New Engine: Initial startup tips anyone?

[Nicoleb3x3]

I just rebuilt my 5.0 and I'll be turning the key in a few days, but I'm kind of new to somethings like distributor install and timing and I don't know how this will work out on a engine that hasn't run yet.

Once I install the distributor, how do I know the initial spark is close enough to start it? I assume I can't really set initial timing with a timing light until after I have it running and burp the coolant/air and make sure I don't have fuel leaks and stuff like that.....so my question...If I drop in the distributor how do I know I'm close enough to idle for initial start up?

Running a rebuilt engine for the first time I assume I'll need to follow these items of concern in order after I turn the key (correct my priorities if I don't have this right):

1. Do I idle, or do I need to hold up to a certain RPM to help set the rings initially? If yes, what RPM and how long?

2. Burp the coolant of air as the engine warms up

3. Look for puddles or smell of leaking fluids such as gas or coolant

4. After all these steps I assume I could then set initial timing when the engine is warm, not leaking, and idling- right?

5. After all the above steps, test drive the car but do not exceed 3000 rpm for the first 500 miles



Comments anyone? need a seasoned advice for initial start up on a fresh engine.

 

[strtrcr50]

An interesting read.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[fords2fast4u]

I think getting a steady idle may be somewhat difficult at first - or at least it has been for me - as the computer tries to compensate for things.

But if you put in the dizz with the cap off, but the rotor on, with the engine at TDC, the rotor should be pointing roughly towards the intake runners - maybe a little to the passenger side of the first intake runner. The balancer should also have the numbers close to the marker, and starting at 10 degrees advance with the spout connector out is a good start (using the timing light and welder's chalk, which you do not need the car to be 'running' to check).

if your timing is way off, your headers can glow sometimes b/c they get so hot, which can discolor some chromed ones - but I've seen that several times - I've even heard of guys breaking an engine in with other headers and changing them out after 1k miles, but that's for show cars.

Your list looks pretty good - good luck!

 

[BlownFiveLiter]

1. Do I idle, or do I need to hold up to a certain RPM to help set the rings initially? If yes, what RPM and how long?

Not necessary. Holding a certain RPM is for flat tappet cams, so you can wear the lobes in properly. Hydraulic roller cams don't have that requirement, so you should be good to go.

2. Burp the coolant of air as the engine warms up

3. Look for puddles or smell of leaking fluids such as gas or coolant

4. After all these steps I assume I could then set initial timing when the engine is warm, not leaking, and idling- right?

5. After all the above steps, test drive the car but do not exceed 3000 rpm for the first 500 miles



Comments anyone? need a seasoned advice for initial start up on a fresh engine.

I'd probably reorder the list a little bit, but you pretty much have it down. Just remember before initial startup that you'll need to prime the oil pump. My personal order would go:

1. Prime oil pump

2. Check for any visible oil leaks

3. Turn the ignition on and prime the fuel pump a few times. Check for fuel leaks

4. Raise front end, remove spout plug, loosen distributor hold down, remove radiator cap

5. Start car and set initial timing at 10-14ish° (may require helper for initial start)

6. Allow to come up to operating temperature and burp cooling system

At that point you should be pretty good, but because of the fresh rebuild, I'd probably change the oil and filter after coming up to operating temperature for the first time and again in 500 miles. The very first startup is going to be what really loosens up any foreign objects in the engine.

 

[Krakah94GTVert]

that is quite an interesting link, anyone else every try that method?

 

[tiptopss]

as soon as she fires up, Hold er tight.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

I did already prime the engine once with the valve cover off to be sure the pump works, I plan to do it again just before I drop in the distributor.

I read somewhere they say hold above 2000 rpm for help with keeping oil reaching the cam, meaning oiling isn't so great sometimes below 2000 rpm?

I think I'm most worried about the whole timing before start up...I've never done it before so I'd hate to be learning as my engine is detonating.

So; you can use a timing light with the engine not running? How the hell do you do that?

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

good article by the way...has me thinking

makes me more worried about getting my timing straight so I can take it for a ride soon enough to set the rings.

 

[strtrcr50]

I think I'm most worried about the whole timing before start up...I've never done it before so I'd hate to be learning as my engine is detonating.

So; you can use a timing light with the engine not running? How the hell do you do that?

You don't have to be spot on to get it to start. If the rotor is pointed at cylinder 1, it should start assuming you don't have the dist 180 out. Hook up your timing light, start the car with the spout out, and set the timing. After it warms up, set the timing again.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

one thing to keep in mind is make sure you have the drill going the correct way when priming the oiling system! peace









john

 

[nisreo]

Put cyl 1 on TDC, the pull the cap off your distributor and make sure your rotor is pointing to where the #1 cylinder plug wire would be. This will get you in the ball park for initial startup.

 

[Nicoleb3x3]

ok thanks everyone

(and yes counterclockwise when priming the pump )

 

[jrichker]

Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole,
crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer
on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor
to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block,
(you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards
or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor,
but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't
align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too
far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car
runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back
in when you finish.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8