Want to upgrade/update my '66 GT brakes - ideas?

66coupe351

Founding Member
Aug 24, 2001
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Los Angeles, CA
I have a decent condition '66 GT coupe that needs better brakes. It currently has the stock front disk / rear drum / single bowl master cylinder, and doesn't stop very well. I don't really know what the problem is but the brakes don't seem to have much stopping power and if you try to stop moderately fast the rears lock up too easily.

I tried to bleed the brakes recently and found that the bleeder screws in both front calipers wouldn't budge at all. Ended up tearing up the bleeder screws and still couldn't get them to move.

So, I think it would be a good idea to replace the entire brake system. It is all very old. Some has been replaced over the years(I rebuilt the front calipers about 10 years ago), but it is all currently stock style, if not completely 40 year old stock.

I have an idea of what I would like, but am looking for comments from people on what has worked for you and where you got it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would like a good working system that will fit in my 15" Torque Thrust wheels, but am not looking for a super high-end/high-cost system.

I've been looking a lot at mustangdepot.com and some of the SSBC stuff.

I was thinking of stock style front calipers and disks. I see remanufactured ones for $350/pair, new ones for $376/pair, and new aluminum ones for $538/pair. Anyone know about the quality of any of these choices? Sounds like the new ones would be the way to go as long as the build quality matches the original. I don't see many other options for disk/calipers unless I go bigger - and those won't fit in my wheels.

New dual bowl master cylinder. I need to do a little more research, but besides a slightly different bore diameter they look very similar. Something that looked interesting was the Power Brake Conversion I saw at mustangdepot. For around $310 they have a dual bowl MC and brake booster that they claim actually fits the car without pounding on the shock tower. This seems interesting - anyone have any experience with this.

New brakes lines everywhere, new distribution block. Don't know much about these, so probably just get whatever looks good and is recommended from where ever I buy the bigger parts.

Rear brakes - really not sure if I want to rebuild the stock drums or go with a disk conversion. Looks like a basic conversion kit is about $650. I know a properly adjusted drum system is supposed to work as well as disk, but the disk setup seems better and simpler.
 
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I went with the SSB alum replacement calipers, new rotors, and steel braided lines. Also swapped the single bowl for a '67 dual master cylinder. My old calipers had 1-2 frozen pistons on each, contributing to poorer stopping power. To really get good stops, go with the booster. The only potential issue is adequate vacuum to run the booster - no big cams (else run a vacuum can or electric pump to supply vacuum).

I'm going to use Explorer rear discs on my 9" when it goes in. You can send Billgear a PM and ask him about upgrading your rear drums, if you like. He was road racing his early model with upgraded pads and such and not complaining.
 
I installed the PBC-A1 kit on My GT

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/pwr-brake-conv.htm

I removed the old valve and installed a proportioning valve from a 70's RWD ford. I installed all new hard lines except the two in the engine compartment. Also new stainless braided flex hoses front and rear.

The PBC-A1 kit does fit with no mods, other than the brake lines. If you still have an old pressure brake switch, you'll have to do some additional plumbing or switch to a brake pedal mounted one.
 
Thanks for the replies.

So, it sounds like a stock style caliper is the way to go unless you want to get really crazy. I hadn't seen any other options for upgraded calipers so thought I would see if anyone else knew of other options. When I rebuilt my current ones a decade ago they had a few stuck pistons and may have a few again.

Tim, glad to hear the booster/MC fit as it was supposed to. Was it a big improvement? My cam isn't too wild, so I should have enough vacuum for it.
 
M-Detail in Riverside, CA also has a booster that fits early models. I drove the owners car that has disc fronts and drum rears and it stopped very well. You might give them a shout ((951) 686-3929).
 
"Tim, glad to hear the booster/MC fit as it was supposed to. Was it a big improvement? My cam isn't too wild, so I should have enough vacuum for it."

Prior to the booster the car would "crawl" at lights unless I put a lot of pressure on the pedal. The first (and only) time my wife drove it, she thought something was wrong with the brakes and it scared her. The power booster brought the car into the future. It stops very well and I don't have to put no where near as much pressure as before.

Yes, it was a BIG improvement, and with the dual MC & proportioning valve, I'll still have some brakes if I have any problem.

Some tips... if possible, buy the brake lines with the fittings installed and flared. Bending them into shape is easy. Flaring the ends correctly is not. I know Checker and Pep Boys sells them in various lengths and with various fittings. Be careful you don't buy any metric fittings.