Thursday was my "late day" Since that left me w/ a couple of hours in the morning, I decided to fix some of the other issues that I talked about in my last update.
The top of the doors have trim on them. That trim is sht. There were/are so many dents, I'd have to add filler to them to make them decent, but even after that, I'd have to find the specific clips to re-install the damn things. Ford originally used a clip that looks like an "S" w/ a little spring wire to keep it there. It had a barb stud that would just pop into one of the 8 or so holes on top of the door.
Since this was a barb stud,..and you had to get you hand finagled into the door and try to crimp that barb so that you could remove that clip that held that molding,..What do you think I did to get the damn thing off back when it was first removed?
If you guessed anything that had the words "pry" in it,..you'd be close. I destroyed all of those clips trying to get the thing off, and they seem to be obsolete,...replaced now with an equally miserable to install threaded stud version.
Like I said before......I ain't taking that door apart to install that dented up assed trim.
So,...First thing I did was go to my metal supply store, and but two 3/16 thick x 1.250" wide pieces of aluminum bar. I'll run one edge over w/ my router to round it off, and then prime, and paint that thing.
Then I'm sticking it to the top of the door w/ 3m trim tape.
Da-Done-Dah!
I flipped the wires so that the high beams are "high beams" according to the indicator on my gauge display. Seemed like the easier way to solve that problem.
I raised the car in the air so that i could let the rear hang and run the adjusters up to add the ride height to the rear.
Annnddd....... I think the driver side strut threads are seized.
I wish I had tried the passenger side first, then I'd know that there was a problem, because the passenger side went up way easier. Even with the rear hanging, the shock itself keeps the rear from dropping completely, and that means that after the first inch of adjustment,....you are back to loading the chassis by turning the coil over nut. In other words,..you are lifting the car by turning a nut................. With a stupid little hooked wrench that looks like some sort of Pirate invented it.
Since I didn't do the passenger side first, I was just thinking that the resistance was a result of the weight of the car,...and screwing that thing up was just gonna be a pain in the ass.
I was right,..and wrong at the same time....
#1. Screwing that thing up, and having to do so against a loaded spring w/ a stupid pirate hook wrench was a pain in the ass.
#2. Screwing that thing up and galling the threads to the point of lock up was easy.
So,.....Now I'm off for 5 days. I gotta spend hours on what shoulda been a 30 minute fix. I got no way to turn that adjuster any more because now the entire threaded sleeve is spinning (And this is a coil over shock,...not a sleeved kit like on the front).
It's "loaded". There is spring pressure on it. I don't think that I can even get the damn thing OFF the car.
Even If I can,..I gotta stop the threaded sleeve from spinning, and that means (probably) I'm gonna have to try and hold the sleeve at the top w/ a pair of channel locks, or worse,....a pipe wrench. Even then,......The sleeve and that nut are gonna be phcked..... I'll probably have to buy another 170 dollar shock.
Phckin Monster.......
Why he can't be nice?
ty attention span I guess. 
