I noticed my car gets really hot when i punch it, and cools back down when cruising. So i guess i should of got a better radiotor.... will this one be good enough? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLD-FHP20-95MU&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Radiator?
- Thread starter Guero
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badstang123
New Member
badstang123
New Member
This is what I did to my car and it made a world of difference.
1. Fluidyne Radiator
2. 160* T-Stat (Most recommend 180*)
3. Fan wired to come on w/ ignition
4. Distilled water with two bottles of water wetter
1. Fluidyne Radiator
2. 160* T-Stat (Most recommend 180*)
3. Fan wired to come on w/ ignition
4. Distilled water with two bottles of water wetter
badstang123
New Member
Guero, if you dont mind doing a little fabbing, you can get a universal radiator instead. It'll be half the price. Then you could use that saved money for something like a different fan (if needed) or a DcController if you want (if you are tired of hitting a manual fan switch, etc). For the temps we see, that fan controller is awesome.
You're a hands on kind of guy, so I thought you might want to save a couple bucks. Then again, having a radiator that's made for the application is kinda nice (I am too poor for that and got a universal).
Good luck bud.
You're a hands on kind of guy, so I thought you might want to save a couple bucks. Then again, having a radiator that's made for the application is kinda nice (I am too poor for that and got a universal).
Good luck bud.
i was looking at those to. Not sure, yet. Might get the one thats made for my car. My engine bay looks really clean right now, and im not sure how the Iniversal one might look. Whats a DcContoller? I dont have any manuel switches for the fan on my ride.
badstang123
New Member
HISSIN50 said:
This is true. If you don't mind taking some extra time for the install you could save some cash. I doubt the Fluidyne performs any better than the type of universal one that Hissin is talking about. I have seen some good looking installs with these that people have done. If you take your time there is no reason the install can't look as good as the Fluidyne. I just got really mad one day because the thing was getting so damn hot
that I went and bought it and threw it in right then. I just couldn't take the high temps anymore. I also add that the fitment of the Fluidyne was great.I would definately do something with the fan too though. With it coming on at such high temps even with a cooler t-stat and radiator, your still going to end up hitting high temps. I just wired mine on with a relay. As soon as the ignition comes on so does my fan. I've had it that way for a few years and it works great. Also you never have to flip a switch it does it all automatically. And it'll will probably cost you $10 to do.
- Justin
www.DcControl.com
It's a fan controller. You set what temp you want the car to run at and if your cooling system is up to par, that's what it runs at. It's a variable controller - no relays, etc. It starts out with light fan spinning and ramps it up and down as needed (it's not just on or off). Awesome unit!
It's a fan controller. You set what temp you want the car to run at and if your cooling system is up to par, that's what it runs at. It's a variable controller - no relays, etc. It starts out with light fan spinning and ramps it up and down as needed (it's not just on or off). Awesome unit!
Another thing to check is the two main radiator hoses. If they do not have the spring inside of them, they could be collapsing when the rpms are high. It would only be one of the hoses, but I can't remember which one. Just look under the hood at the hoses and rev it and see if either of the big hoses collapses down and then comes back to normal when the rpm's are back at idle. This would restrict coolant flow through the system when the revs are up. I'm sure that the aftermarket radiator (like what the others have suggested) would be a good idea, since it seems most people on here have cooling issues when they have modded their cars or live in hot climates (or even worse, both!!). Good luck.
because its variable speed you hook it up to the high speed terminal. that way it dosent just start out trying to go full speed like a switch would, it brings the fan up to speed gradually.final5-0 said:Hey JT
I was wondering if it only controls the low speed fan
Grady
i have the summit universal radiator and recently installed a spal fan controller. simple hookup and you can actually just tap into your stock ECT sensor wire for the temp
MysticKeith50
New Member
It really couldn't hurt to replace the radiator since our stock one is a joke!!lol...does any one know how much the fluidyne is?
Grady, Urban's got it. 
