Cooling issue..but not problem

[DMAN302]

Been putting some miles on the car today and noticed that with the 180 stat she kept 180 to under 190 all day in traffic..highest point was parked in the driveway after I got back for 10 minutes, gauge reached 190-193 range. Now after pulling into the garage and shutting down the wife asked me to run to the store. Now when I fired her back up (two minutes after I had come back the first time) the temp was 200's..which I attribute to heat soak after shut down..no problem. Now the issue is the car was not able to get the temp back into the 180's again..even after some good time behind the wheel (far past the store ) she held solid 195 to just under 200 all day wether cruise or idle. Now the conclusion I'm coming to is my stock old rad is able to keep up with the temps when they come up, but unable to disapate enough heat to actually get the temps back down once they get up. That has me thinking a new 3 core is in order..likely brass (cheaper and available)...is my thinking reasonable? Water pump is Eddy high flow and new..hoses new...Tstat 180 is new and seems to be holding well...clutch fan and fan are new...rad is OLD calcium filled but has held up till now. Just for info..weathe today 85 and 55 percent humidity..hot but not crazy hot yet.

 

[DMAN302]

hello?....anyone...?

 

[HISSIN50]

Derek, it sounds like your radiator could stand renewing.

My only other thought: you'd know way better than us, but the t-stat is still making me wonder..............

No help but a bumpity for ya.

 

[DMAN302]

Well I was out for an hour and the stat was perfect 180-190 in stop and go..higher temp (over 200)was after I restarted the car..it was already at 205 (as stated I blame heat soak for the elevated temps cause I shut down at 190. Now with the car at 200 plus I drove for quite some time attempting to get the temp to come back down....but it just wouldn't, it was staying elevated but not increasing. My thought was simply the system (stat and pump) can do their job to hold temp but the rad seems like it can't disapate the heat once it gets up there. Thanks for the thoughts JT..I will swap the rad and the stat at the same time to cover both bases..the inside of my present rad is not pretty anyways..alot of build up.

 

[srothfuss]

I am familiar with your car but not your hood... Are there any openings for the heat to get out of? [from the frist drive?]

My thought and it's just a thought: When you turn off the motor, your mechanical fan stops spinning. Without any air flowing past your radiator fins, the radiator itself starts to heat up. Now your engine bay is "pre-heated." When you got back in your car and started driving the fan / wind speed was able to move some of the heat to reduce your engine temps down to a more desirable level. But not back to normal because of the higher starting temperatures of the radiator. Solution, lift the hood and let the heat out.

 

[DMAN302]

Yeah that is definately a solution but shouldn't be necessary..I want to get in the car and not have to worry about temps...my thinking is a 200,000 mile rad thats calcuim filed is probably not optimum pc to be using. the fresh rad is due and IMO just part of maintenace, I was considering going Efan but i will likely stick with the new rad and the clutch for this yr. thanks for the time and thoughts.

 

[srothfuss]

A new radiator always helps... When I switched from my stocker to the brass 3 core, the temps became more stable

 

[DMAN302]

That's what I expect..my system has shown it can maintain in the 80's..but what about when the 90's roll around? I honestly since having the new motor in have not spent more than 20 minute rides in the car, so today was the longest ride to date in it's 300 miles. Really getting out this yr means being out in the heat...judging by todays experiences some maintence will be required to stabalize things. I don't expect to run 180 perfect all the time but I want my system to be able to handle what will come it's way. I think a decent system should be able to keep within 10 degrees of stat rating (without A/C) in anything under110 outside if all components are in order.

 

[91lxttrim]

After finally solving my cooling issues, replacing everything involved in the cooling process, I had to go back to my clutch fan (elec. fan was the weak link), and it's great. BUT, When I park it I feel like it would be nice to have a small fan to cool it after the clutch fan stops doing it's job.

Sounds like a new radiator is in order for you though. Good luck

 

[mustangsally29]

Hey DMAN Just curious as to what radiation you bought and how it worked out do the temps stay below 180 degrees now? and do you have any more trouble with the a/c on, i am having similar concerns. I live in PA and in 90 degree weather if i get on my car it will quickly approach the red zone on the guage and run like poopy. any idea's anyone?

 

[whtpny]

I bought a new 3 core Modine rad from a budy at a local CarQuest for $215 car idled for 20 minutes in gear at 95 degrees today and temps barely changed. Seems like a darn good rad for the money. I wlould pick up a new one before that main heat hits and you are ready for a long cruise. Keep us updated.

 

[HISSIN50]

For the guys with heat soak, it should go right away upon starting the car back up (within 30 seconds to a minute). Having the E-fan spin after shut-off does seem to help with this though.

Derek, good luck with it mate! I'm sure it will be running awesome afterwards and it's not like you didnt get your money's worth outta that old rad.

MustangSally, he hasnt bought anything yet (that I know of). I'd suggest that you start your own thread so you can do a quick introduction (welcome!) and post more info about your specific issues. Otherwise, the posts tend to run together and no one knows whose post was intended for what person. Good luck.