PI Headswap Write-Up

5spd GT

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1996-1998 Mustang GT 4.6L – Installing 2001-2004 Romeo Heads/Cam/Intake for PI Head Swap

Parts Checklist:

01+ PI Romeo Heads with Cams – 1W7Z-6049-AA (RH) and 1W7Z-6049-AA (LH) (1 each)
01+ PI Intake Manifold Assembly – 1W7Z-9424-AB – (1 assembly)
99+ PI Cams - 1L2Z-6250-AA (RH) and 1L2Z-6250-DA (LH) - (1 each)
01+ PI Head Gaskets – 4C2Z-6051-AA (RH) and 4C2Z-6051-BA (LH) – (1 each)
01+ PI Intake Gasket – YL3Z-9439-BA -(1 each for a total of 2) – or Fel Pro – MS-92121
01+ Cam/Valve Cover Gaskets – F6AZ-6584-AA (RH) and F6AZ-6584-BA (LH) – (1 each)
New OEM Head Bolts – 5R3Z-6065-AA -(20 bolts)
Alternator Bracket - F8AZ-10153-EA – 96-98 with PI Intake/Al. Crossover - (1 bracket)
Coolant Tube – XR3Z-18B402-AA - (1 tube)
Coolant Nipple – F75Z-8555-AA – (1 nipple)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket – F1AZ-6020-A – (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket – F1AZ-6020-C – (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket – F6AZ-6020-BB – (1 gasket)
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets – YC2Z-9448-A - (4 gaskets)
Crankshaft Seal – F5AZ-6700-A – (1 seal)
Crankshaft Bolt – F5RZ-6A340-B aka: F1AZ-6A340-A – (1 bolt) or ARP-156-2501
Camshaft Bolts – YF7Z-6279-AA - (1 for each cam for a total of 2 bolts/10mm bolts)
OEM Dipstick or Lokar Oil Dipstick - XR3Z-6754-BA or LOK-ED-5014 – (1 dipstick)
Upper Plenum O-Ring – XR3Z-9L437-BA – (1 o-ring)
Thermostat O-Ring – F1VY-8255-A – (1 o-ring)
Water Pump O-Ring – F1VY-8507-A – (1 o-ring)
Header Down-Pipe Gasket – XR3Z-9450-AA – (1 gasket)
Stock or 180* Thermostat – 3L3Z-8575-AC (192*) or XL3Z-8575-AA (180*) - (1 t-stat)
Spark Plug Wires – F8PZ-12259-HA – (1 kit) – You do not need the wires, it is just an extra.
Spark Plugs – SP-505 – (8 plugs): Motorcraft AGSF-22C's gapped at .048 to .050 for normal street use or AWSFA-12C's for street/strip. The 12C's are 2 steps colder than stock and if you are going to run it hard it might be a better option.

1996-1998 Mustang GT 4.6L – Installing 1999-2000 Windsor Heads/Cam/Intake for PI Headswap

Parts Checklist:

