help can't get traction

  • Sponsors (?)


Do the driver mod (AKA practice). Most street tires don't make for good traction, and those that do, don't make for practical usage. On anything less than a drag radial and if you have a manual trans, you never want to dump the clutch and pray for the best. You need to ride it out on the edge of breaking traction.
 
I have those on my GTO they are pretty good tire but depends on the power level. I have steeda springs and upper and lower control arm will help alot. But the m/t drag radials E/T that I have hook really well on one of my stangs spin its only 235 tire with 388rwhp. Then i have 275 555 nittos NOT the drag radials that like crazy. Both mustangs have 3.73s. Practice is the best way to improve.
 
What is the condition of the bushings in the control arms and what kind of shape are the torque boxes in? I would check to make sure that you don't have any bushings that are torn up and that the torque boxes are in good shape. The drivers side box in my 88 shot and I have a difficult time getting traction sometimes. If everything is in good shape the I would start with suspension work and tires.

I run a set of MM adjustable LCAs and MT drag radials on my 93. Works pretty good.
 
You should still be able to find traction with bone stock suspension at your current mod level. If you're looking to do a budget suspension, some 4 cylinder springs and pretty much any quality aftermarket lower control arms should be good.

is there any way to know you are buying 4cycl springs instead of v8's?:shrug: i think im going to do the 4cyc and LC-arm, and subframes for my suspension upgrade
 
they're not scary to drive. My friend did it for years. It's not unsafe either. It just sucks. you lose all your handling capabilities for staight line performance.

You need to check the obvious. Your trak lok.

I recently went to the track expecting solid 13's on my explorer combo.

I went with mt et streets, 26x10.5x 15.

best time I could muster was a 2.5 60' lol

spun all the way through first on the et streets.

Jack up just one side of the rear. leave one wheel on the ground, one in the air.

grab a torque wrench and put it on the rear lug. It should hold something like 25-28 pounds or so before the rear wheel begins to spin. If it doesn't, your trak lok is busted.

I tried this, and my trak lok is so bad that I can free spin the wheel with my hand.

Hence my traction problem.

As well, in my experience control arms do NOTHING for traction. Traction is a difficult problem with our cars. Good tires, a good trak lok and weight transfer are the best ways to get traction.
 
As well, in my experience control arms do NOTHING for traction. Traction is a difficult problem with our cars. Good tires, a good trak lok and weight transfer are the best ways to get traction.


Not necessarily. I've been in the market for new arms and have been doing a lot of research lately and you can actually "ruin" traction with control arms that have poly bushings. The major player is the upper arms. MM actually recommends to keep the stock uppers with the rubber bushings to absorb some of the twist of the rear axle when you hit the power hard. With stiff bushings, there is no cushion and you tend to break the tires loose.
 
That is a good point. I wasn't thinking of it from that direction.

I actually went that route...kept stock type control arms for my uppers (cobra arms) then went with pro3i units for my lower..mm type arms with a spherical/poly combo.

On the streets I'll spin halfway through second still.

I didn't post my times, but I got a 9.6 in the eigth (equal to about a 15.0 in the 1/4), lol because of traction. I have a 13 second car too.

It's just crazy what an utter lack of traction will do to an otherwise quick car :(