How to improve brakes on 86 LX 5.0

ragtop71

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Jun 6, 2003
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The front brakes on my 86 Mustang LX 5.0 have never been good. I finally want to try to improve them somehow. I have changed the Master Cylinder, added new simi metalic disc pads, and turned the rotors, but still can't get the front wheels to lock up at any speed. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
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how about the calipers? Or you can use the rotors on 87-93 mustangs. Just get the spindles from an 87-93 5.0 so you can mount the newer rotors which are larger. Also, the stock master cylinder and booster are weak for those years, but you can bolt in a master cylinder from an 85 town car which has the same thread size but larger bores. Try that. Shouldnt cost that much to do all that.
 
ragtop71 said:
The front brakes on my 86 Mustang LX 5.0 have never been good. I finally want to try to improve them somehow. I have changed the Master Cylinder, added new simi metalic disc pads, and turned the rotors, but still can't get the front wheels to lock up at any speed. Any ideas? Thanks.

First off learn how brakes work!

Did you increase the leverage or friction of the system by changing the MC? no.

Second, your brakes suck. period. End of story. Upgrade.
 
Matt90GT said:
First off learn how brakes work!

Did you increase the leverage or friction of the system by changing the MC? no.

Second, your brakes suck. period. End of story. Upgrade.


damn man, thanks for helping out :rolleyes:
why not at least try to help him? oh yea, its easier to be a dick, i forgot :nonono:

just do what smock doiley said, you should be fine, for a good price too

B.J.
 
some would consider brakes that don't lock up, but stop well...desireable. :)

problem with 86's is they have 10" rotors...heat up quick. you can upgrade to 11" rotors if you get those newer spindles that were mentioned. also, it's cheap to get lincoln calipers (73mm)...which you'll need the MC too. i can't find the page right now, but i'm sure someone has it...there's a popular site that explains which parts and how to do it. the only tricky part is that you need to replace one of the brake lines from the MC to the proportioning valve. worth upgrade and affordable.

good luck
 
The inexpensive way to go is the 73mm piston calipers from a Mark VII (get new ones from any parts place), the matching hoses, the spindles (from a junk yard) and rotors/ bearings (any parts place) from a later model 'Stang GT, a Mustang SVO master cylinder (also from any parts place). Then, to improve that....get the Steeda stainless caliper pin busings and the cross-drilled, slotted rotors (Bendix) from iRotors.com. Match those with Bendix titanium metallic pads and you are in for under $600 or so. I did this and strongly recommend this as a minumum for stock daily driving.

The old 86 brakes are dangerous in stock form! I know, it was like driving four wheel drums for years until my 10" rotors burned up and I had enough of the bad brakes to not buy another set of rotors.

Good luck! Email me if you need any help....
Mikey
 
Aren't the '86 rotors 10.5"? And yes they do suck, my Stang has probaby the worse brakes on it than any other car I've owned. I think if you're on a tight budget upgradin to '87-93 front brakes would make a big improvement. :shrug:
 
You just had to make me find my "Official Ford Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference and Performance Handbook."

Front rotors for 82-86 were 10.06 in. diameter and .870 in. thick. For 87-93 they were 10.84 in. diameter and 1.03 in. thick. Hence, 10" vs. 11"

My set up makes my Capri feel like a normal car for braking. If you are souping yours up, then, I would go after the Cobra set up. Mine is a stock 5.0L HO with AOD daily driver with suspension and brakes improved. I put in the subframe connectors, strut tower brace and K member brace. Match that with a K&N filter sans air silencer.

I got to experience the normal vs cross-drilled/slotted first hand. It's worth the little bit of extra $$$. If you stay away from the Chinese rotors (strongly suggested) then the price between new solid rotors vs cross-drilled/slotted is not that much (see iRotors.com). One thing I forgot to mention is you will need shims on your struts if you reuse them when you convert. The later model spindles have a thinner strut mount. This is pretty common and often included with the earlier struts.

I spend my time on the 74 Bronco and sometimes the 68 Cougar. I'm in search of a 70s Pantera in the next few years (my mid life crisis car!)

Good luck!
Mikey
 
Oh yeah, one other thing that is really cool.....the steering arms on the later model spindles are set in just a hair soooooo....you get a slightly tighter turning radius when you convert. I really loved that in the parking lot!!! You'll rub tires a bit but it really doesn't matter!

You also get a nice dust/water/mud shield for the back of the brakes.
 
Thanks for all the help. I love that link with the detailed upgrade. Just for the info, I have all stock brake items and replaced the MC with a stock one. I will take your advice, and start looking for 1987-93 spindles & rotors. If anyone has any for sale, let me know. I also like the idea of the 1985 Lincoln Master cylinder, power booster, and calipers. Thanks again for all the help.
 
ragtop71 said:
Thanks for all the help. I love that link with the detailed upgrade. Just for the info, I have all stock brake items and replaced the MC with a stock one. I will take your advice, and start looking for 1987-93 spindles & rotors. If anyone has any for sale, let me know. I also like the idea of the 1985 Lincoln Master cylinder, power booster, and calipers. Thanks again for all the help.


Really the 87-93 setup is not worth the money. The cars are virtually the same weight and the 87-93 brakes are well known for being terrible. They are better than your current set up but still they are aweful. Your best bet is to look into an aftermarket brake company to really upgrade your system. SSBC is one of the companies you can look into. The only problem with them is that they use specific pads for their set up only. Get into contact with Maximum Motorsports, SSBC, and Baer. They will be able to offer some better braking options. They do cost a bit more money but the first top you make a quick stop well short of the deer or the person who slammed on their brakes in front of you, you will realize just how valuable brake are. If aftermarket is not the way you want to go and you would like to switch to 5 lug in the process, then check out some SN95 take off parts.
 
Jay is right if you are going hi-po but if you are a stock GT, the method I covered will be fine. I drive in mountains every day on freeways with no fear. I really do like the slotted/cross-drilled rotors! And I do have the stock 10 holes. Going any further would require new wheels/tires. Please, feel free to email me direct at [email protected] if you run into problems or want further info. The link from SwAmPf0x provides pretty good info. You will really love the car when done! Don't be like me and wait so long! I bought my Capri in 88 and waited until a couple of years ago. Go for it now! Your life depends on it! 10 " just is not safe, why else would Ford make that change?
Good luck!
Mikey