99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Point is with a blower you'll have the power to satisfy you craving without breaking any seals in the engine.
300 rwhp.. blower or mild h/c/i
- Thread starter dstang01
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
i wouldnt classify all sti and evo owners as ricers. i had an sti for a good while as my daily driver with the mustang as a project car.
a good hci can beat most of the cars on the road, and like everyone else is saying a blower is more of a headache because you have to keep your ear to the ground at all times so you can be on the lookout for pinging and detonation....
I put down 278 at the tires for my trickflow setup on a stock tb and a crappy exhaust. I have to go back to the dyno with my tb and new exhaust. The 350 that tfs states is PROBABLY crank hp. You gotta realize that their going to put the best number they can out there and not mention little things... Its all marketing...
The 279.8 that I'm making at the tires is equivalent to 330 at the crank and I'm sure I picked up more with the tb setup and the exhaust and the shortbelt setup
OrangeMustangGt
Founding Member
why worried about breaking the seals on the engine? It is a good idea to replace all the gaskets anyway.
I am at the point of driveability, and IMO its really a more fun to drive with N/A power.....the only exception is a kenne bell....it has off idle torque like N/A
When your boosting a stock engine.....it gets to the point of saying.....lets roll the dice and see if im gonna blow a gasket today.....I know a good tune helps, but boosting 12 year old headgaskets is asking for trouble....it dosent take much. sure, mine lasted for a year but one point its gonna go.
Boost is fun, but like grady said it is very tempermental......gotta run good gas and have a real rich tune. Plus you will get better gas miledge N/A....
many of the reasons i went back to N/A
I am at the point of driveability, and IMO its really a more fun to drive with N/A power.....the only exception is a kenne bell....it has off idle torque like N/A
When your boosting a stock engine.....it gets to the point of saying.....lets roll the dice and see if im gonna blow a gasket today.....I know a good tune helps, but boosting 12 year old headgaskets is asking for trouble....it dosent take much. sure, mine lasted for a year but one point its gonna go.
Boost is fun, but like grady said it is very tempermental......gotta run good gas and have a real rich tune. Plus you will get better gas miledge N/A....
many of the reasons i went back to N/A
I guess I was trying to point out this kind of reasoning 
A typical stock OEM equipped stick Stang will put down about 180rwhp ...
No matter if you use mother nature or pump the air in with some help
You can't gain 120rwhp without some compromises here and there.
I certainly don't have all the answers
We all see things differently and what one sees as no big deal .....
Another will see the same thing as an insurmountable challenge
The more you Research
The better your Plan
The fewer Surprises you'll encounter
One thing that we can all agree on ...Its GREAT
To have all the options we have these days
Grady
A typical stock OEM equipped stick Stang will put down about 180rwhp ...
No matter if you use mother nature or pump the air in with some help
You can't gain 120rwhp without some compromises here and there.
I certainly don't have all the answers
We all see things differently and what one sees as no big deal .....
Another will see the same thing as an insurmountable challenge
The more you Research
The better your Plan
The fewer Surprises you'll encounter
One thing that we can all agree on ...Its GREAT
To have all the options we have these days
Grady
Thanks greenmustanggt, these are the two key points of an n/a setup I think are the most important. Sure the n/a wont make as much power as a blown engine, but it will have an awesome torque curve and will be less tempermental so I wont have to worry as much. Some people are even saying they are experiencing stock gas mileage with their mild h/c/i setup (which makes sense, because it is much more efficient than stock), this is a great bonus.
Say I was to get the trickflow top end kit (with supporting mods), will I have to run premium gas or could I continue running regular?
Black95GTS
Active Member
It's all about the tune. You shouldn't have a problem running regular. Actually, aluminum heads typically accept more timing.
Adam
The last thing id want to run into is detonation so Id run premium if I had to, but it would be easier on the wallet to run regular (good point about the aluminum heads, this is another pro over forced induction because a blower requires premium)
Just out of curiosity I want to try and price this setup out (assuming I go with the tfs here), Im not too familiar with the prices of 5.0 parts so maybe some of you could lend some knowledge :SNSign:
-Trickflow twisted wedge topend kit $2000
-Lifters (are they needed?) $100?
-Headers (shorties) $200
-Offroad H pipe $200
-Flowmaster American thunder $300
-Throttle body 200$
-Injectors $200
So this will most likely be a $3000+ undertaking.. is there anything on this list I dont need, or is there anything Ive left out? Also, this is assuming everything is new, Ill most likely buy some used parts too.
Just out of curiosity I want to try and price this setup out (assuming I go with the tfs here), Im not too familiar with the prices of 5.0 parts so maybe some of you could lend some knowledge :SNSign:
-Trickflow twisted wedge topend kit $2000
-Lifters (are they needed?) $100?
-Headers (shorties) $200
-Offroad H pipe $200
-Flowmaster American thunder $300
-Throttle body 200$
-Injectors $200
So this will most likely be a $3000+ undertaking.. is there anything on this list I dont need, or is there anything Ive left out? Also, this is assuming everything is new, Ill most likely buy some used parts too.
