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Thanks - I can only guess the t/o bearing is the issue since you say the centerforce dual friction clutch needs a specific one. It is already in now and if it has to come back out I will seek out that special bearing. For the time being I have stopped the squeak by researching LOTS of posts and...

I am frustrated - I just had a new centerforce dual friction clutch installed with a new pressure plate, t.o.b. and resurfaced flywheel less than 2k miles ago on my 1993 5.0 in my 1970 mustang because the throwout bearing was squeeling. Now the throwout bearing started squeeling again in a few...

Thanks all! I think I will try to find that hub part only since it will be the cheapest route and I do not want to loose my freon charge. The rubber part seems to be spun and broken in the middle and that is all that appears to be bad. Strange how the a/c was working perfectly all day in 100...

My factory air stopped working today - when I looked under the hood and cycled the air conditioner on and off the clutch tried to engage but the rubber part has been split all around the middle section. I was able to spin the center shaft by hand with the engine off and it seems that the...

Thanks - Yes they have been on the car for 65k miles along with hi performance valve springs, keepers, roller lifters, e cam, etc... - they were tightened about a year after install because they started ticking and that shut it up but I did not do it. I am doing it this time - they have the...

I have a recent ticking under the valve covers and have pulled them off - all the rockers appear snug BUT I need to know what is the proper torque for these 1.7 factory ford COBRA roller rocker arms made by Crane Cams so I can shut the ticking up. - Any other suggestions as to what would cause...

California car purchased from original family and garage kept. VIN is 0F02Fxxxxxx - VERY clean - original floors, quarters, rails, aprons... no rust or accident problems. Fuel injected computerized 1993 5.0 Mustang GT engine with 1.7 roller rockers, freshend with new bearings, balancer, oil...

Car fixed - it was the throw out bearing - replaced the clutch assembly with a new Centerforce dual friction unit with their bearing and a new pilot bearing - now it is quiet and really feels great - it will chirp all gears.

I had similar problems in years past to some of my 5.0 FI stangs - several different cures were found: Fuel filter was bad on one. Fuel pump was bad on another. Hall effect unit inside the dizzy on another. Ignition control module bad on several others (most likely as I found this to be most...

That is what I was going to guess, but I was hoping for something else. It is really the worst when I am going about 25mph and press the clutch in to shift gears normally - either speeding up or slowing down it is the same - as long as the clutch is pressed in it gets pretty loud. I had almost...

93 5.0 almost stock - sounds like p/s pump but I don't think it is - that does make some noise at times too though. Happens all the time - even when not moving or not turning the steering wheel. At idle it is not bad - when revved it gets louder even while sitting still. When the clutch is...

ball joints seemed normal - no play, tie rods - no play, etc... I did not see anything that was out of the ordinary - jacked up the front with both wheels off the ground and pushed, pulled, turned them, turned the steering wheel lock to lock, etc... I never was able to reproduce the pop - it...

What would cause an intermittant pop when turning nearly full over left at low speed. It "feels" like it might be a strut. Would a strut make a pop when turning sometimes or could the steering rack be bad inside? I checked the ball joints and tie rod ends - no "play" and I lubed all grease...

That gives me an idea - I have both 19 & 24 # sample tubes on two 76mm C&L MAFs and 2 Mustangs - one with 19# injectors and one with 24#. I could try switching them around with each other to see if I get better fuel mileage by tricking the computer into going lean. Anybody have any experience...

check www.dynacorn.com and use ask joe parts to see when they will have one available - I have taken one out of a 1970 years ago since the car was considered a junker 20 years ago (people would restore it today) and sold it - lots of spot welds to be drilled and cut out.

Ditto on the 8" - it is plenty strong for up to 375 horsepower. You can get a locker or posi for it too.

Add the hood, engine accessories, radiator, fluids, etc... push down on it and bounce it about - it will settle down. If it is still high then it is a good time to re-drill the upper control arm mount holes 1 3/4 inch lower and use the negative camber wedge kit and the square eccentric kit from...

Put a mechanical guage on the oil pressure sending unit mount hole to see what is happening -- also - if your 1989 engine is a "roller" engine you have to use a steel distributer gear. Older non-roller engines have cast iron camshafts and run cast iron distributer gears - if you mix them you...

situation solved - fixed the rocker arm noise by tightening them - not nearly as noisy but stutter was still there - turns out the BRAND NEW WIRES were BAD! All is well now.

mine is orange with a round end that goes to a bolt on the back of the driver side cylinder head