Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - final sheet metal repairs
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wicked93gs
15 Year Member
Even completely sideways the car doesn't hit 7'(though it is within a couple inches). At least on the rotisserie I am using, which has a 38" pivot point. That being said...you can also make your own rotisserie with a lower pivot point....even out of wood. You also dont need the turn the car completely sideways unless flipping it upside down...and even if you do flip it upside down you can just roll it out of the garage, flip it, then roll it back in. The point is a 7' roof should not prevent you using a rotisserie.
My car is 72" (6') wide and ceiling is 90" that leaves me 18". Figure at least 2" between body and rotisserie and 2" between the ceiling that leaves me needing a rotisserie that's not taller, at the front to back brace, than about 13". You could be correct. I'll need to look into the height of the brace. When you get yours let me know the height from floor to top of brace. I need to be able to spin it inside as my driveway slopes about 5° down from garage door. So without a few friends it would be hard to push back in. Of course I could try to come-along it back in. Thanks
Just purchased the wire and associated items today. I've decided to forgo the sub panel this time around. It's a great idea, but I really don't need that kind of support in this garage. Separate 240V circuits for the compressor and welder along with the existing 120V outlets in the garage (4) will be just fine for what I'm doing.
I ended up having to get way more wire than I needed since they didn't have the 10/2 or 8/3 by the foot. No 100' bundles of 10/2, so I ended up getting the 250' bundle that was only about $20 more than the 100' version. I'll keep the extra for when we eventually move and I'll need to install more new outlets, probably.
The plan will be using THHN wire (the spools you see on the bench) in conduit through the soffit as was recommended to a junction box in the attic where it will switch to standard romex.
This is gonna be fun!
I ended up having to get way more wire than I needed since they didn't have the 10/2 or 8/3 by the foot. No 100' bundles of 10/2, so I ended up getting the 250' bundle that was only about $20 more than the 100' version. I'll keep the extra for when we eventually move and I'll need to install more new outlets, probably.
The plan will be using THHN wire (the spools you see on the bench) in conduit through the soffit as was recommended to a junction box in the attic where it will switch to standard romex.
This is gonna be fun!
Spent the rest of my free time this evening stripping the front seat frames. These things are crazy rusty near the bottom. The seat bracket came off the passenger side and will need to be re-welded.
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
I have yet to do that task...restored the seat rails, but the 67 cougar buckets I have as the base have frames that look about the same as those, decided to wait till I have the sandblaster set up for it.
horse sence
15 Year Member
Maaaaaaaannnnn... I just wired my shop. Sub panel is far and away the best route. Kind of a pain at first, but if your main panel has the capacity, I highly recommend it!
Trust me, I’ll be doing electrical overkill whenever I get a shop built. Probably won’t be until after I leave the military.
I got about halfway done before calling it quits when it got too hot in the attic. I got the conduit and THHN wire pulled. Tomorrow I'll finish installing the junction box in the attic, run the romex wire, install the outlets, and finally install the new breakers. I already drilled a hole in the top of the frame in the attic and cut the holes in the drywall for the new outlets. Should be pretty quick tomorrow.
horse sence
15 Year Member
While I've been incredibly lazy lately, I have managed to order the last of the structural bits I need along with some new tools. A new welding gas regulator should be arriving today, and a nice mini DA sander I ordered arrived yesterday. I'll start with removing the remaining bits of the radiator support and fender aprons after I get it off the cart and leveled on jacks. I'm doing things a bit different with the aprons/support. I'm going with the factory style on the driver's side, but I'm going to be installing a '67-'68 battery apron and radiator support to take advantage of the larger radiator opening. This will require more work to make fit, but it'll be worth it! The rotisserie was backordered and hasn't yet shipped.
Well, the radiator support and battery apron arrived today. The apron is a decent stamping and thickness. It'll need some work, but will do fine. The radiator support, on the other hand, is an incredibly low quality stamping. I already submitted a return request and will be ordering a Dynacorn reproduction that comes with the cross member. I won't be using the cross member, but the stamping looks way better than this piece.
Grab your surfboard! Check out these waves!
Grab your surfboard! Check out these waves!
Trace that wavy rad support on to a big piece of cardboard . Then make your own fancy smancy one outta aluminum or something lol
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
Was that the CJ one? Because if so I bought that same one and it was excellent quality with no waves(I didn't want the one-piece ever since I had trouble with torque boxes and had to cut the spot welds on one side to install it correctly)
It was. My main concern with this one in addition to the waviness is how soft the bends are. It's a mushy stamping.
My experience so far has been that Dynacorn parts are typically much better stamped. Sometimes I'll order the CJ Classics branded parts since they're sometimes be Dynacorn parts. It's hit or miss. When I did torque boxes, I ordered the '67-'68 Dynacorn pieces that weren't welded together. They screwed up and sent me a '69-'70 set that had the parking break pass-through on the driver's side. It still fit just fine.
