WHATS THE PROBLEM.

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What was your reaction time? 60 ft. time? It could be traction, a bad clutch, a bad driver lol. Flowmasters are not the end all and be all of mods, all they really do is make your car loud until you get to higher mod levels where that extra flow actually helps. A cold air intake is the same deal. It looks nice, flows better, but a stock motor already flows like crap as it is. Not knocking you, because I have both of those mods (I just swapped my flows for MACs.). Give us more info bro.
 
Either you were short shifting it or you were spinning tires because your 60' is a little high. you should shift around 5200, that's when a stock motor starts to fall flat. Gears will definitely help with that time though. With practice, you might even get into the 14s as is.
 
That's major short shifting, because it's lower than your powerband peak, and the stock tach is very inaacurate, so odds are you were shifting between 2900-3900. That's too low, that's almost like street driving. You want to push the car hard on the track. I'd say to shift around 6500 by the stock tach, which will be about 5000 (I know, because at the dyno my stock tach was saying 6500 and I was at 5000 according to their much better equipment.)
 
definetly shifting too low. like said above shift around 5k. you dont need to really launch, just let the clutch slip a little bit coming off the line while giving it more gas than usual, you want to be at the point where the tires want to break loose but dont. than shift fast and hard
 
Or do what I do: Never let off the gas when you shift. It's called powershifting, and yeah, for your clutch and tranny it's suicide, but it's fun. Actually, don't do it. You'll be like me with a busted T-5 limping around under your car. Only way to do it with a stock T-5 is to get an aftermarket shifter with shift stops so you don't bend the forks inside the tranny. There's no way for it to not beat on your clutch, though, because clamping down on a flywheel turning 4000 RPM is going to hurt.
 
astronut1885 said:
That's major short shifting, because it's lower than your powerband peak, and the stock tach is very inaacurate, so odds are you were shifting between 2900-3900. That's too low, that's almost like street driving. You want to push the car hard on the track. I'd say to shift around 6500 by the stock tach, which will be about 5000 (I know, because at the dyno my stock tach was saying 6500 and I was at 5000 according to their much better equipment.)


Not knocking you but suggesting to a newer racer to shift at 6500 rpm seems a little reckless. Sure, your tach was proven to be off by 1000 rpm on a dyno, but that doesnt mean his is off by that much. With his luck, his tach will be close to accurate and he will throw a bearing or a rod at 6500 actual rpm and will go from trouble shooting his racing slip to rebuilding his 14 year old motor.

Controling wheel spin is the single biggest factor in getting a lower 60 foot time. Dont worry about your reaction time or the guy lined up next to you. Just concentrate on your launch, or more accurately, your pull away with street tires, and then your getting on the throtle hard and shifting at between 5000 and 5200 (or by sound if you are familiar with when too much is too much). Better yet, if you plan on doing a good bit of racing, get a nice tach and shift light.

I'm no expert, but I feel confident in the info listed above.

I'm looking forward to getting to a local 1/8th mile course soon myself.

Good luck!
 
My suggestion was just that, a suggestion. I've seen a few fox cars with tachs as far off as mine, so I wouldn't doubt his to be off. On top of that, he'd never get to 6500 true RPM, because the rev limiter kicks in at 6250. I might not be an expert, but I don't talk out of my ass either.
 
No need to be so defensive. He obviously is a beginner and just needs some sound, thoughtful advice, which I was trying to help him with. Bringing a stock 5.0 to anything above approx. 5000 rpm is a waste of gas, time (hp and torque drop off), longevity, and possibly the motor's structural integrity. Just my 2 cents.