. Place the pry bar into the spring cup so it won't slip out. Spray the edge of the spring cup with a little WD40 so that the spring isolator doesn't bind on the edge. A long enough pry bar will make it very manageable. I've used this method on aftermarket and stock springs.
 
#8
Not that I advocate this method, but I did it with hose clamps. 10-15 clamps on the spring, go around and tighten it up with a nut driver. It shrinks it down pretty far and you can get it in place.

yes, it’s sketchy, but all the other spring compressors I used wouldn’t work. The proper one actually goes in from under the control arm through the hole and tightens the spring down in the perch. Unfortunately I couldn’t rent that one and it was too much to buy.
 
#9
Mustang5L5 said:
Not that I advocate this method, but I did it with hose clamps. 10-15 clamps on the spring, go around and tighten it up with a nut driver. It shrinks it down pretty far and you can get it in place.

yes, it’s sketchy, but all the other spring compressors I used wouldn’t work. The proper one actually goes in from under the control arm through the hole and tightens the spring down in the perch. Unfortunately I couldn’t rent that one and it was too much to buy.
Click to expand...
Ideal brand hose clamps are surprisingly strong. A different car I own ripped apart new left motor mounts after a rebuild. I put two hose clamps around the last new one I replaced on the road after just merging onto the interstate. Power breaking and enthusiastic driving have not hurt it since (20 years??).
Just keep your head out of the way if you try this method on springs.
 
#13
The external compressors are too long, but I did manage to use it by cutting it down which gave me just enough room to slip the spring in, this may or may not have been a borrowed tool from Advanced Auto parts ....
 
#14
Jersey Joe said:
this may or may not have been a borrowed tool from Advanced Auto parts ....
Click to expand...
buckwheat-poster-card-c10230417.jpg
 
#15
The external compressors have not worked well for me. I built an internal compressor out of some 1/2 steel plate I had. The spring stripped the 5/8 all thread I used at first. So I went to 3/4 in threaded rod and its worked for 20 years. Removing the A arm pivot bolts seemed to work a bit better, while leaving the ball joint connected. Short springs are much easier.
 
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#18
revhead347 said:
At Autozone, probably most of your life. Pretty sure on a Mustang you can just stick one end through the hole on the top and make it even easier.

Kurt
Click to expand...
Kurt, do you know what year AZ started doing the tool thing officially?’ Western Auto//Advancerd Auto was not cir 1998, but was by the early 2000’s. At Autoworks (Chevket/Schucks/Kragen, now part of O’Really’s), we had an unofficial, local Tool Loan Program to get the oil slicking disasters out of the parking lot. That manager butted heads with central office on how to meet local market needs, but had high enough sales that they still gave him and the minions raises.
 
#19
7991LXnSHO said:
Kurt, do you know what year AZ started doing the tool thing officially?’ Western Auto//Advancerd Auto was not cir 1998, but was by the early 2000’s. At Autoworks (Chevket/Schucks/Kragen, now part of O’Really’s), we had an unofficial, local Tool Loan Program to get the oil slicking disasters out of the parking lot. That manager butted heads with central office on how to meet local market needs, but had high enough sales that they still gave him and the minions raises.
Click to expand...
No, not for certain. I was Discount Auto Parts/Advance Auto circa 2002-2005. We had a pretty good tool load program by then.

Kurt
 
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