what degree thermostat to use? 195* or 180* please help

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Don't bother with worrying about the rating as much as the target temp. Some guys run a 160* stat and operate at 210*F. Others run a 195* stat and run right at 195*.

Use what works best for your combo. Were it me and I was where you live (LA), I'd go for the 180*. But if you have a very adequate cooling system, the 195 is cool (optimal coolant temps are said to be 190-210*F).

Good luck.
 
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When I first installed my 180* thermostat, my car ran slightly cooler. It normally ran just above the midway point on the gauge, after the 180* stat, it ran just slightly below the midway point.

Of course this is with the stock gauge, so take it with a grain of salt.
 
An old racer's trick in stock class is to use the 180F or lower to fool the computer into thinking it's still cold and run a bit richer for slightly more performance.

(You can get a better constant rich condition by simply unplugging the O2 Sensor wire for short drag race runs. It takes 5 minutes from cold start for an O2 sensor to "lightoff" and affect the mixture to lean anyhow in a normal engine.)

A. You will get lower gas mileage slightly but better WOT performance.

B. This might cause you some issues during an emissions test requiring a fully hot engine? So you should change it back to 195F before your test.

C. Either 180 or 195F both work well. So depends on if you live in an emissions State or not?
 
HEGO's light off in 30-120 seconds. That's the whole point. It can take EGO's factors longer.

O2 readings are largely ignored at WOT so I dont understand that argument.

FWIW, the engine can go lean at around 170*F at the ECT because the EEC wants it to warm up just a bit more.
 
if you trick the computer and make the engine run richer... won't that reduce performance??

Normally one advances the base timing up to 3 degrees to utilize the richer mixture and still not activate a knock sensor. Agree lean is fast but also can create alot of heat and damage. I prefer to err on the conservative side myself. It's not awe inspiring but a few 1/100's of a second in a stock class is winning vs. who finished 2nd?
 
An old racer's trick in stock class is to use the 180F or lower to fool the computer into thinking it's still cold and run a bit richer for slightly more performance.

(You can get a better constant rich condition by simply unplugging the O2 Sensor wire for short drag race runs. It takes 5 minutes from cold start for an O2 sensor to "lightoff" and affect the mixture to lean anyhow in a normal engine.)

A. You will get lower gas mileage slightly but better WOT performance.

B. This might cause you some issues during an emissions test requiring a fully hot engine? So you should change it back to 195F before your test. (Or just unplug the O2 wire.)

C. Either 180 or 195F both work well. So depends on if you live in an emissions State or not?

As JT said, HEGO's kick off pretty quick...
A. Yes, you will lose mpg, However... there is no guarantee you will gain performance by removing the O2's. I would say 50/50 on gain power/lose power.

B. I doubt you will pass emissions without the O2's. EEC-V no way, as they should be checking for codes... EEC-IV - If the rest of the 'TUNE' is correct, then the car could pass without the O2's. But if anything is slightly out of whack, as it usually will be with evenly a slightly modified Mustang, it is doubtful the car will pass emissions without O2 sensors.

C. Both stats should pass emissions. A 195F stat should make it easier if you are pushing the limit on HC's though.

I'm not trying to be argumentative, or a jerk...
I just wanted to offer my thoughts on the items you brought up.
Which are all good aspect to be thinking about BTW.


jason