Blown a plug :shock:

Coreyned

New Member
Jun 7, 2007
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:SNSign: well i blown a plug and stripped the threads. what exactly is that part called? and how hard would it be for me to fix it? I got my car towed to the Ford dealership the the dummies trying to get me to pay $1900. $1100 for PARTS & LABOR then 900 for the part that i need which is stripped, which dont make any sense. I have a 01 bullitt mustang and trying to go a cheaper waythen that, so I need to know what it is called and where I can get a cheaper one? and if there is instructions to replacing this part.
 
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you stripped the threads to the spark plug hole????? is that what you are saying????? what exactly are you talking about? what where you trying to do yourself?

you post does not have one complete sentence... i am no english major but i would think this post would get an F!

slow down and re-read what you are going to post before you actually post it...
 
Yeah like others said, you'll need a new cylinder head. You can find used ones on ebay for cheaper than what a ford dealer will charge ya, but then again you might have the same problem in a used head. You can fix the threads with at time-sert, but that isn't the best fix and might blow out again.
 
now it makes some sense. you guys are good at understanding stuff. or you have just seen alot of different things happen. i have never heard of the plug actually blowing out. is that really what it did? if so, your head is toast. you could do the work yourself... its really not that hard especially if you only have stock headers. long tubes suck to do any work to anything. where do you live? ill do it for you. these cars are cake to tear down and reessemble. it just sucks when you heavily modify them because the weakest link always seems to break... good luck though
 
Heli coils don't always work in these heads. People on here have tried and failed.

The Cadillac Northstar motor has the same problem with head bolts pulling threads out of the block. Shops do a head job then the same day, or a week or so later the car comes back with even more problems. They end up calling me and ordering an entire used replacement motor.
 
I'll say it once again:

Torque your plugs to 13lbs and use very minimal anti-seize on the threads!!!

I'll add my 2 cents. Don't use any anti-seize. Just use copper plugs for a buck and change each and change them once a year very carefully on a stone cold engine. Torque them to 13 lb/ft. If you're nervous, retorque after a thousand.

I never understood the concept of lubing something that has an issue of coming out on it's own.:shrug:
 
The antiseeze is there to prevent the plugs from getting seized in the motor. When they are taken out after being in there a long time, the plug is seized to the threads in the head and when they are coming out, the threads are weakened. Then you put the plug back in, and a few miles later they back out, or blow out. People literally say to use a dab of antiseize. So..don't use the brush they supply you with, use a tooth brush and just barely put any on there. That way, next time you pull them out, they won't be seized in there.

I am on the fence with antiseize because I haven't changed them in a 2V motor. I had thetuner change plugs on my 96 Cobra when it got supercharged. I didn't have any problems. I recently called them so ask if they have had any problems with them blowing out, and he said they have never had one blow out of a Mustang. (They have been in business since 1990 and supercharge and build Mustangs everyday.) But they have heard of it in trucks. They don't use torque wrenches either, they just change them like any other plug. I am still on the fence....maybe I should just have them do it when I get it dynoed and tuned...then they will be responsible.
 
I'll add my 2 cents. Don't use any anti-seize. Just use copper plugs for a buck and change each and change them once a year very carefully on a stone cold engine. Torque them to 13 lb/ft. If you're nervous, retorque after a thousand.

I never understood the concept of lubing something that has an issue of coming out on it's own.:shrug:

How often do plugs come out on their own for you? I've never seen a spark plug back out of a hole with a boot firmly attached to it. In steel heads it's not a big deal but with aluminum heads I've seen way too many plugs lock up inside an aluminum head. Anti-seize is cheap insurance.

As for the plugs all I ever did was hand tighten them then use a socket wrench and given them a slight turn. No reason to crank down on them they aren't going anywhere.

Bill
 
do you have alink for some cheap ported heads? i would plan on doing this in the future and i would rather have a long term fix. how much money am i lookin at for a pair of heads?


- i live in Palm Beach County , Florida


well, I did all heads and all the supporting mods below when I blew a plug. The heads were 1300 or so and I probably spent another 2500 or so after that....doing all the install myself.

If you go that route it will be a nice kick in the pants for you ride:nice:
 
How often do plugs come out on their own for you? I've never seen a spark plug back out of a hole with a boot firmly attached to it. In steel heads it's not a big deal but with aluminum heads I've seen way too many plugs lock up inside an aluminum head. Anti-seize is cheap insurance.

As for the plugs all I ever did was hand tighten them then use a socket wrench and given them a slight turn. No reason to crank down on them they aren't going anywhere.

Bill

I've never had a plug come out on me. Plugs are specifically made not to seize but the problem is, there not recommended for change for a decade and over so many years the plugs and threads become one. Copper plugs give better performance than the platinums they just don't last as long. Change them every year and the problem goes away and you get better performance.

I used to change them the same way until I heard about this issue. Now I'm careful to torque each one but I wouldn't lube it ever. I want it to stay right where I left it.

No antiseize compound insures that.