Engine Strange water dripping sound immediately after turning engine off

[Noobz347]

If you find a NOS hose with a restrictor in it, that would be awesome. When I did mine many years ago, I got my part from the Ford parts counter but... No restrictor.

It was somebody on this very site that told me about rescuing the old one.

 

[R82148V]

I'm wondering if he is hearing that 'tic tic tic' sound that contracting metal make when it starts cooling off?

I was thinking that too. It literally sounds like water sprinkling down into a puddle of water which tapers off turning into a few drips sound. Could a leaking heater core do that but not flow out of the fire wall drain or inside the car? I don’t think it’s oil dripping. Could be that AC condenser cylinder thing but The AC is out of R12

 

[R82148V]

I bought this convertible back in 1995. I’m the second owner. I replaced the HC around 98. 2005 was the last year the car was driven. Parked it and it sat until 2019. Been doing a complete restoration on it since then. The HC in there now is 25 years old. I did a flush on it and replaced the HC hoses w/o the restrictor. Should I replace the HC anyway because of age? Or do you feel it’s just an air pocket that I’m hearing And installing the restrictor then burping might be good enough?

 

[Noobz347]

I would purchase one. I would purchase the best unit I could get my hands on and leave it on the shelf until I needed it.

If you're running or plan to run an aluminum radiator, I would buy one made of aluminum.

If you have the OEM or copper radiator, and plan to keep that, I would buy one made of copper [if] I could find one not made in China.

I would then plan to take the OEM unit to a radiator repair shop and have it refurbed to sit on the shelf for the occasion that I need it.

Did you happen to look to see what is involved in changing the heater core? Factory A/C cars are a kind of pain. It's not [bad] but it does require a little bit of planning.

For instance: I went with the airbox modification route when I did mine.

 

[R82148V]

I would purchase one. I would purchase the best unit I could get my hands on and leave it on the shelf until I needed it.

If you're running or plan to run an aluminum radiator, I would buy one made of aluminum.

If you have the OEM or copper radiator, and plan to keep that, I would buy one made of copper [if] I could find one not made in China.

I would then plan to take the OEM unit to a radiator repair shop and have it refurbed to sit on the shelf for the occasion that I need it.

Did you happen to look to see what is involved in changing the heater core? Factory A/C cars are a kind of pain. It's not [bad] but it does require a little bit of planning.

For instance: I went with the airbox modification route when I did mine.

Sounds like a great plan! I replaced the rad already 2 years ago with a 2” aluminum rad made by Champion. The old one incher in there was not original and all clogged up. I’ll make sure to match the HC.

It does have factory A/C and after watching a video from LMR, it does seem extensive but doable. Just wish I replaced it when I had the interior gutting last year

what is an airbox modification?

 

[R82148V]

No restrictor from the factory on my '88. Heater core gave out 2 years ago, so bypassed it with a hose. No heat needed in S. FL.

this bypass works for an 87 fox? What is the model #? If I need to replace the HC, this might be the way to go and wait for winter to tackle this HC project

 

[AeroCoupe]

Quick Google search:

LS LS1 Heater Core Delete Hose - for Water Pump Coolant Bypass

LS Heater Core Delete Bypass Hose Coolant Crossover LT LS1 LSX LS2 LS3 LQ4 LQ9

www.ictbillet.com

 

[Bullitt347]

If the car runs fine, if the coolant level stays the same, if there is no water/coolant on the ground or on the passenger front floorboard, ignore it.
Period. There are more important things to worry about. Like Zombies. Or Joe Biden.

 

[Noobz347]

Zombies. Or Joe Biden

You said the same thing twice.

 

[R82148V]

If the car runs fine, if the coolant level stays the same, if there is no water/coolant on the ground or on the passenger front floorboard, ignore it.
Period. There are more important things to worry about. Like Zombies. Or Joe Biden.

lol hahah

 

[85GTStangGuy]

Here is a link for a replacement if you're searching:

Mustang Heater Core Flow Restrictor (79-04) E7VY-18358

Reduce the coolant pressure flowing into your heater core with this heater core flow restrictor for 1979-2004 Mustang!

lmr.com

Or, if you're a stickler for Ford parts, or particularly want a metal one, or just want to overpay for something, here's the FoMoCo part....

