Sandblasting DIY?

Zooted_plus

New Member
Jan 14, 2003
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Dublin, CA
I've been tearing my '65 coupe down to a shell for a while now, have got just about everytthing minus front suspension/steering stripped from the car. My question is... I have a 40 gal sand blaster.. what grade of sand do I want to buy and roughly how much?? I plan on getting the proper technique down on old parts that I don't plan on reusing before I tackle the parts I am reusing. Any help is appreciated.
 
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I went to Lowes and bought bags of sand off their shelve. IIRC it was medium grit playground sand. The pot size is not as important as the size of your air compressor. I have a 60 gal and it was not big enough. It did the job but I was waiting for the compressor to fill up all the time. I used the biggest blaster that Harbor freight had and I recommend buying a couple of their nozzles they are only about 10 bucks but I wore out a couple of them. You may have to scrape your under coating off first. My blaster wouldn't take it off. When and if I do it again I will rent a big commercial size compressor. It would have only taken me a fraction of the time it took me with my 60 gal compressor.
 
'67 after I scraped the undercoating off:

davidmitchells67087.jpg



After I sand blasted the area:

davidmitchells67104.jpg



With 1st coat of primer applied:

davidmitchells67108.jpg


All of the front end of the engine bay [inside and out], has since been blasted and primed.


I used a Craftsman siphon-feed 120# capacity sand blast hopper [similar to this]:

Campbell Hausfeld 9 Gallon Sand Blaster


My compressor is big enough I never had to stop to wait for it to catch back up so I could continue on:

aircompressor009.jpg

aircompressor008.jpg


This is the main reason I bought a large compressor, since I blast a lot more smaller objects --rather than the occaisional large object like a car:

blastcabinet009.jpg


Until fairly recently, objects like drive shafts or rear end housings had to be blasted outside. I made a modification to my [48"] wide cabinet to make it expandable out to 72" with the adaptable 30-gallon drum [by 14½" diameter] add-on:

beadblastcabinet002.jpg

beadblastcabinet003edit.jpg

beadblastcabinet006.jpg


1960 T-Bird 9-inch rear end housing inside cabinet:

beadblastcabinet007.jpg

beadblastcabinet008.jpg

beadblastcabinet005edit.jpg


When an object will fit inside the cabinet without the need for the extension, the drum can be removed and the hole capped off with the drum head to keep the blast media from building up in the drum:

beadblastcabinet004.jpg


Some of the items shown from the '67 that have been through the bead blaster:

davidmitchells67.jpg
 
Another non-sandblasting method you may want to consider:

73 Mustang Wheel Well Restoration

For smaller parts, I let them sit overnight in a gallon of carb cleaner- then wash with Por15 Marine Clean - then wire brush - then Acid etch with Por15 Metal Ready (which is just Phosphoric Acid) - then finish with etching primer or Por15 converter.

Each method has its pros and cons. Another rust removal option for small parts is electrolysis, but I haven't personally tried that yet.