hey guys i am thinking about buying a notchback so i can mess around with it and take it to the track 1 or 2 times a month. i will probly gut it except for the drivers seat and dash. how hard is it to get a notch into the 12's? what kind of engine mods is needed. should i keep the 5.0L displacement or buy a stroker kit? let me know what u think.
12 second notch?
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ram360
Founding Member
I would gut it, and put the money into suspension and some sticky tires. Would be cool to soo how far you could take it w/ a stock 302 and just bolt ons.
You can hit 12's with a stock longblock. Another recent poster just went high 11's with a 90-shot of juice, and he's running an AOD hatchback, stock H/C/I, with just basic bolt-ons (mostly suspension). So 12's are definitely within reach. I'd start focusing on building up the rear end with traction mods, gears (4.10's or 3.73's) and a pair of DR's, then work your way forward to the tranny (good clutch and shifter) and then a few little things on the front end (relocate battery to trunk, electric fan, A/C, smog, and P/S delete). Practice a lot on launches and shifting, and then beat the snot out of it at the track.
By taking it to the track once or twice a month, do you intend to drive it the rest of the month, or are we talking about a strictly weekend warrior/trailer queen kinda setup? Reason being, if you completely strip the interior, it's going to make it feel almost miserable to drive (especially in the summer) with no sound insulation or such - the heat and noise coming up through the floorboards makes it feel like you're in a motorized tin can - and you might miss that passenger's seat when you use it for day-to-day stuffs. Otherwise ... strip away!
By taking it to the track once or twice a month, do you intend to drive it the rest of the month, or are we talking about a strictly weekend warrior/trailer queen kinda setup? Reason being, if you completely strip the interior, it's going to make it feel almost miserable to drive (especially in the summer) with no sound insulation or such - the heat and noise coming up through the floorboards makes it feel like you're in a motorized tin can - and you might miss that passenger's seat when you use it for day-to-day stuffs. Otherwise ... strip away!
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rsw007
New Member
25thmustang
Mustang Master
Heres what I would do to have some fun...
Gutted notch, battery out back, no smog or AC, every bit of suspension set up right, 4.10s or 4.30s in a built rear, all the drivetrain stuff (clutch, shifter, DS, AL flywheel), stock motor, with long tubes, and free flowing exhaust, on a set of slicks and skinnies...
Im willing to bet, a light notch set up right on a stock speed density motor would go deep 12s! I have seen mid to high 12s on stock motors, and really think low 12s shouldnt be an issue!
Gutted notch, battery out back, no smog or AC, every bit of suspension set up right, 4.10s or 4.30s in a built rear, all the drivetrain stuff (clutch, shifter, DS, AL flywheel), stock motor, with long tubes, and free flowing exhaust, on a set of slicks and skinnies...
Im willing to bet, a light notch set up right on a stock speed density motor would go deep 12s! I have seen mid to high 12s on stock motors, and really think low 12s shouldnt be an issue!
Darkwriter77 said:You can hit 12's with a stock longblock. Another recent poster just went high 11's with a 90-shot of juice, and he's running an AOD hatchback, stock H/C/I, with just basic bolt-ons (mostly suspension). So 12's are definitely within reach. I'd start focusing on building up the rear end with traction mods, gears (4.10's or 3.73's) and a pair of DR's, then work your way forward to the tranny (good clutch and shifter) and then a few little things on the front end (relocate battery to trunk, electric fan, A/C, smog, and P/S delete). Practice a lot on launches and shifting, and then beat the snot out of it at the track.
By taking it to the track once or twice a month, do you intend to drive it the rest of the month, or are we talking about a strictly weekend warrior/trailer queen kinda setup? Reason being, if you completely strip the interior, it's going to make it feel almost miserable to drive (especially in the summer) with no sound insulation or such - the heat and noise coming up through the floorboards makes it feel like you're in a motorized tin can - and you might miss that passenger's seat when you use it for day-to-day stuffs. Otherwise ... strip away!
I agree. Technique is a huge part of it. Waaaaay back a friend of mine got a 1989 GT to run 12.99 with stock long block, including an unported stock intake.
I'll give you one way, but it is very difficult and will take a LOT of testing/tuning. Here in Winnipeg, two brothers own an '86 PI Mustang, completely gutted except for stock seats and the dash. It has full exhaust (unequal shorties), ET Drags on Centerlines (yes, the slicks), 50/50 shocks, some form of drag strut, 3.55s, 90 lbs. of sand in the trunk, no P/S or A/C and a completely stock engine (tb to pan). On opening day of our track, with ET Streets (the radial) and the sand they ran 13.2. On that day everyone ran about .3 seconds off their norm, so figure that to be about 12.9. Since the ET Drags went on (the car drives on the street with them), the car hooks far better, so I'd guess it's around 12.7 now. On the street it yanks the left front wheel...so just try to get a good stock engine combo to work. There is a way, but it will take a ton of work. If you got nitrous you could use the same recipe and go just as fast without all the trial & error.
SilverFox90
New Member
buddy of mine built the suspension of a 91 hatchback and 4.30 gears, and a stock motor other than explorer intake, TB, and longtubes and eliminated everything but the alt and waterpump on the motor and ran 8.30 1/8th mile times easily
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