Engine Relocate Tfi With '91 F150 Distributor

Discussion in 'Fox Engine Swaparoo' started by IN2DEEP, Nov 4, 2012.

  1. I'm currently running a EFI 5.0 from a '90 Crown Vic in my Jeep. It ran without issues for over 10 years. Then two years ago in the middle of summer, the TFI literally broke in half on the trails. I swapped out the broken Motorcraft module for an AutoZone module, and that lasted for a year or so. This year, I can't seem to find a good module (Autozone or Motorcraft). I've even swapped to a known good distributor/TFI in an effort to get reliable again. So of course I'm looking into doing a remote TFI, to get the module on the fender. At least this would provide me easy access. But hoping it will solve my issue altogether.

    I've seen all the harnesses on the internet for moving the TFI. But I really don't like the "hacked" look of the heat sink, nor the "loose" connectors on the TFI and the distributor (especially on a Jeep that likes to get wet/muddy).

    So I purchased a distributor and remote TFI module, along with some of the wiring from a '91 F150. It's the factory setup and it has the grey module, same as my '90 Crown Vic. So from what I can tell I have a pretty easy swap on my hands. But I'm just curious as to why the internet seems to be full of the extended harnesses, and no mention of the factory remote TFI and distributor. I realize this isn't exactly a "plug and play" swap. However, it seems to be much cleaner and more dependable than three wires with crimped on electrical connections.

    Where is my thinking wrong?...... just looking for input.....

  2. The 91 F150 will have some issues, and I am not even sure you are describing a stock 91 distributor/TFI...

    The TFI is mounted to the dizzy, just like the Crown Vic or the Mustangs up to 93.
    So, if you have something that is remote, it is not from a 91 F150. The 5.0 Stangs started that in 94, and I am not positive the trucks ever went that way. The module and dizzy for remote TFI are totally different than the pre-94 stuff.

    Next issue, the F150 will be a flat tappet cam, so the drive gear on the dizzy will be a different material than your roller cam dizzy.
  3. The distributor is from a '92 F150. I read the door tag of the truck I pulled it from and didn't account for the "model year" compared to the "manufacture date". But either way it is a remote grey TFI module. I went back this weekend, and got the wiring harness so that I can butcher it for my project. There were a couple other similar F150s with the same distributor and grey remote module, along with a couple of newer E150 vans with the remote black module.

    I also have several different wiring diagrams showing the remote TFI for a 92 F150, so I don't think I'm pulling apart a rare truck. I just think too many people are focusing on the mustang distributor as the only alternative, when there may be a more "factory" option.

    Thanks for pointing this out, I'll have to look into the distributor drive gear. I've been so focused on the remote TFI that I haven't been concerned with anything else.

    Thanks for the information. I'm hoping to actually wire this distributor into my Jeep pretty soon. I'll post up my results.
  4. Good luck. I hope it works out for you. I think the remote module is good stuff, but I don't have the comfort level with the electronics to try it.
    Have you googled the idea? I know it is a popular mod among some of the truck guys, I think even Ranger trucks. I read up on it a bit a while back, and got a lot of info from 'alternate' Ford boards (as opposed to Mustang boards).

    There is even some info on modding the 94+ Mustang heat sink to accept a dizzy mounted module and custom wiring diagrams.
  5. Drew I offer one of these kits through Fox Mustang Restorations.http://www.foxresto.com/products/view/1864/1986_93_TFI_Relocation_Kit. The extended harnesses out there are for your benefit. The (blank) TFI Module that you are talking about in most cases just has the wire long enough to go to the fendwell area. The extended harness lets you take it all the way to the front of the car where it will get the maximum cooling effect. The kit I offer includes a tie wrap with a hole through it so you can keep the wires from vibrating loose. You also need to be aware of this... You need to squeeze the factory crimped elecrtical connection when you insert either the male connectors (like in my kit) or the (Dummy TFI module). When you pull the old one off you loosen these connections bro.
    Getting the blanks for me cost the customer more in the end and are not customizeable. The hacked look is all you will find if you are searching in the junkyards bro. I was going to the junkyards myself looking for these factory heatsinks. Here in Chattanooga we have tons of places to choose from. The bad thing is the junkyards are crushing the older cars now days. It is harder and harder to find them and when you do it cost $20.00 and up! I offer an aftermarket heatsink with my kit. I know you were concerned with the crimp ons, but with using the tie wrap and securing the harness to the distributor will remedy this concern. I drive mine daily and have had no problems. I hope you like your kit and I hope that this will clear up some of the questions you may have bro.
  6. Thanks for the reply. I guess the part that is being over looked is that I'm trying to use the factory distributor with the (sealed up) pig tail and the remote grey TFI module mounted in the factory heatsink. I have purchased the distributor, the TFI module and the heatsink from the same truck, so there's no issue there. I just have to compare the wiring of a '92 F150 to my '90 Crown Vic and make the correct connections and I should have a completely sealed "factory" set-up.

    I'm not trying to use a "blank" or "dummy" TFI module to connect to my '90 Crown Vic set up, as both these answers seem to be half of a solution. Yeah, the electronics work but the wiring is questionable.

    I like the idea of using a tie wrap to hold the electrical connections in place. That sure beats worrying about the vibrations dropping the wires out of the distributor. But I have a bigger issue with water coming up there and shorting out the bare connections. That's why I started off trying to use the '94 Mustang distributor as suggested, but it uses a black remote TFI ignition module and requires a bit more re-wiring. Then when I was wandering around the junkyard I found several F150s, with 5.0s and the remote grey TFI module. So I thought I'd give it a shot. It seems as if this was the first step in evolution to getting the module off the distributor, and seems perfect for my engine.

    And I've got a little while before the sun comes back to South Carolina, so I can take some time and get this figured out before it's time to roll in the Jeep.........

    .......... oh... and don't get me started on all the junkyards crushing the "old iron"........ UGH....... just breaks your heart!!! :p

    Thanks guys!
  7. Do you, or anyone you are aware of, make a harness to install a 94-95 TFI distributor and remote module in a Fox?

    I want to do that swap, and have the parts, I just don't know how to modify the wiring.
  8. tfi-module-comparison--new.jpg . This is a diagram of what each wire does that goes to the TFI. Hope this helps! This is a great upgrade and everyone NEEDS to do it. The reason I started production on these customizeable kits was because my car broke down at MUSTANG WEEK! I had a photo shoot with Steve Turner (5.0 Mustang Mag) and the Fox Body cruise the next morning. My car broke down 2 hours before the parts store closed. I troubleshot it in about 1/2 hour with some help from some friends that were there too. That is the 4th TFI I have replaced on that car and did not know why I had to keep replacing them. Well I am a business owner and know when something that someone needs to keep their car going, then I jumped on board. I didn't even bat an eye bro. Matt from FMR is talking to Steve Turner about doing a Tech article on my kit. We will see what happens. Hope you get everything worked out brother!

    Attached Files:

  9. The fact that the dizzy mount module has a PIP in and out, while the SN95 only has a PIP in is what baffles me. The rest looks pretty straight forward.

    Attached Files:

  10. The distributor mount only has the PIP OUT. The signals from the PIP on the SN 95 go to the module INPUT. This tells the module when to fire. On the distributor mounted TFI Module it looks like a sourcing output.