Autometer Gauge Location

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http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f/featuredvehicles/m5lp_1110_1989_663hp_ford_mustang_fox_gt_socially_acceptable/37718286%20w200/m5lp-1110-1989-663hp-ford-mustang-fox-gt-socially-acceptable-003.jpg[IMG] I had the set you see up top with the tach in it. Actually still have the gauge pod and all the gauges if you're still shopping around.

As for the radio relocate style, I've had those too and I had no problems with the install or location. Other than the possibility of occasionally punching the hell out of them when shifting. Can't go wrong either way
 
My bad
m5lp-1110-1989-663hp-ford-mustang-fox-gt-socially-acceptable-003.jpg
 
I looked at ones those and wish they had them for three gauges.

I am going to install water temp, oil pressure and voltage plus the tach. The mech fuel pressure gauge will be mounted on the cowl as per the rules.

Right now I am in strip down mode. After I get the thing smog passed I will take off all of the smog equipment, go to manual steering and brakes and a electric water pump.
 
are you running two or three gauges in your cage? I would love to able to out them in the air vents but the rules do not allow it, I wish there was a factory car that was made without that air vent or at least a cover over it.

Two as of right now. I wanted to keep the little vents of the side.
 
I have a gauge cage but left out the small vents on the side. If its something you really have to keep an eye on would just run a pod on the pillar. Glancing at your vents may be chancy on a track.
 
DavidEwers, did you install your gauges? Did you run into any problems/snags that are common? I ordered a few from Jegs and am having a difficult time finding where I should be tapping my wires into (fusebox?) to get power to the gauges...and yes theyre mechanical. I hate to ask such a novice question but I've had little experience with installing gauges. Any advice you or others can offer would be greatly appreciated.
 
I went another route, I used the autometer panel that went into the vents. All of mine are mechanical too, I made a custom wiring panel similar to the painless wiring panel for the stang. The reason I did not use the painless wiring panel is it did not have separate fused switches. I ran one wire from the positive and negative from the battery to the panel.
 
Here's some installation help...

Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation..
1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light blue/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light blue/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light blue/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection » How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

Be sure to use a gauge restrictor fitting in the pressure line going to the gauge. The restrictor will prevent all of the engine's oil supply from ending up on the pavement before you can stop it if the gauge line fails. I had a gauge line rupture, and the restrictor fitting saved my engine from serious damage.

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