Lower intake is leaking!!

fish254

Founding Member
Sep 20, 2002
237
0
16
Brooklyn NY
I have notice that the lower intake is leaking from the rear. Now my question is I removed the lower intake and noticed that on the engine block the rear section passanger side were the lower intake sits on there is whole what is that for?? Also what gasket to get and should i use ARP new bolts??? :shrug:
 
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if it's a threaded hole then it was for a knock sensor (that didn't come on our cars)

If you're talking about the one with the plug in it then I couldn't tell you...I'd imagine it's just a regular old freeze plug :shrug:

maybe someone else on here knows?
 
I'm not sure what hole you're referring to, but the gasket set you want to use is Fel Pro MS93334, should run you less than $15 at autozone/advance/etc. If your old bolts look fine I think you can reuse them, I went ahead and replaced them since I was at lowes already getting some other things. 5/16" - 18 x 2", right?

To preempt the coming debate, I used the rubber end pieces, with a dab of RTV at each corner in my recent intake swap (first timer) with no leaks.
 
you are leaking oil i assume
is it about 3/4" - 1" in diameter hole behind the lower intake ?

n if you look down n theres oil in it, its your pcv hole.
Get a hose and and pcv with the grommet and pop it in there n connect it to the upper.
You need to vent the crankcase.
 
If you are talking about a very small hole on the block (less than a 1/4" in diameter), it is an alignment hole for the gasket. The factory rubber gaskets that go between the intake and the block have little rubber studs that go into the little hole to keep them in place. As far as the ARP intake bolts go, that's entirely up to you. They look a little better, but the stock ones are a better fit. For example, one of the stock bolts has a studded top for the heater rail to screw down onto. The ARP ones are't going to have that. The intake bolts aren't under any real stress, so putting ARP intake bolts on isn't going to make your engine stronger or better by any means.

Kurt
 
I used a thick bead of black RTV on the front and back of mine. First try I had a coolant leak. Re-did it again on a warmer day, and have had no problems since. I have heard many say not to use the cork gaskets on the ends, but then I know a few people that have had no problems with them. I think it is all personal preference.
 
I agree with this, I have used both cork and rubber end pieces, the rubber ones are killer, the cork ones split under even light torque loads (18-20lbs) Although some guys use the cork and dont have issues, I say run the rubber.

[/QUOTE]To preempt the coming debate, I used the rubber end pieces, with a dab of RTV at each corner in my recent intake swap (first timer) with no leaks.[/QUOTE]

As far as the bolts go, ARP is great but you dont have to spend that much if you dont want to, if your bolts show any sign of corrosion change them. My intake first leaked water at 120K because of a failed bolt that was corroded. Make sure you put a bit of anti seize on the bolts before they go in.
 
also i will be running a 3/8 spacer on the upper should i use rtv for the intake in between gasket and spacer??

No, don't need anything there. You shouldn't use RTV on the intake gaskets to hold them on the heads. Permatex sells this stuff called "Form a Gasket." It comes in a little white container with a metal screw on cap. The cap has a brush attached to the bottom of it. You brush this goo on the heads, and helps tach the gasket. RTV is too thick. If you use RTV, when you torque the intake down it will get pushed out into the intake ports, and generally make a mess around the sides of the intake too.

Kurt
 
btw i know this is a little of topic but when installing the heads...should i put loc-tite or antiseize on the bolts? (arp bolts)
and is it the same with the intake bolts?

You actually have to get this stuff called thread sealer. It's kind of like a white teflon material. It usually comes in a tube similiar in size and shape to loctite. Using Loc-tite can cause friction which will lead to inaccurate torque readings.

Kurt
 
They also make a product called "High Tack" that comes in a brush or spray can. It's made just for this, to put a sticky surface on the gaskets and hold them in place during assembly.

Scott

Yeah, and actually holds the gaskets in place better, but for intake gaskets I prefer the "Form a Gasket" because it doubles as a sealer.

Kurt
 
Yeah, and actually holds the gaskets in place better, but for intake gaskets I prefer the "Form a Gasket" because it doubles as a sealer.

Kurt

Fair enough. I use the RTV at the corners and along the end walls myself.

To answer the other question, I would reccomend using it just to tack the gasket in place because it leaves a residue that''s a chore to clean up if you ever have to remove the old gasket in the future. I've used it both ways on different applications, and it works well as long as the surfaces are clean and dry before you put it on.

Scott