my clutch and TOB are bad. have questions

johnnyt03gt

5 Year Member
Mar 15, 2008
453
5
29
dallas TX
car has 110k miles with the factory clutch. slipping has gotten worse.

called dallas mustang. said labor would cost $250 is that a good price?
also what clutch would y'all recommend. as far as brand car is mostly stock. looking for an easy peddle and long life, i use the car evey day lots of STOP & GO driving. thanks,
 
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That's a good labor price. If you don't already have one, you should buy a clutch quadrant, firewall adjuster, and cable so they can replace them when they install the clutch.
 
Depends whos clutch kit you buy it will come with a TOB and pilot bearing, otherwise the standard pilot bearing from a local autopart store will be fine. I have not had issues with the SPEC supplied TOB although the Ford pieces are nice.

Sharad is right a good quadrant and firewall adjuster is a excellent choice.
 
I picked up a King Cobra clutch from CJPony Parts. Good price. It's been in the car for only a few weeks though so I don't know the reliability. Less pedal effort than the SPEC Stage 1 I had. The Spec had about 100,000 miles on it when a pressure plate spring let go.
 
250 is a good quote I would assume for non long tubes (or certain long tubes I should clarify). I need a new clutch soon as well and it will be either a stage 1 SPEC or RAM. Both are what was recommended to me so if you go aftermarket that's the way to go. As I was told, Stock<King Cobra<Stage 1 clutch. You just have to decide what level you want your car to be in the near future if you plan to upgrade anything. The stage 1's are good up to 450 tq btw
 
Auto Zone sells a clutch kit that is made by Valeo for about $180. Go to the store and look at the kit yourself and see what manufacturer made it. Always use the Ford Racing throwout bearing and replace your rear main seal and pilot bearing, etc., when you do the job.
 
I'd just go with an OE replacement clutch and TOB for a near-stock car. Driven properly these parts should last the life of the car, will give smooth operation and a light pedal.


Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner. :D

I'm with you. Based on his mods and length of service from the stock clucth why do something else?

King Cobra is 10 1/2". The '03 has an 11" clutch.

The Valeo is a good choice.

Stay with the Ford TOB and pilot bearing.

Have the flywheel resurfaced.

Replace the ball stud and closely inpect/replace the clucth fork while you're in there.
 
Ding, ding, ding! We have a winner. :D

I'm with you. Based on his mods and length of service from the stock clucth why do something else?

King Cobra is 10 1/2". The '03 has an 11" clutch.

The Valeo is a good choice.

Stay with the Ford TOB and pilot bearing.

Have the flywheel resurfaced.

Replace the ball stud and closely inpect/replace the clucth fork while you're in there.

A number of years ago I had the clutch replaced in my GT because the TOB had gotten noisy. The clutch itself was fine but I took the "Hey, you're that far into it anyway..." approach. It was a simple Luk OE replacement; no "stage" this or dual-friction that...

That clutch is still in the car now, behind the KB and 430 crank HP and it's holding up just fine.

Clutches are one of those things where people definitely get sucked in by marketing hype...

Good advice BTW :nice:
 
These clutches will definitely take more than what most people think.

I know of a guy with an S197 that was running low 11's with the stock clucth. He was leaving with 6k rpm dumps on slicks. He finally chnaged clutches when he swapped in a Coyote motor but the stocker still had some life.
 
I have a valeo clutch in mine which is push 310 or so at the crank and it is holding great. 250 is a great price for labor. The valeo clutch kit comes with the pilot and throw out bearings. They are good quality pieces and will last as long as you don't beat on it everyday.