Another satisfying THUNK!

[gator5.0]

Just want to say thanks to jrichker for the actuator retrofit. I finished today on my '93 LX and the "thunk!" sound is wonderful. My only problem now is that the driver's side switch doesn't work, but the passenger side controls both locks fine. The driver's side window switches work fine, just not the lock switch. After searching the forum I am guessing I have a broken wire in the conduit between the door and the body. No time to check it today, that will be next weekends project. But it will be nice to lock the doors again (been almost a year!). Thanks again jrichker!

 

[Saleen0679]

Have you tried swapping the driver's side and passenger's side lock switches? The individual switches just unplug from the switch assembly.

 

[HISSIN50]

I hear ya - I did his retrofit a couple years ago. His engineering design will long outlast the car. LOL.

As an aside on the current (no pun intended) issue, did you remove the ground wire that is in the center of the door? I thought you might have while doing the actuator install.

Good luck.

 

[gator5.0]

Nope, I didn't try swapping them, maybe I will get to that this week sometime. I didn't touch the ground, so I doubt that is the problem, but if nothing else works I will be taking the panel back off and I can check it then. Thanks guys.

 

[jrichker]

got to love that "Thunk"!...

 

[HISSIN50]

Mine makes a chirmP noise (it is quite forceful though).

 

[gator5.0]

Well, I tried swapping the switches but the don't fit (there is a tap that has a different shape for the passenger vs driver side) so I benched tested them. They both work identically. So I hooked the meter up in the car and I know I am not getting 12V to the driver side switch harness (this is just the lock switch, the windows work fine on both sides). How do I get the boot off between the door and the body without cutting it, so I can check the wires in there? Or is my problem in the harness under the drivers side kick panel (which I have not attempted to locate or check yet.)

 

[HISSIN50]

The closest lock harness connectors are in the driver kick - just like you figured. If you remove the kick, the harness would be right at about the same height as the top of the kick. Pretty much right in front too. Look for wires with a primary color of Pink (at least on my 88).
That is the logical place to check for continuity IMHO.

Good luck.

 

[Mean86GT]

link to this kit, my actuators are pieces of ****

 

[gator5.0]

Mustang Door Lock Actuator Retrofit

Keep in mind, the 1/4 inch fender washers are only needed if you have the plastic actuator mounts (I did ) If that is the case, you will need a 1/4-20 x 1" bolt and a 1/4-20 nut (not listed under the parts callout). You may have to cut down the bolt, but no biggie, I used a 1.5" and cut it with a dremel.

The project is pretty easy to do, cheap, but you may need to do a little garage engineering on your own to make them just right. Good luck.

 

[Saleen0679]

Well, I tried swapping the switches but the don't fit (there is a tap that has a different shape for the passenger vs driver side)

That was my bad. The diagrams don't always show component keys. I was also probably thinking of the windows switches as far as interchangeability. I just acquired a copy of the '93 EVTM so if you want a copy of the door lock diagram just PM me with your email and I can shoot you a copy.