Will My Crank Break? (need help kinda quick please)

[bluevenom867]

The stock crank will be fine.The stock rods will be fine,just have them resize them and put arp bolts in them.You can also have them shot peened for a better finish.

Arnt the oil holes chamfered from the factory?

 

[txstang84]

yeah, they are, a little bit, but alot of people will give them a little more...

 

[Rick 91GT]

oil holes are chamfered stock, the oil holes in the the mains, feed the holes in the rods.

Like stated above stock rods are forged, and the ARP 5/16" bolt will be fine. If you want to spend the money on aftermarkets rods and crank you should just go with a stroker. You can't judge by appearance, brand to brand varies along with there machining procedures.

I assume with the new rod bolts, pistons etc you are having it re-balanced, you may find some holes in the crank counter weights that are from the balancing, standard procedure.

The powedered metal rods can actually be strong and are standard in Lightnings and almost all mod motors, they do have there limit however.

Here's a few pics of the oil passages and chamfers in a Eagle 4340 Internal Balance Crank and a DART Iron Eagle.

ANDY, did the pics of your baby come through, I sent them a few days ago?

 

[Daggar]

ANDY, did the pics of your baby come through, I sent them a few days ago?

Nada. I figured that you were busy and hadn't gotten around to it.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Nada. I figured that you were busy and hadn't gotten around to it.

check your junk mail, they came from my work account I was having issues here at home but it is all good. They came from [email protected]

 

[89white50]

there were definately oiling holes in the rod/main journals of the FRRP crank i got when rebuilding my 302. those guys are donkeys

 

[Daggar]

Rick..

Nothing in there either. I'll send that email addy a message to ensure that you have the correct one at work.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Rick..

Nothing in there either. I'll send that email addy a message to ensure that you have the correct one at work.

I'll resend them tomorrow morning

 

[Daggar]

I'll resend them tomorrow morning

Sweet thanks. I've also been kicking around the idea of maybe adding a bit of the funny gas ontop of the KB at full tilt. It will depend on how much injector is left once tuning of the KB is complete. It'll be kind of a shame to finally have a block capable of 1000+ and be nowhere near that.

 

[bluevenom867]

Sweet thanks. I've also been kicking around the idea of maybe adding a bit of the funny gas ontop of the KB at full tilt. It will depend on how much injector is left once tuning of the KB is complete. It'll be kind of a shame to finally have a block capable of 1000+ and be nowhere near that.

Hehehe

 

[Rick 91GT]

We can change that you know can you say "F1R" ....lol

I still think I can make enough power to scare you.

 

[Daggar]

We can change that you know can you say "F1R" ....lol

I still think I can make enough power to scare you.

LOL... I think that we will be in range then.

 

[TrickFlow]

Thank you guys for all of your input. im going to try to get donw there today and snap some pics for you to check out. the more ive been thinkin about it, im not going to buy a crank and rods. i have 10:1 pistons, so id have to sell those too, and im just tired of this thing not running yet.

 

[tjm73]

I would not have much confidence in the machinist if I were in your shoes.

Sounds like they are trying to give you a screw job to me.

 

[SQUEEZE&STROKE]

well my post probably wont make you too happy. alot of guys have no probs with the stock shortblock, however, I have a friend with a H/C/I 302 and an s-trim who has gone through 3 cranks in a matter of months. He keeps breaking the snout off them. Everything else is good though!

 

[tjm73]

well my post probably wont make you too happy. alot of guys have no probs with the stock shortblock, however, I have a friend with a H/C/I 302 and an s-trim who has gone through 3 cranks in a matter of months. He keeps breaking the snout off them. Everything else is good though!

I would bet he has the blower belt tension too tight. Just a thought.

 

[TrickFlow]

I would bet he has the blower belt tension too tight. Just a thought.

That, and mine is N/A so i wont have the stress of a blower in there... i guess we'll see what happens, i brough the camera, and im going to the shop at lunch to see wtf they are doing

 

[Rick 91GT]

breaking the snout off is related to the blower issue. Blowers put a tremendous amount of stress of the front of the crank as they pull it forward and up. Overtighting the belt to make up for the ****ty Vortech belt tensioner only makes it worse.

If your buddy wants to run the Renegade pulley he can use a crank support that either Vortech makes or Bob Kurgan makes, it will help a lot.

 

[TrickFlow]

You guys are probably not going to believe these damn pictures. I dont have my camera dock here, so ill post them when i get home.

The guy i originally talked to was kinda the receptionist or somethin so he didnt know wtf he was talkin about. When you look at a stock 302 crank, there is one large hole on each end of the counterwieghts (1 per side, drilled down towards the journal) Mine now has about 5 holes on each (large) and of the counterweights, and some smaller holes going thru the smaller counterweights.

It looks like damn swiss cheese.

The place i originally took it to PRESSED MY TRICKFLOW PISTONS ONTO THE ROD when they are a floating design. They also need to hone out the cylinders about 2 thousandths bigger because its only has about a thousandth and a half of clearance. they said the first time i got the motor nice and warm, it would have galded the pistons.

So to make a long story short, he said he can get me an eagle 4340 crank, and H-beam rods for right at around 900 bucks or maybe a little under.






Heres a quick paint version (cross section of my large counterweight)


View attachment 504453

 

[thumper460]

Maybe.... the shop is ALMOST right?? I have run 10s on the bottle with a "Stock Bottom end" NO girdle and stock rods and block!! ARP rod bolts are a must!! the 5.0 ( 50oz) crankshaft DOES break!! right at 1-5 rod journal !! IF and when I build a killer 5.0 .. I offer the broken pieces of a stock 5.0 crankshaft and broken rod, to the guy and let him see the damage.. LOL they they will go to the early 302 ( 28 oz) crankshaft!! Usually the rotating assy is going to be balanced anyway.. so do it at 28 oz vs the 50 oz and you WILL have a 10 sec bottom end!! Steel crankshaft?? H beam?? Yeah.. then go 347 stroker !! cool??

Just me...................................

Thumper