thumper/tmoss combo at track=not happy

When I put my car back together after swapping the stock stuff for a Thumper/Tmoss combo I was only running on 7 cylinders, and chased that problem for a little while and it turned out I never plugged the number 4 injector plug back onto the injector. Man did I feel dumb. But holy cow, that car took off when it was running on all 8!
 
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Had to order the inj. noid's they come in tomarrow. I pulled the upper intake and looked at the wires/inj. no leaking fuel, the harness was on correct. I put some elec. contact stuff on the connnections and will see what happens whan I hook up the noids and crank it over. Should know at that point if I have power getting to the inj. or not.
 
The inj. noid lights up on 6&7. I did put some electric grease on it though. Going to start it up and pull the plug wires on 6 & 7 and see if it has an effect now, to see if it was an issue of poor connection (and the grease fixed it). Otherwise I am pulling the inj. and getting them sonic cleaned and flow ball. At least I know things are ok up to the inj. as far as elec. goes.
 
blksn955.o said:
The inj. noid lights up on 6&7. I did put some electric grease on it though. Going to start it up and pull the plug wires on 6 & 7 and see if it has an effect now, to see if it was an issue of poor connection (and the grease fixed it). Otherwise I am pulling the inj. and getting them sonic cleaned and flow ball. At least I know things are ok up to the inj. as far as elec. goes.

Greg

Sounds like you know you got fire to inj 6 & 7.

If after you do the pull the plug wire test thing and you see no change you could always swap inj 6 & 7 with two other inj's and see what happens.

Later
Grady
 
ran it for a few min. and then drove it around the block (didnt get out of 2nd if I even got into it). pulled into the driveway and let it cool off.

Checked the plugs on 6 & 7 and there is now fuel "stains" on them both. Looks like I am now getting fuel. :banana: :banana:

However, now I am getting a friggan CEL (dont even think I am supposed to with the tweecer installed).***Final5.0- if the checksum is set to 0 I should not be getting a CEL right? Any ideas on that if I am not supposed to/ If I still can get CEL how would I check the codes?
 
blksn955.o said:
ran it for a few min. and then drove it around the block (didnt get out of 2nd if I even got into it). pulled into the driveway and let it cool off.

Checked the plugs on 6 & 7 and there is now fuel "stains" on them both. Looks like I am now getting fuel. :banana: :banana:

However, now I am getting a friggan CEL (dont even think I am supposed to with the tweecer installed).***Final5.0- if the checksum is set to 0 I should not be getting a CEL right? Any ideas on that if I am not supposed to/ If I still can get CEL how would I check the codes?

Greg

Looks like your making progress :banana:

About the cel

Just cause you got a Tweecer and have set that scalar to a 0.0 value doesn't mean you can't get a cel.

I feed my wb's output through the egr pcm input so the af ratio shows up in my datalogs. I've had the pcm throw me a cel 2 or 3 times over the past couple of years. The code is about egr output not what the pcm expects to see or something like that. The wb output must not quite match the egr output every once and a while. Its no biggy to me but it does show that we can still get a cel.

Its been so long since I ran some of those codes I don't remember the exact procedure. You jump a couple of wires in that diagnostic thingy by the passenger shock tower and turn the key on and count the number of times the cel flashes or something kinda like that......Sorry I just don't remember.

If someone does not give more accurate info its on this site or the Corral I think.

You can check em with a code scanner as well if you can get ahold of one.

Again, glad to see your getting things sorted out :D

Later
Grady
 
tmoss said:
Did you do a continuity check on the spark plug wires for 6 & 7?


I bought new FMS 9mm wires, and hooked the inductive timeing light to 6 & 7 to see if it was picking up a signal. The light did in fact pick up a signal. Without an ohm meter of my own (could barrow the father in laws snap-on one at any time but thats 30-45min away) I fig the inductive light would be a quick go-no go way to test it.
 
final5-0 said:
Greg

Looks like your making progress :banana:

About the cel

Just cause you got a Tweecer and have set that scalar to a 0.0 value doesn't mean you can't get a cel.

I feed my wb's output through the egr pcm input so the af ratio shows up in my datalogs. I've had the pcm throw me a cel 2 or 3 times over the past couple of years. The code is about egr output not what the pcm expects to see or something like that. The wb output must not quite match the egr output every once and a while. Its no biggy to me but it does show that we can still get a cel.

Its been so long since I ran some of those codes I don't remember the exact procedure. You jump a couple of wires in that diagnostic thingy by the passenger shock tower and turn the key on and count the number of times the cel flashes or something kinda like that......Sorry I just don't remember.

If someone does not give more accurate info its on this site or the Corral I think.

You can check em with a code scanner as well if you can get ahold of one.

Again, glad to see your getting things sorted out :D

Later
Grady


Thanks Grady, didnt know if tweecer or EA could read the eec and tell me without hooking up a scan tool, I did see that EA has a list of codes once you get the code out of the eec.

Speaking of EGR stuff I went out to mess with it and found the EGR was not plugd' in :bang: :doh: :rlaugh: . It was getting late so I have not had a chance to make sure there is nothing else but preaty sure that would cause it.
 
blksn955.o said:
.........Without an ohm meter of my own (could barrow the father in laws snap-on one at any time but thats 30-45min away) I fig the inductive light would be a quick go-no go way to test it.

It's not a very good test. The wire could be much too high in resistance and produce a very weak spark, but the inductive pickup will flash the bulb. I was in Lowes this weekend and you can get a good multimeter for less than $20. Not tool box should be without one.
 
What would a good reading be on a set of new plug wires? or should I go to FMS's web site and look and see if my readings match up to what they say they read at (if any numbers are given)? I think I have the issues sorted out, I will have to treat the car to another dyno session after I grad./get married on the 14th.

P.S. yes I do need to just break down and go buy one badly.
 
Most are specified in ohms/kilohms per foot. If you don't know the exact spec, you can still get an idea by measuring their length and then their resistance to compare between the wires. They should be close in ohms/foot.

If your out my way on a drive, stop by and we'll check em out.
 
I am not realy worried if the wires may be bad as they are brand new (not even 30 days old) FMS ones. I just like to tinker with meters :D and on the subject of testing plug wires I have never heard the correct way to test them with a meter. Again thanks Tmoss for the info and offer to help. I will be swapping to the 1.7rr later this summer (after I go to the track and get some better base line numbers with the 1.6's) so I will take you up on that lifter in a few months.

On a side note when I pulled the plug wires on 6 & 7 each one shot a spark about 2-3in across to the header tubes until I got it out around/away from the oil dip stick.

Going to drive it around the block and maybe down the street to the hwy and datalog things now that everything seems to be getting fuel/spark now as I am sure my old datalogs are junk taking into account only 6cyl were working properly.
 
I drove it maybe 3miles in the last month, its been nuts for me. I grad-im-a-tated college and got married on the 14th of may (yes the same friggan day) and have been looking for an entry level job so I just have not had the time to drive it much.

I do plan on taking it to the dyno again, and hope to get it to the track in June. However, I do need to get my plates re-newed as they expired last June (right after I put it up to put in the new motor) and need to drive it to my brothers property that is in an area that does not have smog tests. Swapping plates to draw less attention to myself from my daily driver is stupid and I dont want to push my luck.