Replace the cam?

[David A]

Don’t know if anyone read a previous post from me about all of my lifters possibly bad on my 289 65 coupe. Anyway they were all bad except for 2.
I had mentioned that the engine had excessive sludge. So anyway after I installed new lifters did an engine flush and three oil changes later, the engine did run much and I mean much better. Now it seems all is not so good again. It won’t keep a constant rpm and is in general not running smoothly..
I haven’t looked yet but I suspect that I have some more bad lifters due to all the sludge that was loosened up. I didn’t change the cam when I replaced them the first time. Should I replace the cam? I’ve heard that you should. What about new valve springs and rockers and pushrods? I pulled the valve cover on one side yesterday and saw that no oil was not getting pumped up to two rockers. The engine is pretty much all stock and has a hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifters. It’s a C code. I’m not thinking about going hi-po or anything like that. At least not now.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.

 

[stormsedge]

Two lifters are cheap...and may have been casualties to your flushing efforts....BUT---

Do you still see sludge residue in the rocker areas and/or in the lifter/intake valley? Did you pull the oil pan and clean it out? My thoughts are you may still be dealing with the sludge issues and throwing more new parts at it without taking some other steps will only serve to raise the $$ bill and increase your frustration. Were it mine, I'd want a look inside the motor to see if the sludge issue is still present in some places... at a minimum, I'd pull the oil pan and have a look...if now clean, make sure the oil pickup screen is clear and I'd pull a couple of bearing caps to check the condition of the bearings. Consider a new oil pump while there...cheap insurance and a casualty to dirty/sludged oil.

What you cannot see are the small oil passages that feed the cam and lifters, etc...they may still have some sludge blockage.

Btw, if the sludge is still causing you issues after three flushes/oil changes....consider pulling the motor for a tear down and a hot tank of the block...lots of work, but would clear the oil passages.

All that said...if you are fairly certain of the success of your de-sludge effort, pop two lifters in and try driving it some more. My thoughts. Hope you find the issue.

 

[Olivethefet]

How many miles are on the engine? I know a complete tare down isn't the route you want to go, but if it's got that much gunk in it a rebuild might be the best option. Otherwise you could be chasing one issue after another for a long time.

 

[Noobz347]

Many things come to mind but I'll be brief:

Add Seafoam to the oil and Fuel system according to directions. Do [not] do this to a full tank of gas. One or two gallons.

The Seafoam in the oil should get the residual crap out of there and maybe even get those two lifters back to working. Another oil change.

A few years ago a friend of mine owned a Ford F-150 that he never changed the oil in. I couldn't believe the thing still ran. I talked him into taking it to an oil change place that has an oil flush system. He clogged 3 of their filters before it was over (a usual job uses 1). He's still riding that truck today.

If you can swing it: That's what I'd recommend above all else. Go get that block filter-cleaned at a Valvoline or Jiffy-Lube. Call around and see who has one.

 

[David A]

Thanks to all for the advice. The pan was pulled earlier and did have sludge that was loosened up. No telling how many miles are on the motor. I talked to one of the previous owners and he said the speedo wasn’t working when he had it.
I’m still wondering that if I change the lifters should I also change the cam as well. I have yet to pull the intake manifold again to see what’s in there.

 

[Noobz347]

Thanks to all for the advice. The pan was pulled earlier and did have sludge that was loosened up. No telling how many miles are on the motor. I talked to one of the previous owners and he said the speedo wasn’t working when he had it.
I’m still wondering that if I change the lifters should I also change the cam as well. I have yet to pull the intake manifold again to see what’s in there.

The only way that you could know that would be to measure the cam with a micrometer and check it against the stock specification. I mean, if you look at teh cam and it's obviously galled then swap it. If it's just normal wear, I wouldn't bother unless you plan to also do heads, intake, throttle body and MAF. At [that] point it would be foolish to skip a bottom end rebuild.

So, the answer is: How far do you want to get into this thing? You could clean it up and do a compression check to see where you are.

 

[Olivethefet]

When did they start putting throttles bodies and MAF on 65s? My 65 just has a low tech Autolite 4bb on it.

 

[Noobz347]

When did they start putting throttles bodies and MAF on 65s? My 65 just has a low tech Autolite 4bb on it.

Doesn't everybody?

 

[2Blue2]

Poor old sludgey motor, It ran lots better then worse, might have burnt a bearing with sludge blockage.

do a compression check to see where you are.

Before you spend another dime do a compression test to see if your wasting your time.
If it passes them be checking condition of mains and rods by pulling caps and looking at them.
With out these basics your just throwing money at it and will never solve its problems.

And post a picture

Throwing a cam at this

Wont get ya this

 

[David A]

The only way that you could know that would be to measure the cam with a micrometer and check it against the stock specification. I mean, if you look at teh cam and it's obviously galled then swap it. If it's just normal wear, I wouldn't bother unless you plan to also do heads, intake, throttle body and MAF. At [that] point it would be foolish to skip a bottom end rebuild.

So, the answer is: How far do you want to get into this thing? You could clean it up and do a compression check to see where you are.

The only way that you could know that would be to measure the cam with a micrometer and check it against the stock specification. I mean, if you look at teh cam and it's obviously galled then swap it. If it's just normal wear, I wouldn't bother unless you plan to also do heads, intake, throttle body and MAF. At [that] point it would be foolish to skip a bottom end rebuild.

So, the answer is: How far do you want to get into this thing? You could clean it up and do a compression check to see where you are.

th

 

[David A]

th

Thanks I will do a compression test. I was thinking of doing another flush and check the pan contents. Then pull the intake and check the lifters again. It’s supposed to get the restoration started in a few weeks and I might tear into the motor further after that.