Ohh GOD !!! who knew putting a dizzy back in was such a hassle? Can anyone help a brother out with some clues as to how to do this without screwing it up a million times first?
Stabbing dizzy???
- Thread starter 95WhiteVenom
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Zero Signal
Active Member
The only good way to do it is to taking a couple photos before removing it. I put a scratch on the dist. shaft and the block to note it's position and I took a pic of the dizzy straight down on it.
well i didn't mark it when i lifted it just did a timing mark. I have since turned over the motor and it will not crank, now I have no idea how to get this working right.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Your timing is probably out of wack! You'll need to reset the timing:
You need to get #1 piston to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke. To find this, you'll need to take out the spark plug for #1 cylinder and have someone turn the motor while you put your finger in it. When it pushes your finger with air, you know you're on the compression stroke. Then, install the dizzy so that it (the rotor)is pointing to the "1" on the cap. Start the car and set the timing with a timing light.
If the car doesn't start when you get the #1 piston to TDC you probably have it 180* out(or you didn't get it on the compression stroke). So in this case, you'll need to get the rotor pointing back to the one, then pull the dizzy back out, rotate the motor a full turn, then reinstall the dizzy like I said above and this time she'll fire up!
As long as you didn't unplug any of your wires, this will work. If you mixed up your firing order, you'll need to get the firing order and make sure all your wires are going to the proper cylinders.
You need to get #1 piston to TDC (top dead center) on the compression stroke. To find this, you'll need to take out the spark plug for #1 cylinder and have someone turn the motor while you put your finger in it. When it pushes your finger with air, you know you're on the compression stroke. Then, install the dizzy so that it (the rotor)is pointing to the "1" on the cap. Start the car and set the timing with a timing light.
If the car doesn't start when you get the #1 piston to TDC you probably have it 180* out(or you didn't get it on the compression stroke). So in this case, you'll need to get the rotor pointing back to the one, then pull the dizzy back out, rotate the motor a full turn, then reinstall the dizzy like I said above and this time she'll fire up!
As long as you didn't unplug any of your wires, this will work. If you mixed up your firing order, you'll need to get the firing order and make sure all your wires are going to the proper cylinders.
CManT1914
New Member
Methodical
Active Member
First of all, if you have not done so already, you need to mark the balancer’s timing marks with white paint or something for the timing you are targeting. [I Marked 0, 10, 12 and 14 degrees on my balancer and used a toothpick to highlight the numbers as well. Now you need to locate TDC on the compression stroke. Here’s how I do it. I remove the No. 1 spark plug and place my thumb over the spark plug hole while turning the crank pulley – clockwise. I use a 15” breaker bar and remove the belt to make turning easier. When I feel pressure on the thumb I know the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. Note: If you were to remove your thumb when you feel the pressure, it will hiss (i.e. compressed air escaping). Now here’s where marking balancer’s timing marks come in handy. As I continue to turn the crank and feel the pressure I look down at the timing marks so that I can align the timing pointer with “0” or TDC (Very Important). At this point you can also take a flash light, if you wish, and see that the piston is at the top of the stroke. Now just set the rotor to face the 1 spark plug wire mount and set distributor in so that the number 1 plug wire on cap sits about in the center of the intake manifold - this gives you room to advance timing. Now once you've done that, turn the distributor a little to the right (facing the engine) to advance timing so the car will start easily. Then you can remove the pill and check timing. Another tip, I also numbered my distributor cap for each corresponding wire and the MSD wires came with numbers that fit around each spark plug wire that I also installed. Now, I can remove the wires and not worry about keeping track of the location of the wires<?***:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o
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Tip: If you remove your distributor always make a reference mark if you plan to reuse the same distributor – it will go back the way it came out as long as you don’ turn the motor. However, if you use a new distributor just retime as illustrated above and save yourself the time, hassle and frustration because the new onejust don’t seem to align with the marks from the previous distributor. <o></o>
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Peace
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></o>Tip: If you remove your distributor always make a reference mark if you plan to reuse the same distributor – it will go back the way it came out as long as you don’ turn the motor. However, if you use a new distributor just retime as illustrated above and save yourself the time, hassle and frustration because the new onejust don’t seem to align with the marks from the previous distributor. <o
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></o>Peace
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thanks guys im gonna try it first thing in the morning. appreciate all the help. I hope this bad boy fiires off in the morning cause it will be the first time in 5 months that it has been in perfect running order. Can't wait to get out and start ripping through some gears!
CManT1914
New Member
Chris what all have you done to it over the winter? Until last night, I hadn't talked to you in a while, and I've been gone from SN for a long time too.
Swarzkopf
Member
I'd like to add...
I always pull the cap and mark the location of the rotor inside the distributor (in addition to marking the outside of the shaft and the engine block) when I pull the distributor, just in case the cam gear/shaft spins a bit during removal and installation.
I always pull the cap and mark the location of the rotor inside the distributor (in addition to marking the outside of the shaft and the engine block) when I pull the distributor, just in case the cam gear/shaft spins a bit during removal and installation.
Methodical
Active Member
No i seem to be a freaking retard at this i've tried about everything but I do have a friend coming over later today to help out with it. He knows like a million times more than me about this. I'm just totally frustrated at the whole thing I just want my car back in running order. Which I hope will be about 6pm today.
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