Could someone give me a breakdown of exactly what is needed (which parts, and what they do to help) to harden my '00 GTs rear end to handle a good 600 HP at the wheels?
I would appreciate it.
I would appreciate it.
Question on what is needed to harden the rearend
- Thread starter Betrayer00GT
- Start date
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Kilgore Trout said:
Congratulations!!!
You have an excellent grasp of the obvious.
The thing is, I know what is needed to mod the engine to handle it. I do not know what is needed to get the rear end up to snuff.
Thanks for taking the time to make such a useful post.
whatever your favorite center section is in a 31 spline. you will need aftermarket axles to match the 31 spline. when you put it all in the case, use the FRPP studs(basically like main studs on an engine block). for a rear cover you definately want a diff girdle. besides giving strenth you get the added bonus of drain and fill plugs on the rear. as for the casing, you want to weld the axle tubes.
cracula69
Founding Member
1) Weld the axle tubes, 2) upgrade axles from 28 spline to 31 spline (Moser, Superior,etc...), 3) Upgrade differential from 28 to 31 (Eaton, etc...), 4) install an aluminum gridle (SVO, Trick-Flo, etc..)
Yeah, I agree with bcardinal and cracula... But I would suggest that you also paint the rear axle housing while you are at it. Might as well while you have it off There are some real nice paints that can be applied over rough and even rusty metal surfaces like the housing. I would go with gloss black I think...
Def weld the axle tubes and also weld the torque boxes.
There are some real nice paints that can be applied over rough and even rusty metal surfaces like the housing. I would go with gloss black I think...Def weld the axle tubes and also weld the torque boxes.
get a detroit tru trac or locker if you don't mind a little noise on corners ( they hook awsome) if you do mind the noise go with a 31 spine foird carrier, with either one you need the axles
also it's very important to weld up the axle tubes and tourqe boxes.
also remember it's not the horsepower that breaks the rear, it's HOOKING from a stop. there ae many stock 240 hp at the wheels cars that launch on slicks and have broke.
thats why I can't run sticky tires yet, I need to upgrade to a 31 spline.
also it's very important to weld up the axle tubes and tourqe boxes.
also remember it's not the horsepower that breaks the rear, it's HOOKING from a stop. there ae many stock 240 hp at the wheels cars that launch on slicks and have broke.
thats why I can't run sticky tires yet, I need to upgrade to a 31 spline.
are you planning on drag racing or road racing? the setup of the diff is gonna be a little different depending on what you want. if you are building a serious road racing rear end, you will want to look at cooling. a diff cooler is almost required for hardcore road racing. you might want to consider putting in a cooler for your 5 speed, they use them on a lot of road racers. you plumb in an electric pump with steel braided lines to the cooler up front.
helty
some Ukrainian's enjoying a handjob via my credit
what all these guys said.
Im going with a Detroit Truetrac, because I can deal with a little noise for the performance.
Im going with a Detroit Truetrac, because I can deal with a little noise for the performance.
03ghoststang
Well-Known Member
bdcardinal said:
I would run the car with the full power I could get from it during drag strip outings, but I would want to be able to tone it down a good bit with a pulley swap, wheel/tire swap, and a switch of the active tune in an aftermarket chip. Certainly no locker diffs need apply. The car would hopefully not give away excessive clues as to the extent of the modifications to any one at 10-15 feet away while it is parked or operating, when they are not really looking for them, when it is in its "toned down" setup. It would not really matter if it took several hours to switch from one to the other, but I would not want to need a shop's facilities to accomplish it (just the tire/wheel swap, pulley swap, and alternate program selection - if I could get just that to work.)
I am not interested in road course racing, just all the straight line speed available, with out giving up the ability to swap the bolt ons I mentioned (and any others that would need to be changed that I am not aware of now), in order assume the apperance, and as much of the road manners as I could be allowed to get away with, of a GT with some appearence (17" wheels/315 tires, front bumper, hood, others) and exhaust mods. The point would be to avoid much of the attention of the uninitiated. Enthusiasts should realize roughly what is hanging out under the hood (and wonder whether other wise mods went in with it) if they get a good look at the outside, but "Joe Blow" should be completely clueless about my "rather loud, obnoxious looking Mustang", given a look or a listen from that 10-15 feet away I mentioned earlier.
That is the idea. The current mission is to asses the cost of making the idea into a project with the ensuing timeline dependant on the ultimate cost. If the ultimate cost gets to be too high to do it right, the idea will turn into a fantasy, instead of a project. The concept really appeals to me, however. My (completely) uninformed guess, is that I could pull this off for under $20,000 all told (sans the appearance mods, they will be done regardless).
So you are all a bit more informed as to my reason for asking the question. Does this help you in offering any other advice?
hognutz
New Member
the tubes are are plug welded from the factory. the tubes can spin in the housing if you really hook.
basically you run a bead around the tube at the housing. you can%2
basically you run a bead around the tube at the housing. you can%2
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