Hey everyone, I'm going nuts here. It seems everytime I touch my car something else goes funky 
. I did some recent mods awhile ago. I put on a new Ford racing 65mm TB and egr spacer, matched the upper intake, T- Moss etc. All new sensors , Idle control motor, air charge, new 95 70 mm MAF, coolant, map etc. I posted a stalling problem due to egr code and fixed that with a new egr vacuum soleniod and pintle sensor, after finding the vacuum problem 1st then the sensor problem 2nd then cleaned the EGR etc. the code is now gone. The idle qaulity still lacked and would sometimes still stumble. I went through the idle check list on here.
Now before I touched the car the other day I had no whistle at idlethis point might be important. I wanted to fix my poor idle problem and i read that alot of idle problems stem from not doing the base idle set after checking the other things, vacuum reads fine, no codes now, timing is 14 etc. The idle before was really low maybe 600 or so. I go to do the base idle set from info on a link posted by hissen, I pulled the negative cable for the 30min, unplugged the iac etc. the car wouldn't start with it off so I screwed the set screw in a little until I could get it started then set the idle, did the 2min idle thing and it idle around 800 (going by the stock gauge so a educated guess) but now it whistles!!!
I checked the tps voltage which I had to lower due to the idle change, I pulled the pvc which was all new from the when I did the mods new screen, grommet etc. it was fine, rechecked lines and sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake, egr, TB, vacuum lines and no idle change. I can't hear it as much when standing on the pass. side and putting my ear near the TB but I can really hear it on the drivers side and if lay my ear on the body of the intake I can hear it good. The whistle is loud even when the hood is closed you can hear it..If I raise the idle or snap the throttle is goes away though.
I drove the car and the messed up part is it now idles better and doesn't stumble anymore when yo put then clutch in coming to a stop, it's better than ever but freaken whistles
. so before base idle reset no whistle after whistle and I didn't touch anything but do the idle adjustment, I'm lost. I searched and read some stuff about TB whistle or maybe the tps is now adjusted at the point where it has the butterfly blade in a bad spot.
The only other thing I can find, the vacuum tree coming out from under the intake that feeds the brake booster and the vacuum lone going over to the a/c tank and solenoids by the strut tower I can rock ot back and forth a little with my hands. It was that way when I first intalled the intake, I used a lot of tef tape and tighted it up but didn't want to break the tree. I sprayed that thing and the idle didn't change maybe it's got a leak but the whistle is loud even when the hood is closed you can hear it, but goes away by just raising the idle.
. I did some recent mods awhile ago. I put on a new Ford racing 65mm TB and egr spacer, matched the upper intake, T- Moss etc. All new sensors , Idle control motor, air charge, new 95 70 mm MAF, coolant, map etc. I posted a stalling problem due to egr code and fixed that with a new egr vacuum soleniod and pintle sensor, after finding the vacuum problem 1st then the sensor problem 2nd then cleaned the EGR etc. the code is now gone. The idle qaulity still lacked and would sometimes still stumble. I went through the idle check list on here.Now before I touched the car the other day I had no whistle at idlethis point might be important. I wanted to fix my poor idle problem and i read that alot of idle problems stem from not doing the base idle set after checking the other things, vacuum reads fine, no codes now, timing is 14 etc. The idle before was really low maybe 600 or so. I go to do the base idle set from info on a link posted by hissen, I pulled the negative cable for the 30min, unplugged the iac etc. the car wouldn't start with it off so I screwed the set screw in a little until I could get it started then set the idle, did the 2min idle thing and it idle around 800 (going by the stock gauge so a educated guess) but now it whistles!!!
I checked the tps voltage which I had to lower due to the idle change, I pulled the pvc which was all new from the when I did the mods new screen, grommet etc. it was fine, rechecked lines and sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake, egr, TB, vacuum lines and no idle change. I can't hear it as much when standing on the pass. side and putting my ear near the TB but I can really hear it on the drivers side and if lay my ear on the body of the intake I can hear it good. The whistle is loud even when the hood is closed you can hear it..If I raise the idle or snap the throttle is goes away though.
I drove the car and the messed up part is it now idles better and doesn't stumble anymore when yo put then clutch in coming to a stop, it's better than ever but freaken whistles
. so before base idle reset no whistle after whistle and I didn't touch anything but do the idle adjustment, I'm lost. I searched and read some stuff about TB whistle or maybe the tps is now adjusted at the point where it has the butterfly blade in a bad spot. The only other thing I can find, the vacuum tree coming out from under the intake that feeds the brake booster and the vacuum lone going over to the a/c tank and solenoids by the strut tower I can rock ot back and forth a little with my hands. It was that way when I first intalled the intake, I used a lot of tef tape and tighted it up but didn't want to break the tree. I sprayed that thing and the idle didn't change maybe it's got a leak but the whistle is loud even when the hood is closed you can hear it, but goes away by just raising the idle.
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