Sound deadener/heat insulator, what's YOUR experience.

  • Sponsors (?)


IMG_20230411_172921214_HDR.jpg
Well that was fast.
Whats on the inside? Is it bubble wrap?
 
No, it's not bubble wrap or any kind of "bubble" material. Actually, there is no "inside" once the release paper is peeled off.

After removal of the release paper, on the bottom is a butyl-based mastic dampening material and on the top is the aluminum foil protective layer. The bubbles you see are just shaped into the foil layer and are there so you can visually verify correct installation. When the material has been properly rolled out (eliminating any air between the mastic and the substrate), all the bubbles will be flattened out. If there are still bubbles after installation, that would indicate that an area either wasn't pressed down enough or not at all.

After researching these products myself, I ended up buying this same stuff.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
Any reason doing the hatch area now, but skipping the wheel wells will cause me trouble, waste material or give me headaches later? Just occurred to me that I will need to remove both side panels. Maybe next winter I do quarter windows so I prefer to just pull out the panels once.
Also kilmat seems to be plentiful on Amazon again.
 
So i bought a pack and it arrived this morning.
Couple questions.
I did the spare tire well, which was a bit of a pain, maybe that's not the place i should have started, but it got easier as i moved along to flat spots.
Is there a preferred method to lay this stuff?
Are you guys cutting to fit?
Laying and cutting and pulling up the excess?
Overlapping? I didn't do it much, but am i'm obsessing for no reason? The stuff is thinner than i expected, so a little overlap, doesn't seem that bad.

Next question, rear quarter wheel wells, i never realized how open it was.
I bet there is a serious amount of sound coming through there.
Is there something to fill it with?
Almost seems like a place that should be filled with Rockwool or similar.
 
So i bought a pack and it arrived this morning.
Couple questions.
I did the spare tire well, which was a bit of a pain, maybe that's not the place i should have started, but it got easier as i moved along to flat spots.
Is there a preferred method to lay this stuff?
Are you guys cutting to fit?
Laying and cutting and pulling up the excess?
Overlapping? I didn't do it much, but am i'm obsessing for no reason? The stuff is thinner than i expected, so a little overlap, doesn't seem that bad.

Next question, rear quarter wheel wells, i never realized how open it was.
I bet there is a serious amount of sound coming through there.
Is there something to fill it with?
Almost seems like a place that should be filled with Rockwool or similar.
killmats never been hard to find but its about half as thick as noicco stuff i think. These cars had plastic / tar like sheeting with jute backing for deadener in most areas behind the paneling but everyone loved to cut weight and remove that stuff. I wouldn't worry too much about it and over lappinp the killmatt. I get The oem/ body shop style sound deadener from my brother since he has it for work. when I want to do wheel wells, its much thicker, not foil backed. applies with heat and seam sealer, then a spay type liner for the inside of the wells, cuts down on pebble noise with sticky tires after a burn out so works pretty damn good.
 
You do not need 100% coverage. I know it makes for better pics, and that’s what I did, but you don’t need every inch covered to change the resonance of the panel. I think only 25% is really needed. It’s more of where you put the material that counts and not how much.

Post #17 is good info to reference.


When I did my car, I still had the factory sound deadener under the 1/4 panels. So I cut that up and stuffed that into all the voids after the doors both in front and behind the rear tire.

Basically like insulating a house. If there was an air void? I filled it with fluffy insulation.
 
Forgot to add. I took some DB readings this past weekend. I did not get a before/after but I have an inside vs outside.


83-86 decibels outsude at idle. 67-70 decibels inside with the windows up. I can’t tell you if that’s good or not, but there’s some data
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys,
I knew 100% cover wasn't necessary, but it almost feels like cutting corners not doing it.
I don't think i will go this nuts on the entire car, but the hatch area i've always felt was way too loud.
I also did the hatch itself, but i cut pieces like the LMR kit. Basically just the triangles.
 
This stuff is a slippery slope. I should not have started it in the spring.
While i'm well aware that it doesn't need to be everywhere, still bothers me not to.
It involves removing panels and worst of all cleaning locations that have never been cleaned, ever.
Not sure what you guys do, but i have been using random cleaning solutions, then wiping down with rubbing alcohol as if i was laying a decal.
Going to do under the back seat and call it quits for the summer. I have other things to finish up and now i'm messing with sound deadener.

This would have been better as one of my teenage reckless projects, i would have been done in like 2 hours.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
you may laugh but i used the rolls of roofing foil with butyl/tar you get at Home Depot, looked like the same as Killmat and much cheaper. think it was called Frost King or something like that.
I tried that once. While it does offer some deadening, it's no where near as good as the actual products. BUT it's a lot cheaper so what ever works
 
Have read threads on the roofing material starting to stink in high temperatures. I used Dynamat in both my cars as I got it at cost way back in the day. Stuff is way over priced now.
 
I did the frost king stuff in the rear years ago. It definitely helped with the obnoxiously loud 40 series I had on back then. Couldn’t notice the smell over the smell of exhaust without cats, for what it’s worth.