Restrictor, Heater Core Hose Coolant Flow, Original, Prior Part Number E1dz-18d358-A - #M-18D358-1 - National Parts Depot

Buy part #M-18D358-1 Restrictor, Heater Core Hose Coolant Flow, Original, Prior Part Number E1dz-18d358-A for your classic 1981-1988 Mustang from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!

www.npdlink.com

 

[R82148V]

Or, if you're a stickler for Ford parts, or particularly want a metal one, or just want to overpay for something, here's the FoMoCo part....

Restrictor, Heater Core Hose Coolant Flow, Original, Prior Part Number E1dz-18d358-A - #M-18D358-1 - National Parts Depot

Buy part #M-18D358-1 Restrictor, Heater Core Hose Coolant Flow, Original, Prior Part Number E1dz-18d358-A for your classic 1981-1988 Mustang from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!

www.npdlink.com

Hey 85,

I went with the yellow one and picked it up from Blue Oval Industries. It should arrive today. hopefully that will make a difference in this water mystery sound on top of burping the system again. well trying to..

 

[85GTStangGuy]

Hey 85,

I went with the yellow one and picked it up from Blue Oval Industries. It should arrive today. hopefully that will make a difference in this water mystery sound on top of burping the system again. well trying to..

Hey R,
Good deal.... hope it solves your issue.

(I really prefer Ford parts myself, but actually have the plastic one in my parts stash myself.... just not worth it to me for the Ford one, at least not for that particular part. Can't imagine any difference in functionality. Now, the heater core, that is a different subject.... I did pay over 5 times the cost of the aftermarket one for that puppy! )

 

[85GTStangGuy]

If you're running or plan to run an aluminum radiator, I would buy one made of aluminum.

If you have the OEM or copper radiator, and plan to keep that, I would buy one made of copper [if] I could find one not made in China.

What's the rationale behind this? I've not heard of a reason to particularly avoid dissimilar metals in the cooling system. There already are iron blocks and aluminum heads or an intake in the loop.

I have an aluminum radiator and a NOS copper heater core that I plan on using.... are you saying this could be an issue?

I went with the airbox modification route when I did mine.

what is an airbox modification?

Yea, what is the "airbox modification route"? Got a link to a video or post about it?

 

[Noobz347]

I have an aluminum radiator and a NOS copper heater core that I plan on using.... are you saying this could be an issue?

That depends a lot on where you live, how much you drive the car, how often you change fluids, etc...

The other issue is part quality. I've had better luck with aftermarket aluminum pieces than copper. To my knowledge, Ford never made an aluminum OEM piece for a Fox (maybe FMS did?).

Yea, what is the "airbox modification route"? Got a link to a video or post about it?

I'm sure there is. It used to be a hot topic. I'll holler if I come across one with good pics.

 

[AeroCoupe]

So this got me to researching antifreeze and what a person should use if you have aluminum and copper. Basically what it comes down to is the next time my heater core goes out I will be using an aluminum unit and no longer worry about finding the holy grail of copper cores. So this was a good read:

Antifreeze: The Ultimate Guide - Chem Group

chem-group.com

This is what I pulled out of it that caught my attention:

WHY IS ANTIFREEZE DIFFERENT COLORS?​

Both ethylene and propylene glycol are colorless fluids and the anti-corrosive compounds and other additives wouldn’t make much of a difference to their colorless form.
However, given the variation in antifreeze solutions, manufacturers add colors to these mixes, so that it can be easy to differentiate one kind from another.
Basically, coolants come in 3 types:

1. Inorganic acid formula (IAT):​

Used in all cars till the early nineties, this is your basic bright green coolant that is still poured into all older cars manufactured before the mid-nineties, including all domestic vehicles from Ford, GM and Chrysler.
Made by adding phosphates and some amount of silicates to glycol, these low-silicate, conventional antifreeze solutions also have supplemental coolant additives (SCA) in them to protect the engine lining from corrosion.
In fact, it’s the SCA that are the first components of the coolant to get exhausted.
So, these older green fluids need a change every 2 years or 25,000-30,000 miles.