99-00 PI Windsor Heads – 2L1Z-6049-DA (bare, no cams) and with cams is 2L3Z-6049-BA (RH) and 2L3Z-6049-DA (LH) - (1 of each)
99+ PI Individual Cams - 1L2Z-6250-AA (RH) and 1L2Z-6250-DA (LH) - (1 each) - If you have camless heads.
01+ PI Intake Manifold Assembly – 1W7Z-9424-AB – (1 assembly)
99-00 PI Head Gaskets - FC2Z-6051-AA – (RH) and 4C2Z-6051-BA – (LH) – (1 each)
99-00 Intake Manifold Gasket - YL3Z-9429-BA - (1 each for a total of 2)
Cam/Valve Cover - 2L3Z-6582-BA and 2L3Z-6582-DA - (1 each)
Cam/Valve Cover Gasket - 2L3Z-6584-AA (LH) and 2L3Z-6584-BA (RH) – (1 each)
Cam/Valve Cover Bolts – 4C3Z-6C519-AA (Pack of 4 bolt/grommets) - Need 27 new/used windsor valve cover bolts/grommets.
Windsor Head Bolts - 3L3Z-6065-AA - (20 bolts)
Alternator Bracket - F8AZ-10153-EA – 96-98 with PI Intake/Al. Crossover - (1 bracket)
Coolant Tube - XR3Z-18B402-AA - (1 tube)
Coolant Nipple - F75Z-8555-AA - (1 nipple)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket - F1AZ-6020-A - (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket - F6AZ-6020-BB - (1 gasket)
Timing Cover/Front Cover Gasket - F1AZ-6020-C - (1 gasket)
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets - YC2Z-9448-CA (4 gaskets)
Crankshaft Seal - F5AZ-6700-A – (1 seal)
Crankshaft Bolt – F5RZ-6A340-B aka: F1AZ-6A340-A – (1 bolt) or ARP-156-2501
Oil Dipstick or Lokar Oil Dipstick - XR3Z-6754-BA or LOK-ED-5014 (1 dipstick)
Upper Plenum O-Ring - XR3Z-9L437-BA - (1 o-ring)
Thermostat O-Ring - F1VY-8255-A - (1 o-ring)
Water Pump O-Ring - F1VY-8507-A- (1 o-ring)
Timing Cover Bolt - N808142-S437 – M10 - (Comes in Pack of 4, washers included)
Timing Cover Stud - N808140-S309 - M10 - (Comes in Pack of 4, washers included)
Timing Cover Stud - N808529-S309 -M10X1 5X1 - (Comes in Pack of 4)
Header Down-Pipe Gasket – XR3Z-9450-AA – (1 gasket)
Stock or 180* Thermostat – 3L3Z-8575-AC (192*) or XL3Z-8575-AA (180*)- (1 t-stat)
Spark Plug Wires – F8PZ-12259-HA – (1 kit)
Spark Plugs – SP-505 – 192* (8 plugs): Motorcraft AGSF-22C's gapped at .048 to .050 for normal street use or AWSFA-12C's for street/strip. The 12C's are 2 steps colder than stock and if you are going to run it hard it might be a better option.

* - Windsor valve cover bolts come with grommets that attach to the windsor bolts and Romeo valve cover bolts are separate from the grommets.

Ford Head Changing Kit – Applies for 96-04 Heads:

The head changing kit can save you some money. It includes head gaskets (older gen. 7 style), head bolts, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil dipstick tube, and head bolt bushings that help you install the heads in the engine bay. It keeps the head bolts from protruding past the bottom of the head while installing. Easily removed and easier to use. Keep in mind, the oil dipstick tube that comes with this kit does not line up to the head bracket area, but it can work in a pinch with some customizing. I had no issues with it. It is part number FMS-M-6067-D46 for a little over $100.

Parkway Performance 2V Headswap Complete Kit:

This kit is nice if you do not want to piece together the parts, but you may pay a bit more for the kit, than piecing it together.

More Windsor Head Swap Information:

Windsor Heads/Valve Covers has 13 (driver side) and 14 bolts (passenger side), and Romeo has 11 bolts.

If using Windsor heads (99-00), you will need 99-00 Valve Covers and extra valve cover bolts, Four 10mm bolts and 4 10mm studs (Romeos need 8mm) that put the timing cover to the head for a total of 8 with 4 on each side. Drill out heater tube bracket at the back of the head and get bigger bolt (10mm x 1.5 and 20/25mm) to hold down the bracket.

If you want to piece together the extra timing cover bolts and studs, here are the sizes:

(A) 5 long double studs (10x1.5 thread both studs, 18mm Hex) that go into the top 4 holes of the T.C. and 1 goes in the outside lower Driver side.

(B) 1 shorter double stud (10x1.5 / 6x1.00 thread, 18mm hex) that goes in the Pass. side outside lower hole.

