@%@^&$!! Wheel hop??

  • Sponsors (?)


Remember the car has a three link rear suspension design with a panhard bar for centering. That allows for side to side swaying during bumps and loss of traction. If you were trying to slide your axle could have been doing some serious swaying.

I got a watts link and it fixed all that. I can drift the GT like my old 240SX now without crazy rear end movement and sloppiness.
 
Although the Factory tire may be crap compared to the Nitto555's, actually it is somewhat better in the wet. The Factory tire is an MS tire as the Nitto555 is an ultra highperformance summer tire. It probably doesn't quite get the wet traction the Factory tire does so therefore you don't get the wheelhop.

Yes I would still prefer the Nitto555 over the factory tires because of the superior dry traction levels.

I agree completely. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't understand why wheel hop happens .. :nice::nice:
 
yeah i'm suffering from wheel hop too. i ordered the LCAS from cjpony parts, said they were shipping em 2 days ago, so we shall see when they get here when i launch it.

i'm also thinking of going as far as the anti roll bar. i loved the fact with my old stang i could just give it some revs, dump the clutch and take off in a cloud of smoke.

cool thx for all the imput i just bought an air raid last night lol but lca and uca are my next upgrade for sure autumn_again if you don't mind what did you pay for yours??
 
Lower control arms

It's just the nature of the beast. I think everyone has had this condition at one time or another. Changing the upper and lower rear control arms to units that are more rigid and with stiffer bushings will make this go away. Everything is soft in the rear suspension so you don't feel the road, and you will feel it a little bit more (not much difference at all) with aftermarket componants, but the improvment in hard launches and overall drivability is well worth it.

I drive a 06, 5m GT and had bad wheel hop. I put on lowers only and it had absolutely no effect other than increase my suspension noise level to that of a 65 Dodge Polara Wagon. Still hops like a mofo, and now is louder than a mofo too. Think twice before you thro away your factory lowers. Also, if anyone out there wants to get rid of their replaced factory lowers, let me know, I'm looking to put factories back on. [email protected]
 
I drive a 06, 5m GT and had bad wheel hop. I put on lowers only and it had absolutely no effect other than increase my suspension noise level to that of a 65 Dodge Polara Wagon. Still hops like a mofo, and now is louder than a mofo too. Think twice before you thro away your factory lowers. Also, if anyone out there wants to get rid of their replaced factory lowers, let me know, I'm looking to put factories back on. [email protected]
Yes, this definitely does not sound right at all. What brand? What other suspension work do you have? Did you buy ones with poly bushings, or rod ends? Did you grease the bushings? If you installed them correctly, pretty much any aftermarket LCA should noticeably reduce wheel hop, with little to no added noise.
 
i hate the hop. will an anti-roll bar help cure this?

if i give it too much gas at a hard take off it'll just sit there and spin and not hop. too little gas it bogs down.

i used to be able to give it gas get a little tire squeel but have a nice solid take off in my 94.
 
I drive a 06, 5m GT and had bad wheel hop. I put on lowers only and it had absolutely no effect other than increase my suspension noise level to that of a 65 Dodge Polara Wagon. Still hops like a mofo, and now is louder than a mofo too. Think twice before you thro away your factory lowers. Also, if anyone out there wants to get rid of their replaced factory lowers, let me know, I'm looking to put factories back on. [email protected]

Try LCA relocation brackets instead. Having the control arms angled slightly down from front to rear should eliminate hop. I have stock control arms, lowering springs and adjustable panhard and have never experienced hop with my auto GT (415 rwhp). The bushings are designed to be soft on our three link rear as they need to flex when going around corners. Going to harder bushings will impact the handling...so wil the LCA relocation brackets but less so IMHO.
 
I had the exact same thing happen this morning in the rain. I can tell you this, I've got the BMR lowers with relocation brackets and while it may have helped it has not completely removed the wheel hop. I'm hoping once I do install the upper that will help aid this as well. The shuddering that happens with wheel hop is pretty bad if you don't lay off early enough.
 
I would not go without them, because of the wheelhop, most tracks it's worse than the street because of the grip juice put on the track.

I broke some parts in the past from violant wheelhop, not sayng that the newer Mustangs aren't strong enough, I just wouldn't chance it.

I got the following at a resonable price:
1. J&M Products Mustang 2005+ Street Lower Control Arms
2. J&M Products Dbl Adjustable Mustang 2005+ Upper Control Arm

These were around $250 from a place here in FL, you may get them all for less looking around.

I might go to the track before, I would just launch without dropping the clutch, sort of a little slip and punch take-off, that way the tires probably won't bust loose and start wheel hopping.

After reading over your post, I am definitely interested in the J&M Street Lower Control Arms. But don't know where to get them at a reasonable price, nor am I able to locate a website. :shrug:
 
J&M's Website it hotpart.com.

Places like AmericanMusscle and LethalPerformace also sell their parts. I'm sure there are other places, those just come to mind right off the bat.


Thanks for the great heads up. As you definitely can't go wrong with both J&M's prices, and I especially like how they provide a lifetime warranty on all they're bushings. Heck, not even Steeda offers a warranty on they're Chrome Moly Steel LCA's :nice: