What's the Best N/A Cam?

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^ will any of the NPI cams work with unnotched 4v pistons? i have ported npi's and the edelbrock intake, ive been thinking about some new cams to go along with the intake...


I know up to the Stage 2 will work. I have a set of the Stage 3.5 NPI cams here I am combining with a Logan intake, I will let you know what the clearance is with a stock piston (but give me time please)
 
moving this to tech.. very good tech in this thread


BTW nick.. any recommendations for cams for my PI head swapped 97

I know I am going to have to notch the pistons to run any decent sized cam


If you change the intake valve you can run a much bigger safely. If you notch the pistons you can run pretty much any cam with the stock valve. If on the plastic intake and the PI head I like about 225-230 intake duration installed at 106-108 intake centerline, and a smaller exhaust lobe installed around 108-110 exhaust centerline. This seems to make the most street/strip power so far.
 
If you change the intake valve you can run a much bigger safely. If you notch the pistons you can run pretty much any cam with the stock valve. If on the plastic intake and the PI head I like about 225-230 intake duration installed at 106-108 intake centerline, and a smaller exhaust lobe installed around 108-110 exhaust centerline. This seems to make the most street/strip power so far.

Sounds good.. I am planning on either some ported factory heads for it or maybe the trick flows..

When i take the heads off for that I will notch the pistons and whatever heads I get I will make sure they have the valves with a thinner face..

I heard you were working on a tool for notching the pistons?
 
Sounds good.. I am planning on either some ported factory heads for it or maybe the trick flows..

When i take the heads off for that I will notch the pistons and whatever heads I get I will make sure they have the valves with a thinner face..

I heard you were working on a tool for notching the pistons?


If you get Trickflow heads no need to notch the piston.

I was working on the tool but its a biach to do so I just decided to offer cheap piston notching in a Bridgeport mill instead.
 
I know up to the Stage 2 will work. I have a set of the Stage 3.5 NPI cams here I am combining with a Logan intake, I will let you know what the clearance is with a stock piston (but give me time please)

i have after market valves, if that helps, modmax SS swirl polished and undercut..

what are the specs? currently im running powerheads regrinds 225/230 dur. @.50, 540/540 lift, 112 lsa, and they are NOT degreed

do you think i would gain some decent power with your cams, and all of my mods(in sig)
 
i have after market valves, if that helps, modmax SS swirl polished and undercut..

what are the specs? currently im running powerheads regrinds 225/230 dur. @.50, 540/540 lift, 112 lsa, and they are NOT degreed

do you think i would gain some decent power with your cams, and all of my mods(in sig)


The modmax are nice but on the NPI head they don't help with PTV like the PI head.

I would take your current cams and advance them 4 degrees first, you can get adjustable crank gears from TFS now for about $50. They will still have the same peak power as before but your midrange will come up a good bit. You should always have more torque than HP with the plastic intake NA I recently learned, if you don't then your cams are installed too retarded and need to be advanced some.

No need to change cams unless you do go to a different intake and shift the RPM curve higher.
 
The modmax are nice but on the NPI head they don't help with PTV like the PI head.

I would take your current cams and advance them 4 degrees first, you can get adjustable crank gears from TFS now for about $50. They will still have the same peak power as before but your midrange will come up a good bit. You should always have more torque than HP with the plastic intake NA I recently learned, if you don't then your cams are installed too retarded and need to be advanced some.

No need to change cams unless you do go to a different intake and shift the RPM curve higher.

i have the edelbrock victor jr. with a ported C&L upper and custom adapter plate.....
 
i have the edelbrock victor jr. with a ported C&L upper and custom adapter plate.....


You really need to do a proper upper elbow like this for the Edelbrock intake:

46mustangelbow01.jpg


He sells them dirt cheap for the amount of labor needed to make it IMHO.

Wait on the cams, you need bigger ones for sure. I will have my Stage 3.5 NPI together with a Logan intake in the next few months. Then we can see what the powerband really is.
 
You really need to do a proper upper elbow like this for the Edelbrock intake:

46mustangelbow01.jpg


He sells them dirt cheap for the amount of labor needed to make it IMHO.

Wait on the cams, you need bigger ones for sure. I will have my Stage 3.5 NPI together with a Logan intake in the next few months. Then we can see what the powerband really is.

who makes them? and what the price on them? i would love to see 350+rwhp N/A........
 
For anyone interested, I just posted some matched cam gears in the for sale section for those folks that are unable to degree their own cams and don't want to wonder if they have a +4 advanced gear in their motor when swapping cams.
 
For anyone interested, I just posted some matched cam gears in the for sale section for those folks that are unable to degree their own cams and don't want to wonder if they have a +4 advanced gear in their motor when swapping cams.

what do you mean by matched?, i never degreed my cams, bucause im not 100% sure how to do it,

what do these gears do? would they be good for my setup?
 
what do you mean by matched?, i never degreed my cams, bucause im not 100% sure how to do it,

what do these gears do? would they be good for my setup?


They are QC tested to be at 0 degrees + or - 0.5 degrees on a stock deck height stock head deck engine that it itself was QC against multiple combinations. I can actually pull everything apart and repeat within a 0.5 of a degree every time now.

Stock specs from Ford seem to be + or - 4 degrees so one of your cams could be 4 degrees advanced and the other 4 degrees retarded. There have been stories of being even further out but I have never seen one more than 4 out.

I am going to be uploading a cam degree how to shortly, its a bit of work and you need some specialty tools to do it. The average time in car spent on it is roughly 4 hours from the people I am talking with. With my "test jig" I can do it a lot faster but its still a bunch of time to test each gear.