(C) 2 Standard Timing Cover bolts (10x1.5 thread, 13mm hex) these go in the inside lower holes of both banks.

Windsor heads have separate cam journals and Romeo heads have two bridge style caps.

Windsor cam gears are press fit and not bolt-on like 96-98 and 01-04.

Chain guide differences in Romeo and Windsor:

The left bank chain guide has a minor difference. The early Romeo guides use two bolts in the cylinder head for the upper mount and a dowel in the block for the lower locator. The Windsor engines use 1 bolt in the head and one bolt in the block. The right bank Windsor head will have two holes in the head so it's a direct bolt in on that side. The left side, however will only have one bolt hole in the head so you'll be using 1 bolt and 1 dowel on the left bank if you use the original Romeo guides.

In other words, it will work fine either way.

Extra Parts If Needed:

ARP Camshaft Sprocket Bolt: ARP-256-1001 – 12mm x 1.5
12mm Camshaft/Crankshaft Bolt for 96-98 and aftermarket camshafts- F5RZ-6A340-B aka: F1AZ-6A340-A - M12-1.5 (1 for each cam for a total of 2).
ARP Harmonic Balancer Bolt w/washer: ARP-156-2501
ARP Head Stud 12 Pt Kit: ARP-156-4301 – Fits all 4.6/5.4/2V/4V complete with nuts/washers.
ARP Head Stud Hex Kit: ARP-156-4101 – Fits all 4.6/5.4/2V/4V complete with nuts/washers.
Cam Spacer - F3AZ-6265-A
Cam Washer - F1AZ-6278-A
Romeo Cam Gears - F8AZ-6258-AA (right head) and F8AZ-6526-BA (left head)
Romeo Valve Cover Bolts/Grommets - N806-183-S437 (bolts/pack of 3) and 4C3Z-6C519-AA (grommets/pack of 1)
Coolant Nipple O-Rings - W704593-S100
NPI Intake Manifold Gasket: XW7Z-9439-AA
Thermostat Housing Bolts: N811011-S309
Spark Plugs – M14x1.25

Alternator Bracket Information:

1999+ have 2 bolts to bolt down on the alternator at the top to the bracket and 1996-1998 back only have 1 bolt and 1 bolt hole, so for a 1996-1998 the correct alternator bracket part number is F8AZ-10153-EA for the intake with the aluminum cross-over. If its a 1999+ intake and a 1999+ alternator, then the 1R3Z-10153-AA would be the correct bracket part number.

Tools Needed:

5mm-6mm-7mm-8mm-10mm-13mm-15mm-18mm-22mm (Regular/Deep-Well/Wrenches)
Torque Wrench in Ft. lbs and Inch lbs.
Break-over Bar
Screwdriver
Crankshaft Pulley Puller (A Universal Ford Puller will work)
A/C/Fuel Line Disconnect Tools
RTV High-temp Silicone (black)
Assembly Lube
Gasket Scraper
Degreaser
Brake Cleaner
Thread Sealer
Latex Gloves
Ziploc Bags/Tape/Pen (for bolts and labeling)
White-Out Marker
Two Oil Changes/Filter
Coolant/Distilled Water

Torque Specifications:

Crankshaft Bolt: 118 ft. lbs or see below.*
Camshaft Bolts: 82-95 ft. lbs*
Intake Bolts: 18 ft. lbs
Valve Cover Bolts: 89 inch lbs. (71-106 inch lbs.)
Timing Cover Bolts: 19 ft. lbs
Spark Plugs: 13 ft. lbs**
Arm Tensioner, Power Steering Pump, Water Pump Pulley Bolts*: 19 ft. lbs

* - A drop of loc-tite may be suggested.
** - A small dab of anti-seize on the threads may be a good idea.

Extra Notes:

Technically you can reuse all gaskets except the head gaskets, but it is just a good idea to replace them.

