Idle drops and dies when stopping
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Up date. I put another Vss switch in and I cleaned the sensor on the passenger fender don't what it's called has something to do with EGR it was full of dust dirt. Re checked all my ground. Disconnected the battery again. Took a twenty minute ride seems to be better but not perfect. I have to recheck somethings. I ran out of time. Why doesn't it give codes if these sensors are bad?
The computer (primitive in these cars, compared to today's puters) doesn't always have a feedback loop. In other words, the puter doesnt know that the sensor is bad. Add to that, a miscalibrated sensor is often still within absolute specs (no code).
ninety15.0
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- Mar 10, 2004
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Its in the tune man...im telling you. This isnt a sensor problem...its software.
Your 347 has different requirements...and with all the changes made to the car...the computer needs to be up to date with everything. Obviously who ever tuned the car isnt very good at it. This is a simple problem to fix. Refer to my above post...print it out and bring it to your tuner. This WILL fix your problem.
Your 347 has different requirements...and with all the changes made to the car...the computer needs to be up to date with everything. Obviously who ever tuned the car isnt very good at it. This is a simple problem to fix. Refer to my above post...print it out and bring it to your tuner. This WILL fix your problem.
I'll be visting him next week. I seem to be having a hard time finding a good tuner in my area. This is my second one
I had my chip settings changed to hold the idle up and doesn't help. So I pull the chip out and starting over going through my check list again. I found a lose ground on my motor to the battery. I replace my VSS again. I broke it checking it my fault. My idle is 900 to 1000 and does not drop until I drive it for 10 minutes or so. Then It drops 500 and wants to die only with the clutch in when slowing down or stopping
The Ignition Module on the column could it be the problem I have repaced the Key lock but not the module. Just an Idea!
Thanks again Jeff
The Ignition Module on the column could it be the problem I have repaced the Key lock but not the module. Just an Idea!
Thanks again Jeff
Did you suceed in setting the base mechanical idle using the "Surging Idle Checklist proceedure? You should be able to get a steady 600 RPM idle on an engine with a mild cam and no mechanical problems.
fox racer
Member
What the hell is an ISC Dashpot? A TSP? And where is the VSS located? lol Sorry for all the questions.
Checklist procedure
I have got it ti idle at 900 to 1000 it runs best there. It runs good Idles great after driving for 10 or 20 minutes it drops when coming to a stop with clutch in. I got home I sat in the drive way pushing the clutch in and out as the idle went from 500 to 900 RPM. So I turn the car off and restart it stops doing it no problems idles fine. I have gone threw the idle check list. I have replaced my key switch but not the ignition module. I am puzzled
I have got it ti idle at 900 to 1000 it runs best there. It runs good Idles great after driving for 10 or 20 minutes it drops when coming to a stop with clutch in. I got home I sat in the drive way pushing the clutch in and out as the idle went from 500 to 900 RPM. So I turn the car off and restart it stops doing it no problems idles fine. I have gone threw the idle check list. I have replaced my key switch but not the ignition module. I am puzzled
If it won't idle at 600 RPM with a stock or mild camshaft, you have other problems. Vacuum leaks are high on the list of suspect causes.
My cam is not mild but is not rat eirther it's a comp XE282HR I have checked for vacuum leaks I wish it was that it would be easy to fix
Maybe I am not clear on what it happening here. My Idle drops to 500 with the clutch petal in and when I let it out it goes back up to 900.
900 is what my base Idle is set at
I don't see how this would be a Vacuum leak
the ISC dash pot is a control in the Chip for drive ability
TSP is chemical for cleaning walls and stuff, TPS is Throttle position switch
VSS is Vehicle Speed sensor located on the speedo cable into the Transmission
I believe this correct
If you have a vacuum leak, you will not be able to get the idle speed to stabilize at 600 RPM. The extra air from the vacuum leak will prevent you from getting the idle down that far.
Not with my set up too low. How would pushing the clutch petal in make a vacuum leak?
The vacuum leak was there all the time. Pushing the pedal places a load on the engine that causes the computer to try and raise the idle. When the computer cannot control the idle speed because it expects to see 650-725 RPM, it does the surge and die routine.
While you are at it make sure that you don't get a code 67 when you dump the codes. Joel50 has proven that this may cause idle problems too.
The idle drops when pushing the clutch petal down
Why does it not do it all the time?
Why does it stop when I turn the key off and re start the car?
My intake has been milled to fit with new intake gaskets just recently
I have sprayed all around the intake and does not raise idle it stays steady
Vacuum is steady 12 to 14 I pretty sure almost 100% there is no vacuum leaks
It started doing this after I had my Trans fix
I appreciate your in put I going to check again tomorrow thanks Jeff
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