Clutch Cable Issues

[CrossShot4]

Hi guys im having some issues with my 89 Mustang that i cant figure out. Here's some background information of the situation. Last summer the clutch cable went out in my car and my dad and I replaced it. It lasted about a day before it started acting up again and eventually left me stranded on the side of the road lol. It was some piece of junk from O'reilly's but I didn't really know any better. This time after doing my research, I went and bought the Maximum Motor Sports kit with the cable, quadrant, and firewall adjuster. After hours of messing with it (the Pawl was awful) we got it all hooked up but it's still not shifting right. At first it was just hard to get into gear and grinding but after getting the car to shift smoothy now it doesn't want to move at all. I can turn the car on put it in gear and take my foot off the clutch and it will stay running. I'm guessing the clutch isn't disengaging. I'm really lost here. I'm not a mechanic by any means and i just don't have the knowledge needed. My dad saw that i bent something while trying to pry the pawl off and it might not be allowing the quadrant to move properly but i'm not really sure. Also from the sounds of it, im going to need a new throw out bearing down the road.

 

[jrichker]

All the old parts from the stock quadrant need to be removed, including the quadrant pawl. It is hard to get off, but it can be done..

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

Adjustable clutch cable or firewall cable adjuster tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.

Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90

The Ford Racing Adjustable cable is available as a separate part:
Clutch Cable, Adjustable, Ford, Mercury, 5.0L, Kit

[url=http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDA-555-7021/]Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt

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[CrossShot4]

I did change all the old parts though? I feel like this is a copy and paste general response and not a response to my actual problem. I still don't understand how the car can be in gear but still stay running with my foot off the clutch. Maybe because it needs to be tightened so it engages more off the floor?

 

[jrichker]

I did change all the old parts though? I feel like this is a copy and paste general response and not a response to my actual problem. I still don't understand how the car can be in gear but still stay running with my foot off the clutch. Maybe because it needs to be tightened so it engages more off the floor?

Being that I don't know the extent of you mechanical abilities, the state of the car, what you did right or what you did wrong, you got what you got.

Present the common answers first. Next eliminate the simple possibilities. Then go after the more difficult questions

At this point if it is in gear and the you foot is off the clutch pedal and it isn't moving, the clutch is too tight.- It is disengaged, just like you are standing on the clutch pedal.
How much slack do you have in the cable? There isn't supposed to be any.
Where is the clutch fork arm positioned in the hole for it in the bellhousing? All the way to the front, midway or all the way to the back?

Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

I did change all the old parts though? I feel like this is a copy and paste general response and not a response to my actual problem. I still don't understand how the car can be in gear but still stay running with my foot off the clutch. Maybe because it needs to be tightened so it engages more off the floor?

So your saying that with the engine running you can put the transmission successfully in 1st gear and let out the clutch and NOTHING HAPPENS? You go nowhere? No stalling?

With the vehicle jacked up and safely supported have one person get underneath and watch the clutch cable & clutch fork while another person pushes and releases the clutch multiple times. You want to see zero slack in the clutch cable and the fork moving back and forth. If this all seems fine and fork is moving in it's complete range of motion then you may have an internal problem and need to remove the trans to inspect. But like Jrichker said, you start with the small and inexpensive things BEFORE you get to labor intensive and expensive parts so If I were you I'd follow his clutch adjustment advice as a starting point. The clutch cable probably loosened up or has movement somewhere where there shouldn't be any. Look also at the firewall where the adjuster is and make sure it's not moving around and make sure the clutch cable is not too close to your headers as well.

Good luck.

 

[CrossShot4]

So your saying that with the engine running you can put the transmission successfully in 1st gear and let out the clutch and NOTHING HAPPENS? You go nowhere? No stalling?

With the vehicle jacked up and safely supported have one person get underneath and watch the clutch cable & clutch fork while another person pushes and releases the clutch multiple times. You want to see zero slack in the clutch cable and the fork moving back and forth. If this all seems fine and fork is moving in it's complete range of motion then you may have an internal problem and need to remove the trans to inspect. But like Jrichker said, you start with the small and inexpensive things BEFORE you get to labor intensive and expensive parts so If I were you I'd follow his clutch adjustment advice as a starting point. The clutch cable probably loosened up or has movement somewhere where there shouldn't be any. Look also at the firewall where the adjuster is and make sure it's not moving around and make sure the clutch cable is not too close to your headers as well.

Good luck.

Yes that is exactly what i am saying. Tomorrow is going to to be nice out so I'm going to try out everything you and Jrichker have said and I will report back to you.

EDIT: Actually, something I did notice when we first installed the cable was the adjuster moved around a lot. My dad even said he didn't like the way it was doing that. We tightened it to the firewall the tightest we could get it.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

The adjuster should have a screw that tightens it to the firewall. Can you take a few pictures and post them up for us? Just use the "upload file" button next to "post reply" to add pictures to your post. Good luck.

 

[jrichker]

Yes that is exactly what i am saying. Tomorrow is going to to be nice out so I'm going to try out everything you and Jrichker have said and I will report back to you.

EDIT: Actually, something I did notice when we first installed the cable was the adjuster moved around a lot. My dad even said he didn't like the way it was doing that. We tightened it to the firewall the tightest we could get it.

Notice the "ears" on the picture of the MM firewall adjuster? they are there to install a sheet metal screw(s) to hold the firewall adjuster in place.

 

[CrossShot4]

I tried adjusting the cable at both ends. There is no slack in the cable either. But i only have one screw holding the firewall adjuster on because it said the other hole was for the SN95. I'll try to get a photo up as soon as i can find something to take a decent quality picture.

 

[CrossShot4]

Well, sorry it took me so long to post an update i've been busy with work and stuff. But My dad and I ended up just pulling the motor and transmission because there were multiple things that needed fixed anyway. And here's what we found after unbolting the transmission, a shredded clutch and a throw out bearing that we had to spin with force... Guess that answers my question lol. Just figured I'd let everyone know what the outcome was and maybe this could be used as a reference for someone else with an issue. Thanks to everyone who spent there time helping me.

 

[FoxMustangLvr]

@CrossShot4

Thanks for updating the thread with what the actual problem ended up being. Too many people don't do that and other people with a similar problem could still end up guessing. What are the plans for the engine while it's out?

 

[CrossShot4]

@CrossShot4

Thanks for updating the thread with what the actual problem ended up being. Too many people don't do that and other people with a similar problem could still end up guessing. What are the plans for the engine while it's out?

Mostly im just giving it a lot of TLC. I'll start by cleaning all the grease and oil off the motor. Then replace all the gaskets and some hoses.Next replace the water pump and headers because they are leaking and then give it a fresh tune up. Also, while the motors out im going to wire wheel the engine bay, and re-enforce the shock towers then re paint it. I'd also like to clean up the transmission before i buy a clutch kit and drop the motor back in. On a side note...I'm trying to decide if i want to change the front clip, I bought a complete 1985 front clip last summer with the intent to put it on the car but i'm scared of the wiring because i have no special car skills what so ever.