It's completely variable. When I reach 187*F (the temp threshold I set it to for a 180 Mr G t-stat), it starts ramping up (like a jet engine spooling up). It simply keeps ramping up more and more to keep the car at 187 (it's designed to run +/- 1.5*F of the temp setting, as I recall from Brian's tech specs). It ramps down just the same way.
Because it's variable, as Urban said, you connect it up to high speed fan terminal only because that allows the fan to run at it's full potential if needed. But because it soft starts, there's no shock to the electrical system (start up fan draw, etc). and it keeps engine temps stable.
It also turns on the fan to 50% with AC (when you are below 187*F - it obviously ramps up more once you reach 187*F). And there's an U/D jumper for you guys with pulleys - it runs the fan at 10% at all times to help compensate for the UD's.
For anyone in a hot climate, it's a great thing (that is, for the non-tuning crowd who cant adjust the factory thresholds). But even with being able to do so, the variable nature of the controller blows away antiquated relays and on/off switches.
Y'all know I'm a poor SOB, and that controller was worth every penny! And Brian's a super busy guy (he's the owner - a one man show), but his tech advice is second to none - he will take care of anyone who has issues (and there are some real stupid people out there who ask him some real stupid questions). Top notch product.
The FK-35 is what he recommends for the SN95 fan. Get the optional LED that he offers - you can see how hard the fan is working. I got the rheostat too - I can dial in the exact temp that the controller wants to keep the car at - I like to fiddle with things like that. You can do the same thing with jumpers on the controller itself, but the rheostat allows one to make adjustments from the cockpit.
It's completely variable. When I reach 187*F (the temp threshold I set it to for a 180 Mr G t-stat), it starts ramping up (like a jet engine spooling up). It simply keeps ramping up more and more to keep the car at 187 (it's designed to run +/- 1.5*F of the temp setting, as I recall from Brian's tech specs). It ramps down just the same way.
Because it's variable, as Urban said, you connect it up to high speed fan terminal only because that allows the fan to run at it's full potential if needed. But because it soft starts, there's no shock to the electrical system (start up fan draw, etc). and it keeps engine temps stable.
It also turns on the fan to 50% with AC (when you are below 187*F - it obviously ramps up more once you reach 187*F). And there's an U/D jumper for you guys with pulleys - it runs the fan at 10% at all times to help compensate for the UD's.
For anyone in a hot climate, it's a great thing (that is, for the non-tuning crowd who cant adjust the factory thresholds). But even with being able to do so, the variable nature of the controller blows away antiquated relays and on/off switches.
Y'all know I'm a poor SOB, and that controller was worth every penny! And Brian's a super busy guy (he's the owner - a one man show), but his tech advice is second to none - he will take care of anyone who has issues (and there are some real stupid people out there who ask him some real stupid questions). Top notch product.
The FK-35 is what he recommends for the SN95 fan. Get the optional LED that he offers - you can see how hard the fan is working. I got the rheostat too - I can dial in the exact temp that the controller wants to keep the car at - I like to fiddle with things like that. You can do the same thing with jumpers on the controller itself, but the rheostat allows one to make adjustments from the cockpit.
I have no issues with mine JT but ... what you talked about ........
Well ... It just made me wanna know more
I did use the link you provided but it just would not load up for me
Besides ... You're such a Good Splainer
It really does sound like the best thing one could do if they can't get a-hold of the pcm values to lower them.
I know its gotta be a WHOLE LOT cheaper as well
Grady
Well ... It just made me wanna know more
I did use the link you provided but it just would not load up for me
Besides ... You're such a Good Splainer
It really does sound like the best thing one could do if they can't get a-hold of the pcm values to lower them.
I know its gotta be a WHOLE LOT cheaper as well
Grady
badstang123
New Member
and summits universal ford one is pretty much the same just without the tabs welded on the edges and its $175badstang123 said:
MysticKeith50
New Member
MysticKeith50 said:wow...are alot of guys using the universal one.....and what tabs are you talking about.
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