Using 01-04 PI heads allows you to reuse your 96-98 valve covers and cam gears, cam spacers, and cam bolt washers.

Factory NPI manifolds work fine and flow the same as PI manifolds.

If using PI manifolds, install Napa part number 600-1819 for an exhaust manifold stud kit. It eliminates the stud spacers which allows you to install your exhaust leak-free. It comes with two studs and two nuts.

If using PI manifolds, you need manifold to H-pipe nuts for the passenger side and driver side (unless you bought the Napa stud kit for the driver side), for a total of 2. The part number is N800419-S301.

Tap new PI intake - 3/8-18 NPSF with pipe thread on driver side front, across from stock coolant sensor.

’96-’98 Non-PI Heads have a 49.77cc combustion chamber and the pistons have a .153cc dish relief.

’99-’04 PI Heads have a 42.45cc combustion chamber and the pistons have a deeper dish at .188cc dish relief.

Since the PI Heads have a smaller combustion chamber and were matched to deeper dish pistons than the ’96-’98 models, it increases the compression on ’96-’98 pistons to 10.4-10.5:1.

It will require a higher octane fuel, preferably 89-93 to help prevent detonation. No tune required.

NPI heads have tear drop shaped intake port and PI heads have trapezoid shaped intake port.

Bolt Head Sizes:

5mm – Exhaust Manifold Stud End
7mm – Coil Packs
8mm – Battery Post, Air Filter Housing, Valve Cover, Fuel Injector Holddown, Cam Guides,
10mm – Intake Bolts, Plenum, Oil Pan
13mm – Exhaust Manifold, Timing Cover, One Valve Cover Bolt, Accessories,
15mm – Manifold to H-pipe.
18mm – Crankshaft, Cam, Timing Cover
22mm – 02 Sensors/Monitors

Things to Remember for Disassembly:

Drain block of coolant.

Mark vacuum and electrical lines and connections with tape and numbers.

Take plenty of photos if need be.

Whenever possible, reinstall bolts, studs, and nuts in original locations after you remove them.

A ratcheting 10mm wrench for the bottom/under power steering pump bolt will save you a lot of time. Otherwise, a typical 10mm open-ended/12 point wrench will do.

After removing valve covers and/or timing cover, block off the bottom of the timing cover/oil pan with some clean rags so you do not drop any parts down in the rotating assembly area.

Remember the 4 bolts in the bottom of the oil pan that hold on the timing cover.

Clean parts make for a cleaner install. If you have access to a machine shop or do it yourself, have parts like your heads, cams, intake, timing cover hot-tanked to clean off old grease.

Head Installation:

Head Torque Sequence

Before installing heads, clean block surface where the head gasket will be placed. Brake cleaner or acetone can clean off the block surface and piston tops. Try to keep most of the old gasket material from going into the coolant passages. Oil the cylinder walls after cleaning.

If cams are installed on heads, make sure the pistons are in safe mode. The crank keyway will point at 9 or 12 o’clock for safe mode. Safe mode puts all pistons below the deck so valves will not hit the pistons when bolting down the heads.

Install Head gaskets dry. Use 30-weight oil on new head bolt threads and on both sides of the washer.

Move oil plugs from the front and back of your Non-pi heads to your PI heads. Otherwise you will blow out oil everywhere when you start it.

Bolt on exhaust manifolds and new exhaust gaskets with oil dipstick positioned in the middle of the exhaust manifolds. If using PI manifolds, install Napa exhaust stud kit on driver side manifold so you will not have an exhaust leak.

Put RTV on oil dipstick block end to prevent an oil leak.

It would be best to lower the heads with two people to keep parts from catching on other parts and sit the head on the head dowels.

Cam Installation and Timing:

Cam Torque Sequence

Cam Timing Tutorial

Here is how I installed the cams in my own words:

First I got the pistons below the deck by pointing the crank keyway at 9:00, which is safe mode.

Then turn the cam gears to the position in the above cam timing article in Figure 1. The timing marks on the cam gear are recessed, which do not stick out. The driver side (LH) cam gear timing mark that does not stick out will be around the 2:00 position and the passenger side (RH) cam gear timing mark that does not stick out will be around the 11:00 position.

Install cam bolts without the washers for now to turn the cams over, you will find out why later.

You can now turn the crank to top dead center (TDC) by turning the crank clockwise 45* from 9:00, or at the 10:30/315* position..

Install cam tensioner, cam tensioner guide, and the straight cam chain guide. Apply a small dab of loc-tite on those bolts if you would like.

Find two small paper clips and bend them out. Assuming the cam tensioner plunger is bled down, use some vice grips or a C-clamp that can compress the cam tensioner plunger into the housing. While it is compressed with the vice grips, push in the ladder ratchet and then get that small paper clip and install it in the smallest hole on the cam tensioner housing. It will hold the plunger in place, so you have more room to install your timing chain.

Install crank gears making sure the crank gear shoulders are facing each other.

Take your timing chain for each one and fold it in half. Mark the two opposite ends, making two total marks per chain. One mark will line up with the crank gear line on the gear which points at 6:00 when at TDC and the other mark that you made will line up with the recessed cam gear timing mark that does not stick out.

Grab the driver side timing chain and put a white-out mark on the crank gear at 6:00 and pull it up on the straight side of the timing chain and wrap it around the cam gear to line up the other white-out mark to the cam gear recessed mark. A good way to get the cam gears in the right position is to take the cam gear off the cam and install it in the chain and then reinstall the cam gear on the cam. Rotate the cam to the correct position slowly to get the cam gear installed.

With the cam bolt washer off, it allows you to do that. You can turn the cam and remove the cam gear this way.

The other side is the same.

Once you have the cam timing set, rotate your crankshaft two full times to make sure there is no piston to valve clearance problems.

Pull the paper clips out and torque the cam gears down with new bolts and washers installed and a dab of loc-tite.

Front/Timing Cover Install:

Front/Timing Cover Torque Sequence and Bolt/Stud Location

Ten points need to have RTV applied, which equates to 5 on each side. Put RTV where the oil pan/timing cover/block meet (one on each side for a total of 2). Put RTV on each place where head/block/timing cover meets (two on each side for a total of 4). Put RTV below valve cover gasket where head/timing cover/valve cover gasket meets (two on each side for a total of 4).

Install timing cover gaskets dry and clean.

Install harmonic balancer with RTV on the keyway hole and apply oil on the crankshaft end. You can tap it on lightly to get it on far enough to pull it on with your crank bolt and torque in stages to 118 ft. lbs. A dab of loc-tite is okay. Here is the official torque sequence for crankshaft bolt:

- Use the old bolt to draw the crank damper down till it seats (you may need to use a longer bolt to get the thing started.
- Remove the old bolt
- Install new bolt and washer
- Tighten bolt to 66 ft-lbs
- Loosen bolt one complete turn
- Tighten bolt to 37 ft-lbs
- Tighten bolt 90 additional degrees

Cam/Valve Cover Install:

Cam/Valve Cover Torque Sequence

Put assembly lube or oil the cam lobes, lifters, and rockers before bolting on the cam covers.

Install gaskets dry and make sure they do not move upon installation. You can put some RTV in the cam cover gasket groove and let it dry a bit before you install the cam covers so the gasket is less likely to move.

Water Pump Installation:

Tap out old coolant nipple and tap in new coolant nipple. RTV can be used as well when tapping it in.

Clean mating surfaces and install water pump gasket dry.

PI Intake Installation:

Intake Torque Sequence

Before installing the intake, install the heater tube over new coolant nipple and bolt it to the back of the driver side head. Using a Windsor head (99-00) will require you to drill out heater tube bracket hole and use a larger bolt.

Tap PI intake - 3/8-18 NPSF with Pipe Thread. Same tap as passenger side coolant sensor.

Install intake gasket dry. Move all sensors over from NPI to PI manifold. Thread sealer on front two coolant sensors only.

Be easy on brass inserts with no more than 106 inch lbs (8 ft lbs.)

Install thermostat with spring pointing down and install thermostat gasket dry on top of the thermostat.

Install plenum gasket dry.

Gap (.048-.050”) and install spark plugs with a little antiseize on threads and torque to 13 ft. lbs.

Firing Order and Spark Plug Wires:

Back of Block

4 8
3 7
2 6
1 5

Front of Block

Passenger Side Coil Pack Firing Order

6 3
1 5

Driver Side Coil Pack Firing Order

7 2
4 8

Just match them up.

Initial Start-Up:

Before cranking double check all hoses and connections.

Have fresh oil and filter and water and coolant in engine.

Prime the engine with fuel by turning the key to accessory several times.

Turn car over and check for leaks or strange sounds. Your car may be a little noisy for a few seconds until oil pressure builds up.

More Helpful Write-Ups and Pictures:

PI Headswap Write-Up

PI Intake and Cam Installation

PI Headswap Pictures

Installing Aftermarket Camshafts and Valve Springs

How-To Degree 4.6L Camshafts

Cam Swap on SOHC 98 4.6L

Rebuilding the Ford 4.6L SOHC Engine

Ford 4.6L Mustang Engine Differences

MM&FF Modular Mix and Match, Part 1

Modular Engine Specifications

PI Intake Swap Checklist Install Help:

Excellent Intake Removal and Replacement Article

Intake Torque Sequence

01+ PI Intake Gasket* – YL3Z-9439-BA -(1 each for a total of 2) – or FelPro – MS-92121
96-98 NPI Intake Gasket - XW7Z-9439-AA
Alternator Bracket - F8AZ-10153-EA – 96-98 with PI Intake/Al. Crossover - (1 brkt)
Coolant Tube – XR3Z-18B402-AA - (1 tube)
Coolant Nipple – F75Z-8555-AA – (1 nipple)
Upper Plenum O-Ring – XR3Z-9L437-BA – (1 o-ring)
Thermostat O-Ring – F1VY-8255-A – (1 o-ring)
Water Pump O-Ring – F1VY-8507-A – (1 o-ring)
Stock or 180* Thermostat – 3L3Z-8575-AC (192*) or XL3Z-8575-AA (180*) - (1 t-stat)
Thermostat Housing Bolts*: N811011-S309

* - If installing a PI Intake on Non-PI heads use PI intake gaskets and you will need to RTV in a few spots to prevent leaks.
** - Optional

Before installing the intake, install the heater tube over new coolant nipple and bolt it to the back of the driver side head. Using a Windsor head (99-00) will require you to drill out heater tube bracket hole and use a larger bolt.

Tap PI intake - 3/8-18 NPSF with Pipe Thread. Same tap as passenger side coolant sensor.

Install intake gasket dry. Move all sensors over from NPI to PI manifold. Thread sealer on front two coolant sensors only.

Be easy on brass inserts with no more than 106 inch lbs (8 ft lbs.)

Install thermostat with spring pointing down and install thermostat gasket dry on top of the thermostat.

Install plenum gasket dry.

Gap and install spark plugs with a little antiseize on threads and torque to 13 ft. lbs.

4.6L Cylinder Head Flow Comparison

Source: Livernois Motorsports
28” of Water on same flow bench

Non-PI and PI Heads

Lift in Inches – Non-PI (’96-‘98) – PI (’99-’04)

.100 – 046 - 054
.200 – 067 - 078
.250 – 086 - 098
.300 – 104 - 119
.350 – 135 - 145
.400 – 147 - 156
.450 – 159 - 161
.500 – 170 - 166
.550 – 176 – 168

Non-PI ('96-'98) Heads have 146cc runner volume for the intake ports and 1.75"/1.34" (44.5 mm/34 mm) valves.
PI ('99-'04) Heads have 159cc runner volume for the intake ports and 1.75"/1.42" (44.5 mm/36 mm) valves.

