Adjustable Upper Control Arm Install

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i have thought about it. i have a hard drive camcorder, but have no editing software or experience editing. would be tons easier than pics, thats for sure :D
 
Once again, a very nice write up cat! I have a question about the rear suspension. After lowering a car more than 1" would you have to use adjustable UCAs or could you just use control arm relocation brackets or both?


I've used Mindows Movie Maker several times to edit video and have decent success.
 
Once again, a very nice write up cat! I have a question about the rear suspension. After lowering a car more than 1" would you have to use adjustable UCAs or could you just use control arm relocation brackets or both?


I've used Mindows Movie Maker several times to edit video and have decent success.

might have to try it for the next part i install. ill have to look into how much space i can devote to the video here on stangnet. i can do 7 hours of DVD quality video on the camera. not too sure MRaburn would like to host that though. :D

any suggestions for how to do it? a straight thru video showing everything, or edit it to step by step, similar to the write ups? :shrug: editing the steps would be a shorter video, but some people may want to see it installed in its entirety. may start a poll when i am ready to do one. :)

kool, the adj. UCA would be a must for pinion angle. (unless you have adj. LCAs, but there is much more to adjust and measure to do it that way. you have to measure twice to be sure the rear is square to the car, where the UCA keeps it square.)

the LCA relocation brackets will help with your geometry. especially good for racing, street applications can do without, IMO. drag racers will like them because it changes the instant center of the car, which affects weight transfer. that will give you better launches at the strip.
 
I think a step by step video showing where things(parts, nuts, bolts, clips, etc)are and the placement of the tools and a bit of the removal/install process would be helpful. That way you could have them broken up into 5-10 minutes clips.

I guess the relocation brackets would be a waste in my case as it is my daily driver(for now and into the near future). Adjustable UCAs and upgraded LCAs is all I'll go with when I get the Spydershaft so that my pinion angle can be checked and adjusted all at the same time. Thanks cat:nice:
 
Great writeup as usual Bigcat! I do have one question regarding setting the pinion angle. You said to take measurements at 2 locations: driveshaft (assuming stock) and pinion flange, then find the difference. Once you have the difference, where do you apply this difference? At the pinion flange?
 
Looking at installing the J & M adjustable UCA. How are you able to torque the bolt that attaches the UCA to the UCA bracket if you have to load the suspension before torquing everything? There's no way you can get a socket/torque wrench in that confined space. Being stupid here.
 
sorry for the late reply. i didnt have much of a problem torquing the bolts when loaded. i did it on the lift though. i just dropped the lift down, while i had stands to hold the axle up.
 
help with upper control arm install

BigCat,
How did you get those washers between the bushings and the mount with the J&M upper control arm. I tried for 3 hours tonight. You use a spreader or maybe drop the tank and pull out the mount? Please help.

flastang ,
I am thinking i will have the same problem torquing the nut down when the suspension is loaded. any advice as to how you finally got it done?
 
The J&M UCA can be a bear to get into the mount (UCA forward location). I took the mount out completely and installed the UCA on the bench and vice.

Also, the J&M UCA forward bolt doesn't need to be torqued with weight on the wheels. It has a clamp up bushing that floats in the urethane. The rear bolt going through the stock rubber mount should be torqued weight on because the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer steel shell. Tightening this bolt weight off would cause a rotational preload on the rubber leading to a disbond.
 
I have read and taking pinion angles differently than what you posted.
You indicate : Use your magnetic angle finder and attach it to the FRONT drive shaft. Record the front drive shaft angle.

Now what I have read and done are taking from the rear piece of the 2 piece shaft.
Use your magnetic angle finder and attach it to the FRONT drive shaft. Record the front drive shaft angle.

http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA _adj.htm

Enlighten me please.