So my first time rebuiling my 99 gt had it torn down to the block and tranny in and that's it. I did as much research and video watching and started the rebuild. I installed heads and with new gaskets, then did the timing side with new chains, guides, etc (oiled them), did timing cover and pulleys, installed new typhoon intake kit, shorty headers and x pipe, poured oil over the timing chains, cams, and stuff before putting vavle covers back on. Then I filled fluids and hooked battery up. I left injectors unplugged and primed fuel pump after connecting shut off switch by turning key to ON/engine off. Then I turned over and held key over for 10 second to turn the enine without starting to cycle fluids (twice). Then I finally connected injectors amd started car. Started right up and idled perfect. Sounded perfect....... But then it started smoking from what looks like between the bottom valve covers and header areas. We thought it was just burning off oil drippige but got more Smokey then all the sudden it started idling rough and making a light knocking sound. Turned it off and tried to look over. I'm lost. Any ideas. Seems like there may not be oil getting to the cam areas maybe making the cams dry (I don't know) HELP ME
Engine Rebuild Smoking
- Thread starter Slowpony98
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Whenever I have done major work on a 4.6 or 5.4 I have always been able to "see" an oil film on the chains/cams by shining a light through the oil fill tube. Sometimes you have to look carefully to see the slight film.
Explain again what happened to the old motor. Did you clean and remove all debris from the oil pan? For example after a timing set failure pieces of broken plastic can clog the pick up.
For a new build it might be a good idea to actually measure the oil pressure.
And you are positive there isn't any oil leaking from the valve covers.
Explain again what happened to the old motor. Did you clean and remove all debris from the oil pan? For example after a timing set failure pieces of broken plastic can clog the pick up.
For a new build it might be a good idea to actually measure the oil pressure.
And you are positive there isn't any oil leaking from the valve covers.
I thought I may have a blown head gasket by seeing some blue smoke coming out of tail pipe when I decided to break down and rebuild engine and add some mods.(typhoon intake kit, shorty headers, xpipe, gaskets) I was careful with everything and cleaned real good. When did timing there wasnt any debris that broke off. Just changed the timing stuff cause i was down there. Timed good I think. Started and ran good at first then started smoke and light knock. I dont know how to measure oil pressure but have a friend that might. Looked like possible little oil leaking from bottom of valve covers onto headers but thought it was just the oil I poured onto the cams and stuff before puttimg covers on and starting.
squeak93
15 Year Member
How did you prime the oil system? The pump won't suck the oil up and fill the system unless you pre prime it first. Did you stock gauge register anything at all (Won't tell psi but will tell if there is pressure or not).
I found a bottle pump with a fitting going into the oil sensor hole was easiest.
If you ran it without oil then you likely toasted some bearings.
I found a bottle pump with a fitting going into the oil sensor hole was easiest.
If you ran it without oil then you likely toasted some bearings.
It was my first time doing this project. I used blog and video to do it. Only thing I came across at time was to keep the spark stuff unplugged amd and connect battery then turn key over for 10seconds each time about 3 times. Was told this would prime the fuel and oil pumps to circulate. It started so smooth after and tbennstartrd the heavy smoke. Is there a video that can show me how to do this in detail for when I take the motor all apart to restart again as I'm assuming I need new heads and gaskets now......?? Or should I try to do the prime first before I break down the whole engine again.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
FWIIW the Gerotor type oil pump used in the modular motor doesn't require a bunch of "steps" to make it work. In stock form a Gerotor pump will eventually self prime. The "prime" procedure is recommended to speed up the building of oil pressure. Think about it. When Ford builds the motor at the factory they don't perform elaborate priming procedure. Ford just starts them up.
When I do these projects I don't "prime" the oil pump through the oil pressure sensor. But I do soak the oil pump in oil before installing. I also fill the oil filer to reduce the time it takes to build oil pressure. And finally I confirm there is fresh oil reaching the top end during the dry cranking process.
Disclaimer: The Gerotor pump has limited ability to create the suction needed to pull oil from the pan. As such, the Gerotor pump would be hugely affected by any leak between the pump and the pick up screen. Bottom line. Any vacuum leak on the suction side of the oil pump would destroy the pump's ability to self prime.
So to me a couple of possibilities come to mind.
Finally I would pull one of the valve covers just to see what it looks like.
Having a result like this always stinks after doing so much work.
See the following article about Positive displacement pumps. See the part about Rotary positive displacement pumps. Note the part about vacuum.
>>Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pump#Positive_displacement_pump
Rotary positive displacement pumps
Rotary vane pump
These pumps move fluid using a rotating mechanism that creates a vacuum that captures and draws in the liquid.
Advantages: Rotary pumps are very efficient because they naturally remove air from the lines, eliminating the need to bleed the air from the lines manually.
Drawbacks: The nature of the pump requires very close clearances between the rotating pump and the outer edge, making it rotate at a slow, steady speed. If rotary pumps are operated at high speeds, the fluids cause erosion, which eventually causes enlarged clearances that liquid can pass through, which reduces efficiency.
When I do these projects I don't "prime" the oil pump through the oil pressure sensor. But I do soak the oil pump in oil before installing. I also fill the oil filer to reduce the time it takes to build oil pressure. And finally I confirm there is fresh oil reaching the top end during the dry cranking process.
Disclaimer: The Gerotor pump has limited ability to create the suction needed to pull oil from the pan. As such, the Gerotor pump would be hugely affected by any leak between the pump and the pick up screen. Bottom line. Any vacuum leak on the suction side of the oil pump would destroy the pump's ability to self prime.
So to me a couple of possibilities come to mind.
- The oil pump is actually working fine and the problem is related to something else.
- The oil pump is defective and no amount of "priming" will make it work.
Finally I would pull one of the valve covers just to see what it looks like.
Having a result like this always stinks after doing so much work.
See the following article about Positive displacement pumps. See the part about Rotary positive displacement pumps. Note the part about vacuum.
>>Wikipedia https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pump#Positive_displacement_pump
Rotary positive displacement pumps
Rotary vane pump
These pumps move fluid using a rotating mechanism that creates a vacuum that captures and draws in the liquid.
Advantages: Rotary pumps are very efficient because they naturally remove air from the lines, eliminating the need to bleed the air from the lines manually.
Drawbacks: The nature of the pump requires very close clearances between the rotating pump and the outer edge, making it rotate at a slow, steady speed. If rotary pumps are operated at high speeds, the fluids cause erosion, which eventually causes enlarged clearances that liquid can pass through, which reduces efficiency.
Last edited:
