ARRRRRGH, SO CLOSE!

[88GeeTee]

well, my car ALMOST passed emissions this time, only failing by the idle HC's (Hydrocarbons), only by 62 points. i say "only" because last time it failed by over 1200 points, so this is a DRASTIC improvement, it's amazing what new lower intake manifold gaskets (the fancy kind that SEAL!) will do for those numbers. but my problem now is this, HOW do i get that LAST little bit? here is the "skinny" on the car...no cats (DON'T want these, i am so close, there has to be a way to pass without these...), Thermactor pump inop code (that's the ONLY code, i think its because of the cats being missing, but i might be wrong), purge canister missing, no vacuum leaks (anymore, lol), all stock except for 70mm TB, MAC shorty headers, dual exhaust with SLP mufflers and AC Delete pulley. can anyone give me any pointers on lowering the idle HC's? i really don't wanna put cats on this car, as it is going with me to Texas in about 3 weeks, no need to "castrate" it with cats when it will soon be in the "Land of NO Emissions" (the South).

Josh

 

[HISSIN50]

What is your timing set at?

 

[stangjunkie]

run some race gas to clean the whole thing out once its empty put pump back in

 

[RMODEL65]

make sure ur cars hot when they test it!

 

[mustangphil]

Into 1/4 tank of gas I poured 1gal of denaturated alcohol (avilable in any hardware store for about 12 bucks) and here are before and after results.

 

[88GeeTee]

my timing is at 14* base. i think i will try that trick, Phil...how long did you drive around to let the alcohol get into the engine?

Josh

 

[mustangphil]

my timing is at 14* base. i think i will try that trick, Phil...how long did you drive around to let the alcohol get into the engine?

Josh

A few miles, basicly from the store to the inspection station and as soon as I was done I filled up with premium. I heard of guys dumping 5 gallons in and basicly running on that through inspection.

 

[88GeeTee]

cool, i will try that here soon, might run some seafoam in the intake and change my oil too...it's not really that old, but after doing the seafoam i will change it


Josh

 

[Euphoric306]

drop your timing down to 8* and you should pass

 

[Euphoric306]

btw good job with trying to pass with no cats, i was wondering whether it could be done or not

 

[jrichker]

High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing
High CO - EGR isn't working - fix it.
High HC - fuel mixture too rich - check O2 sensors, smog pump, and cats. Clean MAF element. Do the ethanol thing as suggested.

Some general help...

How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/det...iption.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.

 

[Sicarius428]

Drop your timing to 10* and actually running regular gas might help too. You get a quicker burn which will create more heat, more explosive. Somebody correct me if I am wrong on that please.
Kevin

 

[luckythirteen13]

set base timing at 8*
when i almost failed the HC with my ranger the smog tech said high HC is due to a weak ignition system. change your plugs. if you havent already, now is a good time to upgrade to msd wires and coil. he also said, high octane is better then low octane for smog

 

[Black1987Stang]

Im not up on smog machines but i know they have filters in there and some places dont like to change them regularly, my one friend with his honda had some crazy number like in the 1,000s then the next week he was down to where its supposed to be ( i think 225 or something?) and he did nothing to the car..Maybe you can find out when they change it and go before it can get clogged up alot? I would drop ur timing to 8 or 10...make sure engine is nice and hot...Ive seen stuff u put in the gas that guarantees a car to pass, never used it so dont no if it works, think its in a yellow bottle?...Ive also heard some people loosing up some header to mid pipe connections so they have an exhaust leak and that i heard helps out so the machine doesnt get all the exhaust. and ive heard something about making a vacuum leak and that helps, I cant see how, maybe if it has a speed density system? Im just saying what ive heard....I would just make sure the engine is running nice and clean by itself, nice and hot etc... Good luck

 

[JIffy94]

hmm

I used to work for the emissions testing center here in Colorado, and am surprised you don't fail immediatly for visual inspection...that is unless you either dont hae a visual or have the heat shileds welded on to make it look like it has them...But anyways, the ones here in colorado, lanes would go into whats called 3 point. Thats where it shuts the lane down for like 5 min to test itslef and makesure the lane is detecting the right amount of gases..If it fails then we would have to shut the lane down and call for a tech to fix it....And then when we closed at night we would have to do daily checks with a much tighter tolerence for measuring the gases, and weekly checks to make sure the lanes were applying the correct amount of load to the rollers....Lots of testing, time consuming and very annoying. You would be suprised at how much really goes into it and how much they try to eliminate the human error factor, which is very very hard....A driver can easily make the car pass or fail with how hard he or she drives the car...

 

[88GeeTee]

well, Phil, THANK YOU! i passed by simply adding denatured alcohol to the tank! passed well, actually. as for "can a Stang pass without cats, BET YOUR ASS IT CAN!", mine did. as far as a visual inspection...WA doesn't do 'em. or i have never had one. thanks to all who helped, i really appreciate it guys!

Josh

 

[Fiend]

HC Idle Fail

I just went throught the same ordeal about two hours ago. After two fails for HC on Idle, I changed out the plugs. Set my timing to 8° and added a gallon of denatured Alcohol. They were suprised that it passed the third time. But she ran perfect and gave a nice reading. Anyway just wanted to say thanks for the info guys. Now I am going to put my new sticker on, good for another year.

 

[92importkiller]

thats what i like about arkansas. NO emissions AT ALL. run open headers it doesn't matter