My engine is toast.

blue66tang

blue66tang

Founding Member
Jan 20, 2001
1,092
0
0
Medford, OR
#1
Well i was on the freeway this moring cruzing at 2500 rpm in overdrive when the engine squeeled and locked up. My brother and I pulled it home and i drained the oil. Nothing but water came out for the first 10-20 seconds and then it changed to oil real fast. So it seems the water drained into teh pan after the engine locke up. If it drained in while it was running it would have mixed with the oil. So then i pulled the spark plugs, #1 was smacke up pretty good. My guess is that it droped a valve, smacked the piston, cracked the cylinder and drained the water into the pan. What do you guys think. I cant even take it apart till I am done with school in 6 weeks.

What do you guys think i should build next. I am leaning towards a 331-347 strocker motor. What is the best years for that combo. I would like to use a late model roller block. I am hopping for mid to low 12s in the quarter mile. I had a 13.4 with the engine that just blew up. I think if i had a set of slicks and some good tuning i think i could have pulled off some mid 12s with that engine.
Give me some feedback. I feel like crap right now, this sucks.
 

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#3
blue66tang said:
What do you guys think i should build next. I am leaning towards a 331-347 strocker motor. What is the best years for that combo. I would like to use a late model roller block. I am hopping for mid to low 12s in the quarter mile. I had a 13.4 with the engine that just blew up. I think if i had a set of slicks and some good tuning i think i could have pulled off some mid 12s with that engine.
Give me some feedback. I feel like crap right now, this sucks.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry about your engine. Short of my car being totalled in an accident, completely wrecking the engine is my #2 worst nightmare. Its even worse not having time to fix it.

If you dont plan on using the stock heads(and for a stroker I hope you dont), look for an '84+ Mustang 302 or a '96+ 5.0 Explorer engine. If you get an 'intake to oil pan' Explorer engine, you can sell the EFI parts for some extra cash(heads and intake are equal to those of a '93 Cobra). 347s can be reliable, but some will argue that they still have oil consumption issues. 331s apparently dont have problems at all. You might also consider a roller block 351W. Mid-12s with traction should be no problem with a stout 302, let alone a stroker or 351W.
 
#4
I used to post on this site a while back. My 65 got totalled when I was on the way to drop off an application. Bad part was, when I later turned in the application, I still didn't get the job. So believe me things could be way worse. Hope you have another daily driver. Good luck and you will love the new engine whatever it is.
 
#5
blue66tang said:
Well i was on the freeway this moring cruzing at 2500 rpm in overdrive when the engine squeeled and locked up. My brother and I pulled it home and i drained the oil. Nothing but water came out for the first 10-20 seconds and then it changed to oil real fast. So it seems the water drained into teh pan after the engine locke up. If it drained in while it was running it would have mixed with the oil. So then i pulled the spark plugs, #1 was smacke up pretty good. My guess is that it droped a valve, smacked the piston, cracked the cylinder and drained the water into the pan. What do you guys think. I cant even take it apart till I am done with school in 6 weeks.

What do you guys think i should build next. I am leaning towards a 331-347 strocker motor. What is the best years for that combo. I would like to use a late model roller block. I am hopping for mid to low 12s in the quarter mile. I had a 13.4 with the engine that just blew up. I think if i had a set of slicks and some good tuning i think i could have pulled off some mid 12s with that engine.
Give me some feedback. I feel like crap right now, this sucks.
Click to expand...



seems to me that because water and oil dont really mix at all, you can tell what happened first based on the fact that water came out first. unless you changed the oil like 10 seconds after the engine quit running, they would have had pleanty of time to seperate again. either way it sucks and i hope you get it all squared away.
 
#7
Thanks guys. I am not quite sure how I am going to pay for the new engine. I think I am just going to have to take out a little larger loan for next school year. I do pretty well during the summer so I dont realy have any loans yet. Anyway, yeah i was leaning towards the late model block and putting a 331 stroker kit in it. Also a set of AFR 225cc heads. I dont want to go to the 351 for fitment issues and also because i have a victor jr intake, and ignition for the 289-302.

As far as what happend, im not sure yet. I am back at school now(three hours from the car). I was just home for the weekend. I still think the water draind into the pan after the engine froze. Other wise the oil would have been milky white. It takes a while for water and oil to separate after been mixed all around. I had a truck that somehow got water into the oil and it was milky white for about a week before I drained it. (That engine was toast too, but it had a good life off 542,000 miles, no joke).

So back to the new engine, anybody know how much it would cost to have a block made ready for a 331 kit. Thanks.
 
#9
For a 331 stroker, AFR 185's are big enough. That's what I and several others run.
As for blocks, get the best you can afford. Don't skimp on the important things, because that's what usually fails first.
Unless you can do the motor work yourself, I'd look at a crate motor from keith craft or others. You can't really put a good stroker together for under $10K if you're paying labor to get it done. And if you're spending that kind of money you might as well do it right the first time. All the little things add up quickly. I can easily list 7K in parts before the labor even starts and I know I'd probably miss a few.

Think twice work once. Good luck
 
#13
Oops i meant a set of 205cc heads. What can I say I like big cams, big carbs and big heads. I like my engines to wind out. I would like to shift at about 7000-7200rpm.
This build should be alot cheaper than building a motor from scratch. I already have a carb, intake manifold, roller rockers, ignition and fuel delivery. So what i need is the rotating assembly, and cam shaft and heads (long block).
My brother will probobly be doing the work for me, he use to own a NAPA parts store and he was the Mechinist, and he still has all his equipment. So do you guys think i could put a long block together for about 4k including a set of afr 205 heads.

12sec67. Yeah ill take your specs.

What do you guys think about me just getting a late model short block (forged pistons), sticking a big cam in it, bolting on a set of heads and all my good stuff, and then just running it till it throws a rod out. That is kinda an option right now.
 
#14
roller 306
napa racing kit rebuild kit w/
melling high volume oil pump (came with kit)
10:1 flat top hyper pistons
put together with ARP bolts/ balanced
edelbrock rpm heads 2.02/ 1.60
shaved .30 thousandths made it 10.5:1
1.6 rockers - F cam
old style RPM intake(box stock), 2" spacer, 650 DP
windage tray, 8 quart pan
MSD distributer, and 6A box,coil


told ya it was a cheap build :D
 
#15
AFR 185's and an X-cam will get you to low 12's high 11's. The stock rods will work along with the stock forged pistons. Although if you get a 351w, the block will be there for future stupid mods. IE Nitrous/turbo :p
 
#16
3spd on floor said:
seems to me that because water and oil dont really mix at all, you can tell what happened first based on the fact that water came out first. unless you changed the oil like 10 seconds after the engine quit running, they would have had pleanty of time to seperate again. either way it sucks and i hope you get it all squared away.
Click to expand...

Water can emulsify in water if run through an engine and will either be suspended in solution indefinitely, or very close to.

I just spent 2 grand putting a new uncracked head on our falcon, because of its common head and gasket failures, and thus milky oil.
 
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