Thinking about suspension upgrades

LaserSVT

Got FB banned again for saying nards
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
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There is really nothing wrong with what I have and I dont think I have found the limits of my current suspension setup. Its predictable, flat, rear dosent "snap" when she lets go and the ride is great. I lack a few bits thogh that I am wondering if they will be an enhancement or not for what I have.
The Cobra is my weekend toy and wont see DD duty unless my Lincoln is down. I dont intend on competing professionally with it but would enjoy a few laps every now and then on a SCCA Solo event :nice:

The pieces I dont have are a tubular K-member and I still have the stock sway bars and I dont have a roll cage but have no plans for one eaither.

What I do have is:
Kenny Brown:
Strut Tower
Shock Tower
4-point K-member brace
FLSFC with seat braces
Steeda:
CC plates
Sport Springs
Bilstien shocks/struts
offset rack bushings (aluminum)
offset control arm bushings
IRS bushings
Bump steer
X2 ball joints
Battery relocation to pass side trunk
IRS brace (on order)

And my wheel/tire combo is
19" HRE 3-piece, deep dish in rear. Michilen PS2 265/35 in front and 295/35 in rear.
I will prolly be switching to 18" FR 500s and 275s up front and 315 or 325 BFG out back but im not sure yet :shrug:


So my question is, will a tubular K-member be a good upgrade for a road toy and will I get better response without unpredictable behavior with larger sway bars? Should I just leave it alone since I am happy with its abilities as is.... I would like the rear to stay planted a little better on the corners :nice:

Also on a new series G-Tech it did an average 1.28gs and spiked at 1.8gs , I dont know how accurate they are but we followed the instructions on set up and all :shrug:
 
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Save your money. You'll probably never push your car to the point where you'd notice the difference between a tubular and the stock K. Plus from what I hear if you ever get in a crash you also lose some crumple zone rigidity in the front end when using an aftermarket K member.

U.M.
 
If you are happy with the car then the best mod is more track time. The loose nut behind the wheel always needs work. If you really must do more things to the car then...

Switch to the 18" rims. Bigger rubber up front. It must under steer real bad with those small tires. Get rid of the offset rack bushings and go to just straight non offset one. Trade those steeda CC plates for MM 4 bolt ones. Your sway bars are fine. If you can move the battery more centered like behind the passenger seat it would help. The polar momentum is bad with it in the trunk. Drycells are good. If you switch your K member then you might as well do Tube A's and coilovers. MM or Griggs. If you are going to do all that then look into the Agent 47 SLA set up.
 
Thanks Duke :nice:
I was thinking of moving the battery to there but I couldnt pull it out of the box without hitting the shelf (car still has Mach system) Its a toy and not a track car nor will I make it one but I do want to go to the track occasionally. It did take me a bit before I got pretty good with my Fox and my Turbo 300Z at the track but have never driven anything like this beast on a track so I agree big time, I need to learn the car and its weak spots before I go throwing mor money at it :nice:
Also, for me to switch to 4 bolt CC plates I would have to ditch or drill out the strut tower bar and kinda want to avoid that.
Why should I switch to non ofset bushings on the rack? i though with a car as low as mine it was a good thing to help against bumpsteer? And I havent noticed any understeer but the cars limits are just too high to really push on the street but if I were to push it on the track it would prolly become more pronounced :shrug:
My 19" wheel are really light, lighter then the OEM 17" Cobra wheels. I would like to get a 275/35/19 in the front but it rubs on dips now, not the fenders cause they have been rolled but on the fender apron, guess it will rub through at some point :D