Ported Non-PI and PI Heads

Lift in Inches – Non-PI (’96-‘98) – PI (’99-’04)

.100 – 061 – 060
.150 – 089 - 086
.200 – 112 - 116
.250 – 131 - 141
.300 – 146 - 160
.350 – 160 - 169
.400 – 173 - 176
.450 – 185 - 182
.500 – 188 - 185
.550 – 193 - 186

Non-PI Cams - 1996-1998

Advertised Duration @ Lobe: 233*/242*

Advertised Duration @ Valve: 242*/254*

Duration @ .050" @ Lobe: 186*/191*

Duration @ .050" @ Valve: 202*/207*

Lobe Lift: .256"/.259"

Gross Lift: .461"/.466"

PI Cams - 1999-2004

Crower Cams recommend to advance cams 2* and factory cam gears can be off +/- 5*.

Advertised Duration @ Lobe: 233*/239*

Advertised Duration @ Valve: 242*/252*

Duration @ .050" @ Lobe: 184*/191*

Duration @ .050" @ Valve: 200*/209*

Lobe Lift: .280"/.295"

Gross Lift: .504"/.531"

Centerline: 112*/116*

Intake Opening @ BTDC is -11*
Exhaust Opening @ BBDC is 41*
Intake Closing @ ABDC is is 33*
Exhaust Closing @ ATDC is -11*
 
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Mark the timing! Do not forget this

Wire wheel the top of the pistons while the heads are off

While the plenum is off take a dremel/grinding wheel to it to port

And yes, the ratcheting wrench works best for the power steering pump bolt :nice:
 
I sea some bad part #'s, other than that, Good Job:
now a 180* thermostat is part # XL3Z-8575-AA and the PI cams are part # 1L2Z-6250-DA for the LH and 1L2Z-6250-AA for the RH, Windsor head bolts are part # 3L3Z-6065-AA

Thanks Randy:nice: Corrections and additions have been made...

By chance, I know one of the head bolts is around 5mm shorter/longer and can be used on both headswaps possibly. Can you happen to enlighten us?

Windsor head part number?
 
1999+ have 2 bolts to bolt down on the alternator at the top to the bracket and 1996-1998 back only have 1 bolt and 1 bolt hole, so for a 1996-1998 the correct alternator bracket part number is F8AZ-10153-EA for the intake with the aluminum cross-over. If its a 1999+ intake and a 1999+ alternator, then the 1R3Z-10153-AA would be the correct bracket part number.

Sorry to bring this up again
so if you have a 96-98 but have a PI intake manifold do you need a 99+ alternater? Or can you just use the F8AZ-10153-EA?
 
Sorry I got to your post late CobraRed...

Yes, you can transfer them with no problem:nice: It just a few $ for both of them and is usually purchased without to much hassle.
 
PI Head Swap P0340 error

I have a 99 Mustang GT that I swapped the heads on to the PI heads that I bought from Steeda. They are the 2003 GT heads. Along with them I also changed the intake manifold that I bought through them to match the heads. I put the COMP Cams Ford 4.6/5.4L Adjustable Cam Gear Sets on the new camshafts.

I am now getting the P0340 Camshaft circuit error when I run a diagnostic test on it. The engine will run (starts up with no problem) but it does not idle correctly. I checked all the connections and disconnected the crankshaft sensor to see if it was bad. The engine would not run with the crankshaft sensor disconnected.

Do I need to purchase a different Camshaft sensor since these are 2003 year heads?

Also, on the 2003 valve covers there is a different size/type PCV valve inlet. Is there a different PCV valve for this and should there be a rubber grommet in it? It does not look like you can put a rubber grommet in it and still be able to put the PCV valve in it.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thank you!!!!