2. Organic acid technology (OAT):​

These coolants turned into the norm around the late-nineties and are still going strong in many newer cars all across the world.
Although devoid of both phosphates and silicates, OAT coolants offer similar corrosion resistance as the green antifreeze mixes.
But the anti-corrosive compounds in these solutions are slow-acting, which gives the product a longer life span.
Also, it is specifically designed to offer anti-corrosive protection to the aluminum and nylon parts in newer model cars.
Originally marketed as “permanent” or “long life” antifreeze, OAT coolants, or Dex-cool as they are commonly known, have to be replaced every 3-5 years.
Another important difference is that unlike IAT coolants, OAT products use propylene glycol as the base, so they are less harmful for pets, kids and the environment in case of a spill or boil-over.
OAT antifreeze mixes are usually orange, yellow or red but also comes in other colors, such as blue, red and very dark green, depending on the variant and the manufacturer.
These coolants are widely available and used in most GM cars and trucks manufactured after 1995 as well as in vehicles manufactured between 1996 and 2001 by Audi, Honda, Jaguar, Kia, Land Rover, Mazda, Nissan, Porsche, Saab, Toyota and VW.

3. Hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT):​

As their name suggests, these coolants combine the best of IAT and OAT products to offer superior corrosion resistance for aluminum parts and rustproofing for iron components.
Typically, dyed yellow or orange, HOAT products are also available in a range of other hues such as pink, purple and blue.
HOAT products are usually referred to as “global” and you will almost always find a label on the packaging which reads, “Meets or exceeds G-05 specifications”.
These antifreeze mixes need to be changed every 5 years and are specified for most cars manufactured after 2002 by Audi, BMW, Chrysler, Ford, Mercedes, Saab, Volvo and VW.
As you may have noticed, color is certainly not a reliable indicator of the type of coolant that you are getting.
The only thing that the different hues are good for is to prevent the inadvertent mixing of two types of products.
So, always read the bottle’s description and match it with coolant specified in the owner’s manual of your vehicle.
If the bottle description has you stumped, don’t take the risk of adding any odd coolant to the reservoir.
Instead, take the trouble of checking with the local mechanic or repair shop.
This may cost you a few bucks, but it will certainly be less expensive than a complete engine overhaul.

CAN YOU MIX ANTIFREEZE COLORS?​

In short: no, you cannot mix different types of antifreeze mixes.
In fact, HOAT coolants are available in at least 3 variants (Silicated HOAT, Phosphated HOAT and Phosphate-free HOAT), and you shouldn’t be mixing together even the variants, let alone the main classes.
Mixing the green with the orange or orange with the blue/yellow, etc. will lead to a chemical reaction in the reservoir.
This causes the formation of brown, gelatinous sludge in the reservoir and the radiator that can completely block the cooling system over time.

Anyhow, this should get most of you started down a rabbit hole similar to mine.

 

[85GTStangGuy]

To my knowledge, Ford never made an aluminum OEM piece for a Fox (maybe FMS did?).

One that I know of.... the 1993 Cobra R came with an aluminum radiator.

 

[Dan02gt]

Hello all,

I have a strange one for you. I could be again over thinking it or perhaps there's and issue brewing.
I've started to notice a strange water draining then dripping type sounds once the engine is turned off.
It doesnt ever over-heat with gauge right in the middle. I checked the coolant level and its to the top. At running temp, coolant does expand in the expansion tank.
Oil looks good. Oil pressure is mid to a little upper on the stock gauge.
The sound is more concentrated on the passenger side I feel.
Would this just be oil draining back into the pan or something I should be worried about?

I'm not too sure if this always happened or just started. In any case, I hear it now haha but only with the hood up as I turn it off.

what does everyone think or what should I check?

Mine does the same thing and like you it seems to be coming from the passenger side. I think it’s oil draining back into the pan from the heads but who knows.

 

[R82148V]

Mine does the same thing and like you it seems to be coming from the passenger side. I think it’s oil draining back into the pan from the heads but who knows.

Yeah, it sounds like that for sure. I thought oil was too thick to sounds like that so I figured it was coolant dipping in the HVAC box where the Heater Core is but I'm not losing coolant or have anything leaking from the core. I'm still going to replace the core as a winter project since its its over 25 years old. I'm also going to install that restrictor to protect the new HC.

Make me feel better that someone else has the same sound..

 

[AeroCoupe]

When motor oil heats up it runs like water.