How much faster/How fast could my car be with this $$ ??

[streetstang67]

I'm still stuck in a rut about what to do about whether to sell the stang to get a good daily driver or keep it, but that aside; Provided I keep the car, the first thing I do will make it faster. Check my sig for current specs. How much faster could my car be with $1000...$2000? How much faster could my car be with aftermarket heads...cam...nitrous? I'd really like to keep costs near $1500 or less. What mods should I do? How much hp will I make with those mods? And about how fast will my car run in the quarter?

 

[DarkBuddha]

Uh, you want us to tell you how much faster it would be with more mods, but you don't tell us how fast it is now. I'm assuming you basically want the best bang for you buck kinda thing. If so, here's my take on it based on if I had $1500 to spend to make a daily driver faster...

First, I think I'd want good reliable horsepower and probably more torque. With that in mind, I'd probably go with either a aluminum head and cam combo from Holley or Edelbrock or the like; or I would do a cheaper head upgrade (like Windsors or used GT40s), a cam, and an EFI conversion. I'm assuming the motor is a good recent rebuild with pretty low mileage (under 20k).

Hope this helps...

 

[streetstang67]

The motor has less than 5K on it. I dont know how fast it is now...haven't taken it to the strip, but I want it to be faster. And I haven't commited to making it a daily driver yet.

 

[mustangdave]

I don't know that you could do it for $1500 but: aluminum heads, (AFR), a mild cam, and a more aggresive intake, (Performer rpm air gap or Weiand stealth), and you would gain a ton of torque and top end. Your probably looking at $2,000 easy though; the little parts kill you.

 

[66bluefb]

I had around 310 hp in my 66-302 with a 4 speed.When I changed to a c-4 so my wife could drive the car I had to buy a stall converter.I learned the hard way because I went with the stock converter first and it was doggie.But a 2500 stall in it and it came alive.So you can probably count on a new stall.I have since added AFR heads and will probably have to go higher.

 

[gp001]

Hate to be the one to turn the power off to the karaoke machine at this party, but you fail to list what chassis mods you've done and what size tires are limiting the fantasy express. $2000 worth of mods can get you some stout hp, but without the ability to harness it you are just building a set of numbers ( XXX hp, XXX tq). You seem to be obsessed with "how fast" and "how much power" but not about building a proper platform for the entire package.

 

[Fostang]

First I wouldn't see that car running faster than a 15.0 in the quarter.

Second well there is much more than just going fast especially if you want it to last.

Third making it grab traction is far more important than how much power your engine can put out.

With those points being said. I'd spray, slicks, and some traction device if it was just for quarter action and I wanted it as cheap as possible. Given enough spray and some traction I see a 12 sec run. OR Heads, Cam, Intake, Carb, Slicks, Traction bars, and beef up the tranny.

 

[68DARKHORSE]

Aluminum heads won't be worth the extra $s if you don't raise your compression. Assuming you have 289 heads, any head change will result in slightly lower compression.

You can spray if you have forged pistons and rods. I'd rather go for the improved breathing. No tanks to refill, more reliable, and better all around power (not just at WOT).


For the budget you have come up with:
heads : Windsor Jrs, GT40s, GT40Ps
Cam : Comp 270S (282S if you like it rough)
roller rockers
hardened push rods
2500stall converter (don't forget the tranny cooler)
under rider traction bars

You can go to an Air Gap intake at a later time. If your Holley is in good shape, it should be fine for this setup. You can always make adjustments.

 

[streetstang67]

Ok, so basically the main things suggested are heads, cam and a torque converter...along with good traction.

Fostang, you said "Given enough spray and some traction I see a 12 sec run."
Remember that my 289 is basically stock, so a 100hp shot is probably the max, right?

Also, your suggesting these things, but what I'd like to know is about how much hp they will make my engine have, and an estimate of what it would run at the strip. (I realize there are a lot of "variables", but any guess is good)

Thanks

 

[68DARKHORSE]

300+hp and low 13s is my guess.

 

[Fostang]

Have you ever thought of building a nice roller engine for it. These will take 150 shot because of the forged pistons.

Yeah I wouldn't go over say 125 with the pistons you have in the 289.

Bump the compression up to 9.5 with some shaved steel gt 40's not p's should cost around $500, B cam or equivalent if keeping your short block, rr's 1.7's if using a b cam, 670 cfm carb, 2500 rpm stall, shift kit, 100 shot, traction bars, slicks, and your in solid with the 12's.

Total Cost buying used and getting deals: 500+100+150+300+150+350+100+100=$1,750 using your short block but a used good roller around $250 and don't forget sub frame conectors.

But I guarantee you'll be in solid in the 12's with good traction. HP estimate on nitrous (100 shot) 350 FWHP

 

[2nd Mustang]

The motor has less than 5K on it. I dont know how fast it is now...haven't taken it to the strip, but I want it to be faster. And I haven't commited to making it a daily driver yet.

I have a 67 coupe with a 302 that makes descent hp. I love driving it on the weekends and all, but it makes for a terrible daily driver. The feeling of power and speed is great, but after a day of work, the quiet drive of an automatic econo pickup helps calm the soul. Save the madness for the weekends!

 

[triostang]

i dont know... the feeling of power and speed does calm my soul even after a day of
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