Thanks for the update on the project! I'm hoping more people will add their thoughts on the suspension upgrades, because it's always good to have more than one POV. I'll do my best to provide some balanced information...Having some issues loading pictures onto the site, but think it is my computer.
More importantly - tomorrow the drivetrain should be in the mustang, and once it is running the suspension upgrades are going to begin (rear C springs will go in while doing the rear end swap). The pedal swap wasnt fun but not as bad as anticipated, after swapping the transmission cross member from the mustang I was cutting the tunnel for the shifter and realized there are two trans mounts on the chassis so will probably have to pull the AOD mounts out and swap the TC cross member back.
Suspension question - back in the day the PanHard set up was the stuff of dreams, so now considering whether or not it is actually necessary? Is there a drastic improvement from the seat of your pants scale??
Warhorse - front swaybar question for you. After watching your video I am second guessing my choice to run the beefy TC front swaybar ( it didnt come with a rear so def putting the TC rear in ). Thoughts
Have taken pictures along the way so hopefully i can sort it out
I've picked up at least one more rear sway bar since making that video. I expect to have to experiment with a few sway bars on my 2.3L project.Thanks - like your video said i will "never throw away a swaybar" haha Hopefully will get a chance to measure all three of the swaybars I currently have - stock 2.3 NA Mustang front as well as TC front and rear - and start playing with them to see what works best.
Still have a brand new set of Prothane rear poly bushings that are probably going to go on till I decide which arms to go with, MM caught me off guard with their recommendation NOT to use poly uppper bushings, but as you said they are probably set up an entire rear suspension that works. Hadnt heard of J&M before coming back to the Mustang scene so will take a second look at those - thanks
I use Bilstein in all my cars, but as far as i know they dont make an adjustable shock / strut but maybe it is time to try something different.
Finally thanks for the input on the PanHard setup. Hard not to get all the fun stuff I could not afford when i was young haha
Glad to hear you got the car fired up!Got the car fired up today so now i just need to clean it all up and then install the rear TC diff with poly bushings and then will start swapping the front suspension bits - looking forward to experimenting honestly.
Will check into some other options for shocks / struts - used to want the Tokico adjustables around the same time i wanted the PanHard rod so will see how things work out. Dont think i will have a chance to ride in an adjustable car before tearing into mine, but will do my research before buying - and of course let everyone know my impression after install.
This car was never meant to be a rocket, but it has to be able to "play" in the corners. Really enjoy the mountain drives in my area, but dont need a car that I will never be able to use to its full potential.
More fun driving a slow car fast, than driving a fast car slow!!
thanks again for the info
Making SRA 79-04 Mustangs handle better without going overboard means choosing parts that eliminate the “factory-installed flaws” all Fox Body and SN95 Mustangs have. They have a tendency to understeer at the limit of traction, they’re prone to “quadra-bind” when pushed, and they can all benefit from chassis bracing. Years ago, I came up with a recipe to make my cars perform better with fewer mods. I’ve used almost everything on this list (or some version of it) on my 1992 Mustang GT and my 2000 Mustang GT convertible (before the IRS swap). Both cars were completely neutral despite being nose-heavy and tail-happy from the factory. Both cars performed very well at autocross events, even without an aftermarket K-member, coil-overs, or a PB/TA rear suspension. I’ve modified the list a bit to better suit the 2.3L, and I removed some items that would be overkill for a street car.Sounds great! Would love to hear some ideas on a well balanced set up
I'm always happy to help! I'm glad the videos are helpful, too.Looks like a solid plan, with a few things that didnt occur to me. Appreciate the input and love the video, have found your videos very informative and helpful.
Planning on selling the Prothane poly rear kit and go with the Upper and Lower arms, and the spherical uppers
Rack is still stock, I put some 8mm spacers behind the front wheels for a while which cleared up the rubbing, but I did not like that solution and for now I am just avoiding full lock turns until I upgrade wheels or more likely just buy some limiters to stuff in there. It is just a problem with the rubber though, I did not notice any rubbing from the wheels themselves. Running 15x7 turbines and 225/60 tires.Thanks Chilli. Did you swap out the 4cyl 20:1 steering rack?
I haven't personally used the J&M rear control arms. I have used/seen other J&M parts, and I've been impressed with their quality. Because I've had such a great experience with the Steeda steel and aluminum rear control arms on my autocross cars, I would recommend them as my first choice.Warhorse, do recommend the Steeda Control Arms over the J&Ms? Putting together orders this week while home, so wondering which way to go.
Also do all the Del-A-Lum bushings move the control arm forward, or is there a specific part needed to do that?
You can't go wrong with Steeda parts. But I do think the J&M parts would also perform well.Thanks. Was checking out the Steeda website as they are company that I recognize, so will probably go that way
Have you tried the Global West LCAs? Ask because they use the same bushing
I haven't felt the need to use the Steeda X2 ball joints on my cars. I don't lower my cars very much, and I've been happy with how they've performed with OEM-style Moog ball joints. I don't think the Steeda ball joints will hurt the performance of your car, they just might not be absolutely necessary. It's worth mentioning that the "Important Details" section in the Steeda X2 ball joint description lists the additional mods you might need to make.War while looking through the Steeda website I came across their Ball Joints for the SN95 front swap and wondered if you had any experience, or heard from anyone that has used these? The description sounds convincing, and as i need to purchase a new set of ball joints wondering whether to buy the stock SN95 or maybe Steeda
Those Billet pieces look pretty nice, but as you said overkill for my car