Since you listed both headers and mid pipe
I'd go for a bit stronger low/mid range torque and do LT's
If the money is tight ... Forget those flows ... V E R Y tiny gain
and
Put that money towards a maf or something that can really
make a difference or is of a higher priority of stuff needed.
Then again ... if its about sound ... thats your decision
Grady
Black95GTS
Active Member
Don't forget a tune or self tuning device. When you swap injectors and MAF, which you will have to do for this combo, you'll need to tune it somehow.
Adam
Adam
Sorry I forgot to include tune on my list, I definately have it in mind though. My dads friend races a 94 5.0, so I was going to ask him about where he goes for dyno tuning. Im also tempted to pick up a tweecer and learn how to self tune (I think Id enjoy it) but then if I could get a good deal on a dyno tune that might be the quickest easiest route.
Is a larger MAF necessary? I hear some people run these setups on stock injectors (im planning on getting 24#) is the larger MAF a must get? Also, is the stock fuel pump alright for this setup? How about the ignition?
About the flows, thats purely for sound. I will look into different brands for the catback before purchasing but I know flows sound good and are relatively cheap, thats why they are on my list right now. I heard the gain from shorties to long tubes isnt that big, and they cause ground clearance issues (especially when lowered) and are a pain to install. This is just what Ive read, if im wrong let me know.
With this setup, are 3.73's necessary or will the stock gears be adequate? Also, I want to upgrade the suspension eventually (this is a little off topic, but if you want to give some opinions that would be cool) I hear MM has alot of good stuff, Ill start with subframes (heck, I should probably get some before the h/c/i), where should I go from there? I dont need a road racing machine, but something that will take corners a little better and feel safer at speed.
Is a larger MAF necessary? I hear some people run these setups on stock injectors (im planning on getting 24#) is the larger MAF a must get? Also, is the stock fuel pump alright for this setup? How about the ignition?
About the flows, thats purely for sound. I will look into different brands for the catback before purchasing but I know flows sound good and are relatively cheap, thats why they are on my list right now. I heard the gain from shorties to long tubes isnt that big, and they cause ground clearance issues (especially when lowered) and are a pain to install. This is just what Ive read, if im wrong let me know.
With this setup, are 3.73's necessary or will the stock gears be adequate? Also, I want to upgrade the suspension eventually (this is a little off topic, but if you want to give some opinions that would be cool) I hear MM has alot of good stuff, Ill start with subframes (heck, I should probably get some before the h/c/i), where should I go from there? I dont need a road racing machine, but something that will take corners a little better and feel safer at speed.
Methodical
Active Member
Is this based on an AOD or 5 speed 'cause that's a lot of HP loss - 70hp (sheeesh)? My understanding is there is less Crank to RWHP loss with a 5 speed vs. an AOD. Correct if wrong.
350-280= 70
legalize420
Active Member
with my h/c/i n/a setup i made just under 300hp to the wheels and a bit over 300lb/ft. it was a set of gt40x heads, tfs stage 1 cam, and a gt40 tubular intake. the smaller valves and intake gave it an awesome torque curve and the mild cam kept driveability issues to a minimum. the gt40x heads are fairly inexpensive and so is the cam. to make everything affordable, you could go with the cobra intake over the gt40. it isnt as pretty looking, but gets the job done just as well.
Greg
Would you please post up the dyno pull of your sig combo when in NA form if you have that option
Grady
legalize420
Active Member
Greg
Would you please post up the dyno pull of your sig combo when in NA form if you have that option
Grady
this is from a local dyno day. 87 octane and 10* timing. the first two pulls were really lean so we turned up the pressure on the regulator. i should have some new numbers within a week or two. im going in for an hour so i will get some new n/a numbers and on the bottle. i am running 93 octane and 12* on the bottle so im sure i could go a bit higher n/a.
xkuntrycowboyx
Member
Injectors, i just got from Brothers performance for 24#ers they said $310 i found somewhere for $279, so they went $289 for me, and i bought other stuff
a lot of the injector prices in the magazines have gone up $100 i dunno why, but when i asked they said they print the mags 3 months in advance (thats why the have the disclamer *prices subject to change) - ha! jerks!
roller lifters are $120 on summit, but you wouldn't need them
mufflers, spintech - sportsman splitcase run $250 for the pair.
Go longtube headers... check the stangnet classifieds, someone may have some they'd be worth it and cheaper there than new. got my ceramic longtubes for $250 shipped and h pipe for $130 shipped
a lot of the injector prices in the magazines have gone up $100 i dunno why, but when i asked they said they print the mags 3 months in advance (thats why the have the disclamer *prices subject to change) - ha! jerks!
roller lifters are $120 on summit, but you wouldn't need them
mufflers, spintech - sportsman splitcase run $250 for the pair.
Go longtube headers... check the stangnet classifieds, someone may have some they'd be worth it and cheaper there than new. got my ceramic longtubes for $250 shipped and h pipe for $130 shipped
xkuntrycowboyx
Member
ps... im very happy with the grunt of my stang ... and i have a the gt-40 setup... heads and intake ... i guess i should get her to the dyno and see whats up. you can see in my sig
Similar threads
