HELP! no power after vortech installed

jared_blown5.0

New Member
Dec 27, 2005
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The car ran great before the vortech sq trim 6-8 psi kit was installed. I changed the injectors, and maf along witht he kit. I didnt use the fmu, or the msd boost redtard box, or the t-rex inline pump. eNow here is what happens the car starts and idles fine but start to run "rough" at about 2000-2500 r's to full throttle. It also most sounds like plugs arent in correct sequence (firing order) but has been checked a few times. Timing is now set at 10 deg with a plug gap of .035".

Also some other notes is that fuel pressure is set at 38 psi and when I take vacum off it doesnt drop at all it is the same. Also when car is shut off the fuel pressure starts to bleed off until there is zero pressure. My old setup would hold pressure for hours.

Could capping this off be the culprit maybe?
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l187/jlsx125/IMG_0215.jpg

Thanks in advance for helping me.
-Jared
 
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Well your regulator is supposed to increase FP when you take the vac line off of it. What kinda fuel pump are you running....If its not a 255lph you better get the t-rex on there and the msd BTM is really important too. Your motor isnt going to last long without those. Also you may be starving the motor of fuel because of a lack of an adequate pump, and hence the Fp does not increase w/ the vac line off. I'd be real careful driving that thing right now....you may blow somethng up. But yea assuming you have adequate fuel...I'd say the regulatpr may be bad or there is something causing a restriction in the fuel system.....like an old fuel filter for example.:D
 
dont go anywhere near wide open throttle without a wideband or atleast having it checked on a dyno.

what brand/size injectors? what MAF? stock ECU w/no tune? are you using the stock FPR still?

i recently had to replace my FPR with a kirban unit (stocker was bleeding off pressure pretty quickly and at idle w/no vac i was seeing 42PSI)
 
Did you install the ACT sensor after the blower discharge? That needs to be installed after the MAF but before the blower intake. Im surprised the car even idles.

You also need to install the FMU, the timing retard, and the extra pump before you grenade that thing.
 
One thing to check: I'd look at your fuel injector harnesses and see if they're all attached properly.

You can go and get a tune from a reputable tuner..and then you wouldn't have to worry about the btm/fmu (if you have 42lb/hr injectors or so). In my case, I went from 354rwhp/360rwtq, to 408 rwhp/398rwtq with a really simple change to my tune. All I did was change my A/F ratio a bit and picked up an easy 50hp. Basically what I'm saying is.....that there's a lot to be had from a tune.

It'd be really helpful if you could post up your combo/supporting parts. Gauges (such as fuel pressure and boost) are really helpful in determining power loss.

also, I'd really recommend going and getting a tune before you do anything else. It's realllllly easy to blow a headgasket with forced induction.
 
I have 38# injectors with a pro-m80, 255 lph intank pump with an aeromotive fpr. I have stock tune running I do not need to use the inline pump i was told by kennedys dynotune and was told to throw that fmu in the garbage lol.
 
Has anyone mentioned that you need either #1 a tune or #2 a lifetime supply of headgaskets? :-D

If you get a tune you can throw the FMU in the garbage, if not, stick it on ASAP along with a BTM!!!

I'll swap you an unused BTM from my S-trim for your fuel pump, wiring and relays if you are interested.

Wes
 
I have the btm just didnt install it... 10 deg with spout out. I am thinking that maybe the maf I bought used is not good... The car has way less power now than before i even puit the blower in. I am goin to put the 30# injectors/mass air in today and see if it free revs ok and doesnt run rough and take it from there.
 
I have the btm just didnt install it... 10 deg with spout out. I am thinking that maybe the maf I bought used is not good... The car has way less power now than before i even puit the blower in. I am goin to put the 30# injectors/mass air in today and see if it free revs ok and doesnt run rough and take it from there.


Look at my first reply. Is your ACT sensor after the blower discharge?
 
Jared

First of all ... PLEASE ... create an official sig

When doing a low boost kit like that
AND
Trying to avoid a tune

You stand the best chance of pulling that off by using mechanical adjustment
items like fmu, pusher pump, and boost retard.

You have omitted them but have not compensated for the lack of them with a tune.

You are trying to mix tuning methods and it is gonna cause you grief :Word:

What kind of injectors are rated at 38#'s :scratch:

What kind of cal do you have on your meter

Grady
 
Jared,

Geta tune... You really really need to if you plan to make any power and/or keep the engine in one piece (literally)...

A $500 tune will pay for itself in gas and grief in no time...

(BTW a signature is a wonderful thing... I get the occasional message asking about soemthng in my sig and I also do the same occasionally)...
 
i am running lucas 38 lbers and a 4-1 fmu with my combo ,it works well and makes ok power , the mass air might be your problem you can try running the car with the belt off to see if its boost related , and try gapping your plugs down even more, my car wouldn't run with them above 32 , and thats with a msd .
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I am getting a tune on the 23rd of july from kennedy's speedshop. I forgot to mention that. I have lucas 38# injectors with a pro-m 80 calibrated for 38's. Just bought 42's and a new meter. See if thats the problem.

Graddy- I know you are a tunning guru and an excellent one at that, im not trying to mix methods just trying to get it driveable so I can get it to the tuner to get a chip burned, sorry I didnt make that clear.
Thanks guys much appreciated.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I am getting a tune on the 23rd of july from kennedy's speedshop. I forgot to mention that. I have lucas 38# injectors with a pro-m 80 calibrated for 38's. Just bought 42's and a new meter. See if thats the problem.

Graddy- I know you are a tunning guru and an excellent one at that, im not trying to mix methods just trying to get it driveable so I can get it to the tuner to get a chip burned, sorry I didnt make that clear.
Thanks guys much appreciated.

Glad to see you are in the loop :nice:

It is so sad to say over the years :(
many have lost a hg when trying to work out details of a new forced combo :bang:

Just didn't want to see you go down that same path :)

Grady