Sub Frame Questions
- Thread starter Ls1bozo
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
If this is stock or mild build weld in subs are good with seat braces, if your going for the 6.0 turbo like you mentioned in the welcome threads I would recommend the full monte, full length sub frame with the extra braces that connect the outside pinch welds to the main frame, most here would probably recommend Maximum Motorsports, they offer kits for a variety of driving styles.
There are others of course but M&M stuff are
tossed about here alot.
And welcome to stangnet.
There are others of course but M&M stuff are
tossed about here alot.
And welcome to stangnet.
Already went with the turbo lol. It's going to be a street/strip but end up more or less on the strip with slicks
Attachments
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Looks like A lot of work but prolly strong and better. I'm just trying to do as much work as possible because I'm not installing a roll cage in it so I was the frame as sturdy as possible till I decide to do that.
IMO, it is the strongest way to reinforce the subframe, but it is a lot more work than welding on full length connectors. That picture karthief posted is of my current project. If you need any pictures of what I'm doing for reference, check out my build thread in my sig. I have tons more pictures here http://www.coyotemuscle.com/images/personal/
Not too going to lie that looks like alooooot of work lol. You did that your sekf?
It is but it's worth it in the end IMO, especially if your not doing a full cage. I'm kind of in the same boat as you, my car is going to be mainly a street vehicle but I still want to be able to track it once in awhile. I'm going to be putting in a roll bar and some additional pieces but am staying away from a full cage, so I want to make the chassis as strong as possible without a halo and uprights. My setup might be a little overkill for you since my car is being setup for road racing (and I'm really particular), but the basic main rails and outriggers add a WORLD of difference in chassis rigidity. And yes, that's all my work.
So you made all of that? Can u buy pre made? I would rather do that and then have my fab guy install
Yeah, I fabbed all that up. The stock I used was just two 12' pieces of 2x3 rectangular .083 mild-steel tubing, a 1'x2' piece of 11 gauge plate, and a 1'x2' piece of 10 gauge plate. The 11 gauge plate is for the corner plates and the 10 guage plate is for the rear seat bulkhead plates.
I believe team-z and wolfe race craft sells a through the floor subframe kit. There may be others. I have my setup engineered and documented and have thought about fabbing them and selling them, that just requires time I can never seem to find.
There are a lot of different ways to do through the floor subframes, my way is just the way I decided to go.
@Hoytster 's way of doing connectors is really, really spectacular. I may emulate that myself soon on my old turd.
But a nice set of maximum motorsports full length sfc's, plus maybe the ladder bracing of Stifflers will lock up your body pretty tight.
There's all sorts of bracing that you can add. There are lots of flex points that can be shored up. Do a little reading through Maximum Motorsports website and maybe Stifflers, Kenny Brown and others out there....one of my favorites as far as drag racing, Wildrides
.
But a nice set of maximum motorsports full length sfc's, plus maybe the ladder bracing of Stifflers will lock up your body pretty tight.
There's all sorts of bracing that you can add. There are lots of flex points that can be shored up. Do a little reading through Maximum Motorsports website and maybe Stifflers, Kenny Brown and others out there....one of my favorites as far as drag racing, Wildrides
.Similar threads
